Want another laugh?

[Moley]

OK, you’ve all had a laugh at my injin’ole, but you ain’t seen my ‘lectrics yet

 

I'm fine with mains, have worked out my 12v supplies, but automotive electrics baffle me a bit, so what do you make of this lot then: I took these pics for my own reference before I started disconnecting anything. The ceramic fuses and choc-block are coming out! My instrument panel is probably about as basic as they get, and I’ve reversed the first image to make it easier to compare with No.2

 

 

 

Light green wire: Fused +ve to voltmeter via on/off switch

Dark green wire: Switced +ve to headlight

Orange wire: Fused +ve to horn puhbutton. Yellow wire: +ve to horn.

White/red stripe: Fused +ve to bilge pump via push switch

All black wires to -ve bus bar.

Surely the +ve bus bar will need a thicker red?

Note two red wires bottom left: these were disconnected and taped up (separately). They are not positive, I have not yet traced the other end (this means braving the injin’ole where all wires are black).

One of these seems the right length to connect to ammeter left connection. What's your best guess? Why were they disconnected?

 

Ignition switch close-up:

11 o’clock: Battery +ve via ammeter (which only has one connection!?)

2 o’clock: Switched +ve (key position 1)

6 o’clock: Switched +ve (key position 2) - glow plugs?

9 o’clock: Switched +ve (key position 3) - starter motor?

 

Good innit? Comments invited.

[Bones]

it looks nice and tidy...................... I was drooling over your instrument panel until I realised you had reversed it yourself...

Edited March 20, 2006 by Bones

[Alistair]

Note two red wires bottom left: these were disconnected and taped up (separately). They are not positive, I have not yet traced the other end (this means braving the injin’ole where all wires are black).

One of these seems the right length to connect to ammeter left connection. What's your best guess? Why were they disconnected?

 

Looks like the ammeter might have packed up, hence it was disconnected. Or am I missing something?

[John Orentas]

Hi Moley.

 

Well you have pretty much done it yourself. The trick is to eliminate the easy/obvious wires first, then the others will get easier with fewer options.

 

Don't be surprised to find that the 'oil' & 'charge' warning lamps have a pos. common wire.

 

I would dump those ceramic fuses they will give problems, replace with 0.25", spade types, circuit breakers or I prefer industrial cartridge fuses.

 

Try to have more logical colours, make sure the sizes are OK and most important make a circuit drawing of it, you may need to find a fault or make modifications in 5 years time.

 

P s. Have you worked out what the spare button below the Nav. Light is for.

[stuart]

Hey, at least you have temperature, voltage and current measurement!

 

Just got a rev counter & hour meter on LivBoats - couldnt afford the "luxury" pack with the posh meters in them!!

 

With a lot of the wiring you have there, I'd be very tempted to strip the panel back to basics. You dont actually need any of the meters to get the engine started, so strip back to basics, get the engine/glow plugs working then add the gauges as you see fit.

Edited March 20, 2006 by stuart

[Guest]

Hey, at least you have temperature, voltage and current measurement!

 

Just got a rev counter & hour meter on LivBoats - couldnt afford the "luxury" pack with the posh meters in them!!

 

With a lot of the wiring you have there, I'd be very tempted to strip the panel back to basics. You dont actually need any of the meters to get the engine started, so strip back to basics, get the engine/glow plugs working then add the gauges as you see fit.

That is pretty much what we did on our previous boat. Believe me I have seen much worse than that.

[John Orentas]

I posted some info on low cost rev-counters a few months ago. They didn't need a connection to the alternator. It was included in a catalogue of some kind but can't for the life of me remember any more.

[alan_fincher]

I agree with some of the others....

 

The panel looks surprisingly comprehensive for a Calcutt marinisation of the BMC Engine.

 

We have the 1.8 engine, but LESS on the panel.

 

If I had to guess, then I'd say that yours may have been modded to add extra bits, particularly as it's ended up with a non symmetrical layout.

 

On ours the ammeter is where you have a voltmeter, and there is nothing (but plastic) where your ammeter is.

 

We also have nowt where you have the switch that is in the light green wire to the voltmeter.

 

The one instrument there that I'm sure is original is the ammeter, but I think it's been relocated, and the voltmeter added later where it once was, (along with that extra switch).

 

As Alistair says, maybe the ammeter simply packed up, so has been wired out of circuit ? Should be easy to establish if it's working - take it out, and temporarily wire it in series with something like a headlight bulb across a battery.

 

I know you are a man who likes to do things the thrifty way, (why not!), but in case anyone is wondering,.....

