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3 into 2 coils will it go


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Hi

Does anyone know if it is possible to run the boats engine cooling system a solid fuel stove with back boiler and a eberspacher hydronic D5W water heater to a twin coil calorifier.

I have a twin calorifier already fitted with the engine and boiler but what I would like to do is fit an eberspacher and have 2 connected to 1 coil a 1 to the other coil.

Thanks

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I assume the Eberspacher will be expected to heat the radiators so yes, the stove and Ebs. can feed the same coil as long as the Ebs is not plumbed as a sealed system (I have seen a few). Unless you go in for valves that can get forgotten you may lose some Ebs. heat through the stove and I would try to make the new connections in a way that discouraged stove heat from circulating directly through the Ebs. I am not sure how the Ebs. would take to boiling water temperatures if the stove ran away.

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Hi

Does anyone know if it is possible to run the boats engine cooling system a solid fuel stove with back boiler and a eberspacher hydronic D5W water heater to a twin coil calorifier.

I have a twin calorifier already fitted with the engine and boiler but what I would like to do is fit an eberspacher and have 2 connected to 1 coil a 1 to the other coil.

Thanks

I'm not sure about your particular 'combination'..but I did go through this when I wanted to utilise a coil twice for adding solar heating.

The main problems (as I see it) are levels and pressures.

My Eberspacher has a header tank...which needs to be much higher than the engine. Thus I can't 'cobble' the Ebber to the engine coil..as its header tank is higher..and the fluid would flow out of the top of the engine coolant tank.

The Eber and back boiler may be a 'goer'...

I have managed to run a pumped circuit within a pumped circuit for my solar system. I couldn't find much information on doing this...but it does seem to work fine.

This isn't in respect of utlising a coil twice....it is a different system...for 'stiring' water between two calorifier tanks.

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This is the single coil setup I worked out, been working ok for a few years now, we can preheat engine with Mikuni in the winter.

 

Engineplumbing.jpg

I was interested to see that you have a header tank and expansion tank on the same circuit..?..( or am I not seeing it correctly ? )

Does that not cause problems..?

I guess that answer is no...as you say its been working ?

 

bob

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This is the single coil setup I worked out, been working ok for a few years now, we can preheat engine with Mikuni in the winter.

 

Engineplumbing.jpg

 

Very interesting setup. I'm guessing the engine bypass valve is low pressure one which opens when the Mikuni pump overcomes pressure from engine water pump.

 

Please correct me if I'm wrong or explain otherwise.

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Does anyone know if it is possible to run the boats engine cooling system a solid fuel stove with back boiler and a eberspacher hydronic D5W water heater to a twin coil calorifier.

I have a twin calorifier already fitted with the engine and boiler but what I would like to do is fit an eberspacher and have 2 connected to 1 coil a 1 to the other coil.

 

Use a Non Return Valve on the cold side of each boiler before the pump, this will stop the other boiler acting as a radiator if only one boiler/pump is been used.

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I was interested to see that you have a header tank and expansion tank on the same circuit..?..( or am I not seeing it correctly ? )

Does that not cause problems..?

I guess that answer is no...as you say its been working ?

 

bob

 

Yes expansion and header on same circuit, runs unpressurized mainly because I didn't have a suitable tank and also didn't want very hot water under pressure in radiators, not necessary just my choice.

 

Very interesting setup. I'm guessing the engine bypass valve is low pressure one which opens when the Mikuni pump overcomes pressure from engine water pump.

 

Please correct me if I'm wrong or explain otherwise.

 

Bypass valve is manual, if we want engine preheat, valve is positioned to divert hot Mikuni coolant through engine then returned to original position when engine is started, engine them carries on circulating coolant with assistance of Mikuni pump. When coolant reaches a certain temp Mikuni cuts out leaving it's pump running, if Mikuni isn't used for preheat then engine coolant pump does the circulating.

 

One drawback is the engine takes longer to warm up as it is circulating coolant through calorifier and/or rads + Mikuni though valves can be set so that engine is isolated from Mikuni and rads but coolant can still circulate as normal.

 

As in previous post we run it un-pressurized but that is just my choice.

Edited by nb Innisfree
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Very interesting setup. I'm guessing the engine bypass valve is low pressure one which opens when the Mikuni pump overcomes pressure from engine water pump.

 

Please correct me if I'm wrong or explain otherwise.

 

Bypass valve is manual, if we want engine preheat, valve is positioned to divert hot Mikuni coolant through engine then returned to original position when engine is started, engine them carries on circulating coolant with assistance of Mikuni pump. When coolant reaches a certain temp Mikuni cuts out leaving it's pump running, if Mikuni isn't used for preheat then engine coolant pump does the circulating.

 

One drawback is the engine takes longer to warm up as it is circulating coolant through calorifier and/or rads + Mikuni though valves can be set so that engine is isolated from Mikuni and rads but coolant can still circulate as normal.

 

As in previous post we run it un-pressurized but that is just my choice.

 

Slight misunderstanding - I was referring to what you label as bypass valve not the item you describe above which you label as divert valve ;)

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Slight misunderstanding - I was referring to what you label as bypass valve not the item you describe above which you label as divert valve ;)

 

Sorry, valve terminology malfunction!

 

All valves are manual, if diverter valve is set to direct coolant away from engine then bypass valve can be opened and isolating valve closed which will isolate the engine from the CH circuit allowing engine and CH to work independantly. Advantages are either can be worked on while the other runs as normal + engine will reach operating temp quicker if Mikuni isn't used to preheat it. Having said that engine warms up quite quickly in the summer but in very cold weather we either preheat it (doesn't need glow plugs - engine then reaches operating temp in a just a few minutes) or isolate it and let it warm up as normal.

 

Preheating engine is very nice in the depths of winter, much kinder to all those parts whirling around.

Edited by nb Innisfree
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Sorry, valve terminology malfunction!

 

All valves are manual, if diverter valve is set to direct coolant away from engine then bypass valve can be opened and isolating valve closed which will isolate the engine from the CH circuit allowing engine and CH to work independantly. Advantages are either can be worked on while the other runs as normal + engine will reach operating temp quicker if Mikuni isn't used to preheat it. Having said that engine warms up quite quickly in the summer but in very cold weather we either preheat it (doesn't need glow plugs - engine then reaches operating temp in a just a few minutes) or isolate it and let it warm up as normal.

 

Preheating engine is very nice in the depths of winter, much kinder to all those parts whirling around.

 

Thanks for that. I was hoping to use a manual bypass valve in engine calorfier (thermostat bypass) circuit as well but with twin coil calorifier.

 

By deliberately engineering thermo-syphon effect into the engine cooling system, I could choose quick warm up after engine start or pre-start warm up via Mikuni or immersion from calorifier when bypass valve closed.

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