Servicing 'The Dog House'

[Guest]

Our last service was carried out for us but I would like now to undertake the one due now and in the future myself.

 

By my reckoning the following is due-

 

Change engine oil (Isuzu 42) - it has an oil extraction pump so I am comfortable with getting the oil out.

 

Change engine oil filter,

 

Change diesel filter - what type though?

 

Change gearbox oil - how though? and from where?

 

Check alternator/water pump drive belts tension and condition.

 

Anything I've missed?

 

Cheers all.

 

eta - what is the engine and gearbox oil spec and type ???

Edited April 18, 2011 by MJG

[Chalky]

Our last service was carried out for us but I would like now to undertake the one due now and in the future myself.

 

By my reckoning the following is due-

 

Change engine oil (Isuzu 42) - it has an oil extraction pump so I am comfortable with getting the oil out.

 

Change engine oil filter,

 

Change diesel filter - what type though?

 

Change gearbox oil - how though? and from where?

 

Check alternator/water pump drive belts tension and condition.

 

Anything I've missed?

 

Cheers all.

 

eta - what is the engine and gearbox oil spec and type ???

I service my isuzu 4LB33 and PRM120 myself and it's quite easy.

 

Engine oil and filter - not major as you know.

 

There are 2 diesel filters a fine one and one in the water separator. I removed them and took them into Tooleys last time SWMBO went shopping in Banbury. They identified them and had replacements in stock.

 

I've got a device a bit like a bladder syringe (came from Machine Mart) that I use to change the oil in the gearbox (PRM120). It fits down the filler / dipstick hole in the top of the box and I suck the oil out with it. Oil is standard 20/50. The filler plug is 18mm AF which is not a size you normally find in a socket set. B&Q sell the correct size spanner.

 

Only thing you may need to change is the air filter if your engines got one.

 

Check all of the bolts on the prop shaft. Last service I found a couple were loose.

 

Check the flexible fuel lines.

 

There's a requirement to check the valve clearances, but I've never done it. From the handbook it looks a bit like the timing gear on a B series.

Edited April 18, 2011 by Chalky

[DickBrowne]

I'd also check the level of water in the batteries, if they are the maintainable type, and the strength of the anti-freeze. If you don't know when the AF was last changed, change it. The ability to stop water turning to ice will last for years, but the anti-corrosion properties will reduce far more quickly.

 

Do you have a sedimenter and agglomerator? They will need some attention if you have them, either cleaning or replacing.

 

If you can, drain water from your diesel tank as well.

 

Finally, drive belt condition and tension - splits, cracks, loss of teeth etc, and check how deeply they sit in the pulleys - you should be able to see daylight between the bottom of the belt and the pulley, otherwise replace it.

 

Oh, check the throttle and gear cables, grease the ends as they attach to the morse control.

 

Give the boat a wash, or think "that'll do", open a beer and admire the pile of parts you've collected

[Chris-B]

Isuzu fuel and oil filters are stock items and I can post for next day delivery

If you pay by debit card you would get a cwdf 10% discount

Otherwise most major chandleries stock them if you want to pay and collect

Valve settings I can. Post tomorrow if required

The isuzu is nearly as easy as a lister canalstar to service

If you want to talk through it give me a ring on the works phone daytime

Chris

[Bigmac]

I don't confess to being mechanically minded at all, but have decided to do my own this time around and it's also an Isuzu 42 with a PRM 150 gearbox. I found it to be pretty simple (and rewarding).

 

As you say the oil extraction is made easy with the pump. The filter is a simple cartridge type. I was left new Isuzu cartridge filters by the previous owner, but am sure MIdland Chandlers will have the right patterns if you ask. The Isuzu part numbers are 44567412 for the oil filter and 71725491 for the fuel filter.

 

The water seperator is definitely in stock at Midland Chandlers at Mercia as I got mine from there. Fram Filter 1191PL (about £3.50). A tip I was given (and others please correct me if I'm wrong) is to leave the old rubber seals in place as they are awkward (you get a pack of 4 with the filter). Just replace the cartridge. Unscrew the top nut (7/16th) and drop the cartridge out and replace leaving the old seals in place.