 

Calcutt will supply a complete replacement "deluxe" panel, complete with the engine loom. This features... Temp gauge, Oil Pressure gauge, Tacho with Hour Meter, plus Ammeter & Voltmeter, (or alternatively 2 voltmeters, no ammeter), plus all switches and lwarning ights you currently have.

 

But with a price tag of over £350, I decided that if I do go for improved instrumentation in the future, I'm likely to add it piecemeal, which is what I thinks been done to yours.....

 

Do some of the holes in the panel look like they are cut after it was first made ?

 

Alan

[Yamanx]

I dream of electrics like that.

 

1 They're dry, a good start, and not covered in oil.

2 Most of the wires appear connected, instead of only about half with the rest just dangling.

3 Colours are consistant, red earth, black live depending on god alone knows what. No wires change colour whilst out of sight.

4 Fuses! Wow!

5 No house hold twin and earth (Using the earth one as live)

6 None appear to be melted or actually burnt.

7 Connectors have been used and not just twisted together without any insulation, by someone with very oily hands???

 

Oh! How I dream of electrics like that.

[Moley]

The trick is to eliminate the easy/obvious wires first, then the others will get easier with fewer options. Am doing

Don't be surprised to find that the 'oil' & 'charge' warning lamps have a pos. common wire. They do

I would dump those ceramic fuses, replace with spade types They've already gone, but is there any easy way to bus one side of a fuse box together?

Have you worked out what the spare button below the Nav. Light is for. It's a pull/push on/off switch for the voltmeter

 

Hey, at least you have temperature, voltage and current measurement! Just got a rev counter & hour meter on LivBoats I've got neither of them

I'd be very tempted to strip the panel back to basics. Am doing

 

As Alistair says, maybe the ammeter simply packed up, so has been wired out of circuit ? Should be easy to establish if it's working - take it out, and temporarily wire it in series with something like a headlight bulb across a battery. Thanks for that

I know you are a man who likes to do things the thrifty way Careful, but not penny-pinching, budget's not huge though

 

I dream of electrics like that.

1 They're dry, and not covered in oil. Not this end

2 Most of the wires appear connected Some were quite loose

3 Colours are consistent ... No wires change colour whilst out of sight. Surprising, but true

4 Fuses! Wow! Nasty continental cartridge types, they're out!

5 No household twin and earth No

6 None appear to be melted or actually burnt. No

7 Connectors have been used and not just twisted together without any insulation, by someone with very oily hands??? Oh, they were. Previous owner also liked crocodile clips, twist an end together, add a croc-clip and tape the whole thing up

[Bones]

sounds strangely like mine... did calcutt do yours?

[Moley]

sounds strangely like mine... did calcutt do yours?

Originally, but Lord knows who's added to, modified or codged since

[stuart]

I would dump those ceramic fuses, replace with spade types They've already gone, but is there any easy way to bus one side of a fuse box together?

 

Yes there is!

 

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/8-SLOT-BLADE-STYLE-F...1QQcmdZViewItem

[alan_fincher]

For comparison, here's my panel, that I don't think has been got at.....

 

Front.....

 

 

And the back....

 

Certain wires, such as that from bilge pump to bilge pump switch have been disconnected, to allow the panel to swing to get a photo.

 

 

Surprisingly uncomplicated, when I compare it to some of the pictures in magazines where the boat has all the gizmos!.....

[Moley]

Thanks Alan, that's neat and simple.

 

Stuart: That's what I've got, 8-way fuse holder, i.e. 8 'In' terminals and 8 'Out' terminals

 

 

but my question was, how do you bus together the 8 'In's, other than looping from one to the next? If you solder a wire across, you're left with 7 exposed +ve terminals.

[David Schweizer]

 

I would dump those ceramic fuses they will give problems......

 

 

What problems are they likely to cause John? I have all ceramic fuses on my boat, I can see the potential for corrosion but in the last nine years I have not had any problems. The only difference on my fuse box to the one illustated, is that mine has a sealable cover, perhaps that makes a difference isolating them from the atmosphere.

[John Orentas]

What I would do, make a simple bracket from insultating material, 'Tufnel' is good to take a single 5mm stud, and locate it close to the 8 way fuse holder. Eight conductors 1.5mm with crimped 0.25" receptacles at one end and 5mm eyelets at the other all connecting the stud.

 

A 4mm or 6mm cable from the isolator to connect to eight links. Don't worry too much about exposed 12 volt 'lives' you can always fix a shroud over it later.

