Jump to content

Tommo

Member
  • Posts

    120
  • Joined

Everything posted by Tommo

  1. Plenty of water this morning on braunston flight. Ian
  2. Can’t see how that much water (inches!) could get past the diesel filler, but wouldn’t that end up in engine room area anyway. I would be more inclined to suspect a leak from the calorifier or plumbing. Ian
  3. Bigcol I came past you twice as i had to turn, nice and slow I hope and I acknowledged your good lady. Will be past again on Friday as well. Obviously we are not used to that depth of water. Ian
  4. Doesn't look like we are going anywhere soon Ian
  5. Its hidden under a litle blanking plug next to the USB port. Ian
  6. From Mastervolt Combi manual Ground relay The ground relay function allows you to connect the Neutral conductor (N) of the inverter output circuit to the Safety Ground (PE / GND) automatically when the Mass Combi is working as an inverter. With most electrical installations in the USA this ground relay must be set to ON. Refer to local regulations on this issue. If you want… DIP switch A SW8 no internal connection between the Neutral (N) and the Safety Ground (PE / GND) when the Mass Combi is working as an inverter OFF the Neutral wire (N) of the inverter output circuit connected to the Safety Ground (PE / GND) when the Mass Combi is working as an inverter and disconnected when incoming AC-power is applied (charger / transfer mode). ON So dip switch A number 8 should be on. Ian
  7. I got a Huawei mobile wifi unit and it seems to work very well. You need to make sure you get the right model with the aerial port (ie the 5332). These seem to be locked on the Orange network but are easy to get unlocked via Ebay. I use a “3” sim card and have found them quite good for coverage. I just buy a top up and convert it to a £10.00 for 1Gig of data which lasts a month or until you use it up. Regards aerial I have just ordered one from http://www.connextech.co.uk/ they appear to be very helpful. Ian
  8. Honeywell L641B 1012 Pipe Thermostat will be fine. Ian
  9. Yes, he was talking about the canal (The sight of all the empty pounds was a very sad thing to see) not the reservoirs. Ian
  10. Fram PH 20 is correct, there are plenty of other makes out there, I think I know most by now. Here we go then... Run engine for 5mins or so until warm. Turn off engine and remove the oil filler cap. Remove the little plug from the oil pump and turn on the valve. Pump out oil into suitable container (about 6 litres) I now like to now wait for about 5 more mins or so to let as much oil run from the filter as possible, then undo the filter with suitable wrench, try and stuff some rag below to catch the oil which will spill out when you undo it, keep the filter upright after you have removed it. Clean up the filter mounting and seal with some clean rag. Take the new filter and smear some clean oil on the rubber seal and screw on, tighten firmly by hand. Close valve on oil pump and refit plug. Refill with oil to dip stick top mark, use API CG-4 or CF-4 (you don’t need an expensive oil, I use Halfords basic diesel oil) Run engine, check for leaks, leave 5 mins then recheck oil level. Ian, fellow JD3 owner
  11. Never used this particular make, but I fairly sure that you will find you need 230V for the receiver, will that be a problem to you? Ian
  12. Thanks for all the replies, Tony, I forgot that I had a old switch mode 25amp bench power supply in my workshop, do you think it may do the job. It does just about get to 15.5V Yes, I am using flooded cells, 6 x 6 Volt 225Ah I installed them about nine months ago (to replace 3 new 220 Elecsols which just did not work for me) and so far they seem to be very good.
  13. Thanks Robin Sorry but I don’t quite understand that, my 3-stage charge is Bulk, Absorption, Float at 14.25 and 13.5 Volts respectively, (Mastervolt 12/2500/100 Combi with CSCP) I cannot alter the bulk/absorption voltage but I can vary the float slightly. When I charge via the alternator (Mastervolt 120 amp 3-stage) I have more control over the voltage and bulk/absorption is set to 14.5V at 20 degrees. I can even push the voltage to just above 15V but it is a bit of a fiddle to keep adjusting it. And by the way, nothing wrong with my cables. Regarding an equalization charge, I was under the impression it could help remove sulfate crystals that might have built up on the plates. And as you point out with 6V batteries it is probably a good idea. So the general consensus seems to be that yes it is a good idea. Next question is, can I get a charger just for equalization and if so what current is required? Ian
  14. Whilst we are talking chargers what is the consensus regarding equalizing? I only have 3 stage charging systems and can’t get to the required voltage of 15.5V (recommended by battery manufacturer). Is there anything out there I can use just for equalizing and what current would I need. Battery bank is 675Ah using 6 x 6 Volt. Thanks Ian
  15. Go and turn it off on the bollard, then reset the trip in the boat, then reset the bollard trip and see what happens. Ian
  16. No it's not all developed and yes you can still moor at the end! However you will find the basin is pretty well full up at this time of the year with winter moorers, however if you do come down, when you get to the basin just drift about in the middle for a minute, somebody will soon appear and help you. I will look out for you if I am around. Ian
  17. Anybody know what the story is regarding the several houses built between the pub and there but never occupied. Ian
  18. That’s quite right, 1kw is OK. Also the safety cutout in a domestic Immersion is set lower, if you run the hot water from the engine as well it will exceed the preset temperature and trip. Ian
  19. Difficult to say really, I am quite a heavy user of electric and they don’t seem to last like the old ones did, these are the new type and are sealed. I have checked them as best I can and there is not one duff and bringing the other two down. Yours if you want them, they are in Aylesbury at the moment. Ian
  20. Does anybody want 3 Elecsol 220 for free, they are about 10 months old. I just can’t seem to get on with them, I was very happy with the original ones and got over 5 years before 2 of the 3 died, but these new ones are not the same. I am removing them this weekend if anybody is interested and will keep them for a couple of weeks then take them to the local recycle dump. Ian
  21. Ok, I'll leave it where it is then.
  22. Interesting thread, I too have 3 Elecsol 220, which coming up 5 1/2 years old now. The one thing that I do find is that they are very thirsty and need frequent topping up. I have always kept the charging voltage around 14.4 or 14.5 volts (all with Mastervolt alternator and Combi setup) but I do charge at quite a high amperage, which I suspect is the reason for their thirst. I may now up the volts to 14.8 after reading this.! Ian
  23. The General Ecology unit is an excellent bit of kit. Ian
  24. That would be very similar to the John Deere which is 3 cylinder, 2.9litre, 1400 rpm max. Steve, I have got a Beta Tug if you still need any info. Ian
  25. Have you checked the small inline 2amp fuses.? Check you have power, 12V (or 24V) across terminals 1 & 2 in the panel. Ian
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.