Engine Room Build

[Bones]

My engine room has a calorifier on a shelf, and engine on the floor and has 127cm from the outside to inside door. This weekend I am going to case in the engine and put in a floor/steps. The outcome will be gorgeous (optomism is my forte on this matter).

 

I thought I would build a 2x2 frame around the engine lines with ply to box the engine in. Does this sound reasonable and will the wood catch fire?

 

I don't have any angle iron supports, and no sensible floor support welds.

 

If anyone has any photos showing their engine rooms etc I would love to see them so I have a clearer idea of what I am actually aiming for!

 

All ideas/suggestions advise welcome

 

Its a trad keel cooled.

Edited March 1, 2006 by Bones

[John Orentas]

Any kind of framework will get in the way of engine access. I have built a very similar enclosure from 12mm plywood. Four sides and a top; A bit hard to describe without drawings but imagine 3 of the four sides located into 16mm brass channel section fixed to the engine beds. Brass 1" x 1" angle at each vertical intersection and fixed to one panel leaving a 13mm recess for the adjoining one to fit into.

 

The whole thing is held together by the top cover, same angle on all sides leaving that 13mm gap into which the sides slot into. The enclosure is very firm and stable but can be pulled apart without tools in one minute.

 

All inside faces covered with rubber (pyramid) underlay.

 

With few exceptions no part of your engine will ever exceed 100 deg C. Just use initiative around the exhaust.

Edited March 1, 2006 by John Orentas

[Bones]

Any kind of framework will get in the way of engine access. I have built a very similar enclosure from 12mm plywood. Four sides and a top; A bit hard to describe without drawings but imagine 3 of the four sides located into 16mm brass channel section fixed to the engine beds. Brass 1" x 1" angle at each vertical intersection and fixed to one panel leaving a 13mm recess for the adjoining one to fit into.

 

The whole thing is held together by the top cover, same angle on all sides leaving that 13mm gap into which the sides slot into. The enclosure is very firm and stable but can be pulled apart without tools in one minute.

 

All inside faces covered with rubber (pyramid) underlay.

 

With few exceptions no part of your engine will ever exceed 100 deg C. Just use initiative around the exhaust.

 

thank you - very helpful. I will have to improvise on the brass channel section, but I think I get the gist.

[DHutch]

Just use initiative around the exhaust.

Or something heatresitant/flameretardent.

 

 

Also john, did you put any provision in engine ventilation, and/or alterntor cooling, etc.

 

 

 

Daniel

[charles123]

Bones

 

I built mine as you describe with 2"x2" frames and 12mm ply.

see site

 

http://tuglyranarrowboatcharles.blogspot.com/

 

I started with two "H" frames to go one each side of the engine which stand on the bottom plate (dry bilge) then just build up the frame as you go along, it takes a while to get the idea clear in your mind especially when you are having to build in a step. I used 35mm "hinged lids" directly above the engine and the rear step for access. The whole thing is rock solid but I doubt the engine would come out with having to do some dismantling

 

Charles

[Bones]

Bones

 

I built mine as you describe with 2"x2" frames and 12mm ply.

see site

 

http://tuglyranarrowboatcharles.blogspot.com/

 

I started with two "H" frames to go one each side of the engine which stand on the bottom plate (dry bilge) then just build up the frame as you go along, it takes a while to get the idea clear in your mind especially when you are having to build in a step. I used 35mm "hinged lids" directly above the engine and the rear step for access. The whole thing is rock solid but I doubt the engine would come out with having to do some dismantling

 

Charles

 

perfect - thank you both!

[charles123]

perfect - thank you both!

 

another photo might help

 

[Baron & Mrs Boater]

I am also interested in this, as I have to rebuild my engine box very soon - having had it apart to have the recon engine fitted, is now vibrating like the devil !

 

I could just rebuild it as is, but I would like to improve it, so that I have better access to the engine - so as many photos as you have would be really helpful !

 

The existing one is lined in what looks like foil faced foam - any ideas where this can be bought from ?

[alan_fincher]

The existing one is lined in what looks like foil faced foam - any ideas where this can be bought from ?

 

There's been a lot on the forum already about the specialised sond insulation with a mix of foam and membrane layers, and a silver coating on top.....

 

Try for example the latter bit of this thread.....

 

Link to previous topic...

 

where sources are discussed.

Edited March 1, 2006 by alan_fincher

[TeeELL]

Hi Baron,

I bought my 'foil faced sound proofing' from Midland Chandlers at Penkridge. They have 2 types with and without a self adhesive finish. S'not cheap though!

[Moley]

I bought mine from Midland Chandlers .... S'not cheap though!

Is anything ?

 

---------------------------------------------

edit:

I meant from MC

Edited March 2, 2006 by Moley

[alan_fincher]

Is anything ?

Helpful advice on this forum ?

 

Your mooring charge for the last few months ?

 

[Bones]

Thank you all for your advise! I had a GREAT time on the boat sawing up various pieces of wood and designing my engine room - it has come along a treat! It actually looks quite good. Of course, as I have mentioned before my DIY isn't up the idzzy heights of professional/amateur, but it certainly works for me! the flooring is 2 tiered and although sturdy and unshakeable it dismantles in seconds - thanks to a few designer tips. Of course, I haven't finished it - but with the insulation next, and a good tidy up it looks great. Even without the sides on I can clamber around the back of the engine without too much trouble. All I need to do now is decide where to put the insulation - I have it at the front, top and sides, but not sure about the back.

 

It did get a bit exciting yesteday afternoon: I was moving some wires around and one wrong move surrounded me with a lovely firework display. No damage thankfully! I am very delighted and find engine room building most proud making

[Paul Evans]

Well done but where are the piccies?

[Bones]

Well done but where are the piccies?

 

 

good point! But you have to promise not to laugh!!!!

[alan_fincher]

good point! But you have to promise not to laugh!!!!

I doubt we will.....

 

Ours was allegedly done by professional fitters, but currently lacks any sophistication at all. I get the impression many "amateur" jobs have a lot more thought go in to them, and often end up much better as a result.

 

I'm carefully watching all ideas on this kind of thread, as refitting some of our engine room is a likely future task, (though perhaps not higherst priority).

 

I'm also still wresting with how I can move control panel and throttle/gear lever around subtly, to give the latter a more user friendly position, and to avoid problems where the vulnerable ignition switch can easily get accidentally switched off by the steerer.

 

Yep, lets see some pics, plaese Bones...

 

Alan

[Paul Evans]

But you have to promise not to laugh!!!!

I promise - honest

[Bones]

 

Well, that is the engine room so far. I will take more pictures later. This one shows the basic frame. If only I had taken a picture before I started.

[ChrisPy]

 

Well, that is the engine room so far. I will take more pictures later. This one shows the basic frame. If only I had taken a picture before I started.

this one? ....... which one? .... or is it just me.

 

strange how the photobucket link comes up when I draft a reply but I can't see it in the thread as posted.

[charles123]

this one? ....... which one? .... or is it just me.

 

strange how the photobucket link comes up when I draft a reply but I can't see it in the thread as posted.

 

The picture is there. The job is coming on, I would put a 2x2 piece between the uprights at the front of the top step to give the step more strength

[Bones]

The picture is there. The job is coming on, I would put a 2x2 piece between the uprights at the front of the top step to give the step more strength

 

 

OK I will do that - thanks for the tip!

[tommyleyland]

Do you have a picture of the finished product? I'm aware this is 10 years later!