 

Gearbox oil I didn't do as it was done last service by the old owners, but you use the same oil as the engine - 15/40 grade.

 

Air filter is so simple - just unclick the housing and replace by dropping a new one in if you feels it needs it.

 

Any probs give me a shout - I'm only 10 mins up the road in Derby. Our boat is in the dry dock at Mercia being blacked as we speak - keep an eye out for us on Friday when we pick her up !!!

[Guest]

Isuzu fuel and oil filters are stock items and I can post for next day delivery

If you pay by debit card you would get a cwdf 10% discount

Otherwise most major chandleries stock them if you want to pay and collect

Valve settings I can. Post tomorrow if required

The isuzu is nearly as easy as a lister canalstar to service

If you want to talk through it give me a ring on the works phone daytime

Chris

 

Thanks Chris, I'll be in touch for the bits.

[Chris-B]

I don't confess to being mechanically minded at all, but have decided to do my own this time around and it's also an Isuzu 42 with a PRM 150 gearbox. I found it to be pretty simple (and rewarding).

 

As you say the oil extraction is made easy with the pump. The filter is a simple cartridge type. I was left new Isuzu cartridge filters by the previous owner, but am sure MIdland Chandlers will have the right patterns if you ask. The Isuzu part numbers are 44567412 for the oil filter and 71725491 for the fuel filter.

 

The water seperator is definitely in stock at Midland Chandlers at Mercia as I got mine from there. Fram Filter 1191PL (about £3.50). A tip I was given (and others please correct me if I'm wrong) is to leave the old rubber seals in place as they are awkward (you get a pack of 4 with the filter). Just replace the cartridge. Unscrew the top nut (7/16th) and drop the cartridge out and replace leaving the old seals in place.

 

Gearbox oil I didn't do as it was done last service by the old owners, but you use the same oil as the engine - 15/40 grade.

 

Air filter is so simple - just unclick the housing and replace by dropping a new one in if you feels it needs it.

 

Any probs give me a shout - I'm only 10 mins up the road in Derby. Our boat is in the dry dock at Mercia being blacked as we speak - keep an eye out for us on Friday when we pick her up !!!

 

Always change the rubber seals on the cav type pre filters

They compress and leak when refitting

Simple to change and saves lots of muttering

Oh and the filter numbers are preceded by 89

 

Chris

Isuzu parts anorak ))

[Guest]

Any probs give me a shout - I'm only 10 mins up the road in Derby. Our boat is in the dry dock at Mercia being blacked as we speak - keep an eye out for us on Friday when we pick her up !!!

 

Many thanks...

[weeble]

How about bleeding the engine?

[DickBrowne]

Oh yes, always remove the filter seals, they tend to either leak or undo themselves if you leave the old one in place, or even don't notice it and put the new one on top of the old...

 

As for bleeding the engine - do you mean oil or diesel? you can't bleed (or prime) the oil as the filter will be horizontal. The diesel may be self bleeding (check the path of the bleed-off pipework, and see if there's an electric pump). The manual method normally utilises a small handle on the lift pump (the first pump on the diesel circuit on the engine itself). This should just require some pumping, but some engines have a bleed screw on the top of the lift pump, slacken this and pump until diesel without air in it comes out, then tighten it and slacken off one of the injector feed pipes, pump a little more and tighten when diesel comes out. Your engine should then start, officially you're meant to bleed all the injectors, but I've never needed to.

[Guest]

Cheers for all the help/advice.

 

Filters and seals ordered from Chris, due to arrive tomorrow so should be getting my hands dirty over Easter weekend...

[Naughty Cal]

Good luck with the service. It is nice to be able to do your own work on your own boat. You feel an enormous sense of well being when it is all up and running again.

 

Of course you only have yourself to blame when something isnt quite right though

[Guest]

Sorry folks one last (daft) question - I take it you fill the PRM 150 through the dipstick hole - ???

 

I've been looking at the on line owners manual and various other bits and pieces on t'internet and it isn't clear, nor is it that there is a specific hole to fill it through.