[stuart]

What I would do, make a simple bracket from insultating material, 'Tufnel' is good to take a single 5mm stud, and locate it close to the 8 way fuse holder. Eight conductors 1.5mm with crimped 0.25" receptacles at one end and 5mm eyelets at the other all connecting the stud.

 

A 4mm or 6mm cable from the isolator to connect to eight links. Don't worry too much about exposed 12 volt 'lives' you can always fix a shroud over it later.

 

Could you manage to drill a hole through all the connectors on one side and run a bolt and lots of nuts through it? Tighten 2 nuts either side of each connector and then a 6mm cable bolted to the end ?

[Moley]

Could you manage to drill a hole through all the connectors on one side and run a bolt and lots of nuts through it?

I don't think the terminals are wide enough (only 6.3mm) or strong enough.

 

I've got plenty of insulated connectors, John's idea sounds easier, thanks.

[Cafnod]

How about this

 

http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/V...hoto/192045.jpg

 

For some reason I am unable to paste pictures or diagrams, can anyone tell me why please.

 

On the subject of fuse boxes I am looking for one that has screw terminals for ring connectors on the feed side and male terminals (for crimps) on the outlet side, ideally blade but anything will do.

 

Does anyone know of a supplier for large stud terminals or tufnell please.

[Supermalc]

Well I certainly won't laugh at yours. Wait til you see mine.

 

Ok, just to remind folk, I did not get a boat to BUY WORK, I've plenty looking after my house and car thanks. However, and this is where I get shot down, I've now done loads of work on my boat. Although to be fair much of it has been for amusement, like making the stove, and secure metal door.

 

The other work, like fitting props etc. making a new propshaft, and repairing engine was of course absolutely necessary, and luckily I was fit enough, and experienced enough to do it myself, otherwise it would have cost another £3g, which I definately aint got.....struggling for 3 quid boating money at the minute.

 

So, it would have been easier to totally rewire, however, as I'm worn out through doing things properly, and to be honest, a bit fed up, I decided to just do what didn't work.

 

Now, they are very simple. There is only a cabin light, roof spotlight, 3 nav lights and a radio. A bilge pump, and I've fitted another on a manual switch.

 

Just so you know what I inherited, the oil light switch didn't work, and that, together with the overheat alarm switch was wired to THE UNUSED SPEAKER WIRES on the car radio fitted

 

Anyway, by using one colour for all the rewiring I've done, plus a few bits from my box of reclaimed car wire, I've added to the 'character' of my boat

 

I've found this picture, but now it is actually WORSE. I fitted the new ignition switch with warning lights, that I inherited with another boat, and have since added the VHF radio, CB radio to the fishfinder supply circuit.

 

[Moley]

How about this

 

 

For some reason I am unable to paste pictures or diagrams, can anyone tell me why please.

 

If you copy the address of the picture and paste it into your posting, you need to add the [ IMG] and [/ IMG] tags at each end (but without the spaces).

Yours would read: [img ]http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.co.uk/VWPweb2000/fuse-1/photo/192045.jpg[/img ][/color]

 

On the subject of fuse boxes I am looking for one that has screw terminals for ring connectors on the feed side and male terminals (for crimps) on the outlet side, ideally blade but anything will do.

 

Does anyone know of a supplier for large stud terminals or tufnell please.

 

That stuff's for bussing together choc-block connectors, no use with what I'm fitting unfortunately.

 

Sorry, can't help with your question either.

[Cafnod]

According to vwp it is for bussing together fuse boxes, they state this in their catalogue, although they do not state what ampage it carries. Perhaps email them?

Edited March 21, 2006 by Cafnod

[John Orentas]

 

 

 

I've found this picture, but now it is actually WORSE. I fitted the new ignition switch with warning lights, that I inherited with another boat, and have since added the VHF radio, CB radio to the fishfinder supply circuit.

 

 

 

 

Malc.

 

I don't like to be rude but there is no excuse for scruffy wiring, use old wire by all means but remove all redundant wiring of long forgotten equipment. Choc blocks are rubish on flexible conductors use crimp connectors, bus bars can be easily made from scrap strips of brass or copper. Ty-rap everything up and keep an up to date ciruit drawing.

[Moley]

Choc blocks are rubish on flexible conductors, use crimp connectors.

John, please clarify this statement.

 

For my main wiring runs (lighting etc.) I am taking an unbroken run of cable pairs from my 12v board, sliding pairs of chocblock along to appropriate places, stripping half an inch or thereabouts of insulation without cutting the wire, and sliding in the same length of exposed conductor from my lighting tails such that both screws grip both wires, if you understand me. Any problem with that?