[LoneWolf]

yes you do. I also use a pump to suck most of the old stuff out by the dipstick hole then just open the drain hole underneath to get the last bit. Its easier that way cos I cant easily get a big container underneath to hold all the old oil

 

There's a good thread on changing the gearbox oil somewhere in maintenance - it may even be called PRM150

 

 

One thing that occurred to me is are you sure you need to be doing all the servicing now?

Do you know what was done at the last service & how many hours ago it was?

Your engine booklet will advise on service hours but oil (and oil filter) changes are done more frequently than Diesel filter changes for example. In my engines case 250 hrs for oil & 600 for fuel.

 

Of course it wont do any harm changing filters before they need it but just a thought

[Guest]

Thanks for confirming.

 

I have after a chat with Chris (baldock) earlier today bought a PELA extraction pump on eBay.

 

As to frequency of filter changes I just think like you there is no harm in changing sooner than needed. They are also not that expensive.

[Guest]

Thanks for the efficient delivery Chris - my bits have just arrived as promised..

[J R]

Thanks for the efficient delivery Chris - my bits have just arrived as promised..

 

Good advice given above.

 

Suggest you run the engine for 10 minutes before the oil changes as it will make extraction of said lubricant easier as well as the oil and ieisel filters. If you are using a Pela type extractor for the PRM you will not get out all the oil, so don't refill with the amount stated in the paperwork or else you will blow the back plate off the gear box which makes an very expensive bang. From memory you don't have any gradation on the PRM dipstick. Correct fill level is a quarter of the length of the stick. Difficult to see with new oil. There is an engineering coloured additive you can add to aid the process but best best to go by eye if you can. Also check the fan belts; should be a quarter turn for correct tightness. Plus check all hose connections etc. and tighten clips accordingly.

 

Your will also need some real ale or wine depending on taste on completion of the task as a self congratulatory pat on the back having completed the task as well as surviving the experience. Good luck!

[Guest]

OK hands up - I've postponed the service - way way too nice to be grubbing about in a narrow boat engine room. Gone boating instead, currently moored up from Weston lock - nice BBQ tea....Pinot Grigio nicely chilled - bugger the service I say...

 

also my PELA extraction pump didn't arrive before I set off from home yesterday so it gave me another excuse to postpone...

 

Apologies to the fellow CWDF who spotted us outside the marina this morning - I've forgotten your user name but yes good to meet you...

[ditchcrawler]

Our last service was carried out for us but I would like now to undertake the one due now and in the future myself.

 

By my reckoning the following is due-

 

Change engine oil (Isuzu 42) - it has an oil extraction pump so I am comfortable with getting the oil out.

 

Change engine oil filter,

 

Change diesel filter - what type though?

 

Change gearbox oil - how though? and from where?

 

Check alternator/water pump drive belts tension and condition.

 

Anything I've missed?

 

Cheers all.

 

eta - what is the engine and gearbox oil spec and type ???

Gearbox oil does not need changing so often as the engine oil

[Guest]

Currently moored at Sawley in the midst of a cracking (literally!!!) electrical storm...

 

Met CWDF member Haggis at Derwent mouth lock too...

[romarni123]

Currently moored at Sawley in the midst of a cracking (literally!!!) electrical storm...

 

Met CWDF member Haggis at Derwent mouth lock too...

I wish it would hurry up and get here I love it

[Guest]

I wish it would hurry up and get here I love it

 

A bit of a damp squib - a few minor pyrotechnics a very short rain shower,

 

a pity, we love a good storm too...

[Bobbybass]

Correct fill level is a quarter of the length of the stick. Difficult to see with new oil. There is an engineering coloured additive you can add to aid the process but best best to go by eye

 

Providing the oil is not red-blooming-hot...I just run the dipstick down the back of my hand to leave a stripe where the oil level is.

I then wipe my hand on the curtains....

 

Bob

Edited April 23, 2011 by Bobbybass

[bag 'o' bones]

Not thing to add other than I run the engine for 10 mins on tickover with wynns fushing oil added before dropping (or should that be sucking?) the old oil out. Somke say that it not worth doing if the engine is new and the oil is changed regularly but still belts and braces and all that!

[Guest]

All done - many thanks for the tips and info. Too windy to go boating so decided to get stuck in.

 

Can't remember who it was to say roll the PRM dipstick on a clean tissue to check the level - thanks for that it was useful.