Recessed Fender Eye

[RichW]

Hello

 

I currently have brass recessed fender eyes in the sides of gunwales and would like to replace them with a mild steel version that can be welded on.

Does anyone know of a supplier.

 

Thanks Rich

[blackrose]

Hello

 

I currently have brass recessed fender eyes in the sides of gunwales and would like to replace them with a mild steel version that can be welded on.

Does anyone know of a supplier.

 

Thanks Rich

 

I've seen them on sale at Uxbridge Boat Centre, so I assume that any good chandlers would be able to get them. I don't think they're cheap though.

 

How will you stop them from rusting? Presumably any paint you apply will get rubbed off where the rope chafes.

Edited December 4, 2010 by blackrose

[DHutch]

If you getting a fabricator to weld them on, why not just get them to make them anyway as even if there are places selling them they will only have been made in the same way. Probably from a bit of pipe, an piece of plate cut out with a holesaw, and some 6-8mm bar to tie the rope around.

 

Alternatively I had recessed eyes and where getting the welder out, i would be just be welding them up rather than anything else. If you every need them, hang the fender from the roof.

 

 

Daniel

[ditchcrawler]

Hello

 

I currently have brass recessed fender eyes in the sides of gunwales and would like to replace them with a mild steel version that can be welded on.

Does anyone know of a supplier.

 

Thanks Rich

I had some made but have not fitted them yet, The plan being they can be used for a spring line as well. The chap made them from short stubs of steel pipe, drilled a hole in each side to slide and weld a piece of round bar through and a disc of steel over the inboard end.

[blackrose]

I had some made but have not fitted them yet, The plan being they can be used for a spring line as well. The chap made them from short stubs of steel pipe, drilled a hole in each side to slide and weld a piece of round bar through and a disc of steel over the inboard end.

 

If recessed fender eyes are retro-fitted how can they be insulated? I know it's only a small area, but if you've cut a hole in your boat & sprayfoam and inserted a piece of bare steel into it, then the back of the eye and the area around it where the welding has burned away the foam will cause condensation to form which will drip into the boat.

Edited December 4, 2010 by blackrose

[tony collins]

How about something like this?

 

 

Worked on my boat all the time we had it. No problems with rust. All you need is a couple of pieces of round bar as the "inset" is the piece cut out of the gunwale, reversed.

[Barry]

Plus some squares with a hole in to fill the ends?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

edit for Qithing

Edited December 4, 2010 by Bazza2

[blackrose]

How about something like this?

 

 

Worked on my boat all the time we had it. No problems with rust. All you need is a couple of pieces of round bar as the "inset" is the piece cut out of the gunwale, reversed.

 

The cut out type are my favourite but I prefer a wedge shape as there's less for one's foot to fall into! Great if the boat is built like that but I have cables under my gunwhales and I would worry about cutting into them if trying to retro-fit.

[RichW]

Some good points to consider.

I will have to remove one of my brass ones and see if the spray foam is intact behind before I decide what to do.

I think the brass ones are prone to damage and if the seal fails will let water in. I also think that they look a bit naff on a black gunwale.

I would like to keep the possibility of using them now the holes are there but have something more robust and less obvious.

 

Rich

[tony collins]

Plus some squares with a hole in to fill the ends?

 

Sorry, yes, I did the sketch in a hurry, some time ago, and I think the supporting text was a bit more comprehensive that time. I must be getting lazy in my old age.

 

The cut out type are my favourite but I prefer a wedge shape as there's less for one's foot to fall into! Great if the boat is built like that but I have cables under my gunwhales and I would worry about cutting into them if trying to retro-fit.

 

Absolutely no danger of catching your toe in these in a 4" gunwale. Regarding the wedge, remember to leave enough room for the rope to pass through.

Edited December 4, 2010 by tony collins

[Guest]

Some good points to consider.

I will have to remove one of my brass ones and see if the spray foam is intact behind before I decide what to do.

I think the brass ones are prone to damage and if the seal fails will let water in. I also think that they look a bit naff on a black gunwale.

I would like to keep the possibility of using them now the holes are there but have something more robust and less obvious.

 

Rich

I agree with both those points, and would not have them fitted with hindsight. I never use mine now.

[blackrose]

Some good points to consider.

I will have to remove one of my brass ones and see if the spray foam is intact behind before I decide what to do.

I think the brass ones are prone to damage and if the seal fails will let water in. I also think that they look a bit naff on a black gunwale.

I would like to keep the possibility of using them now the holes are there but have something more robust and less obvious.

 

Rich

 

The brass ones are naff - I have them. To be honest the area is so small I doubt the sprayfoam issue is all that relevant. They are designed to lose the stainless steel bar should the fender hit something - but since fenders down while moving is frowned on anyway, that wouldn't be a problem if you're not doing it. The brass eye itself should be bedded in with Sikaflex or Marineflex so the seal shouldn't fail unless you take the screws out and prize the eye off, although it has been reported that very occasionally the stainless bar stays in and the entire eye comes out if the fender hits something while the boat is moving.

 

Your best bet is not to use them at all and hang some fenders from your handrail when you're moored up. Then you could just key the eyes up with some silicone carbide paper and paint them black with Hammerite or some other suitable paint. That would be your cheapest and easiest option.

Edited December 4, 2010 by blackrose

[ditchcrawler]

If recessed fender eyes are retro-fitted how can they be insulated? I know it's only a small area, but if you've cut a hole in your boat & sprayfoam and inserted a piece of bare steel into it, then the back of the eye and the area around it where the welding has burned away the foam will cause condensation to form which will drip into the boat.

The "plan" is tofit them where I can cut a hole in the lining, like behind the fridge or behind the calorifier in the bathroom, maybe engine room.That's what "Plans" are for.The next thing is a "round toit"

[sueb]

Don't do it. They are an affectation so save yourself the bother.

Sue

[tony collins]

I found the ones shown in the sketch very useful for springs. So speeders are less of a problem.

[blackrose]

Don't do it. They are an affectation so save yourself the bother.

Sue

 

I agree. If you're lucky enough not to have receessed fender eyes then why would you fit them?

[PhilR]

I found the ones shown in the sketch very useful for springs. So speeders are less of a problem.

 

There are much better fixings (which aren't recessed) available for fixing spring lines. I'll post a link when I can find one

[blackrose]

There are much better fixings (which aren't recessed) available for fixing spring lines. I'll post a link when I can find one

 

The trouble with anything that isn't recessed is that it will be a trip hazard on the gunwhale. Any protruding fitting mounted under the gunwhale is likely to get knocked off. The cabin side is a possibility but not low down where it will catch ankles or knees (ouch!) and of course if it's up high then it's not the best place for attaching a spring.

Edited December 5, 2010 by blackrose

[ditchcrawler]

I agree. If you're lucky enough not to have receessed fender eyes then why would you fit them?

I had mine made as I want to use them to attach springs,if I ever get round to fitting them. I have a set of brass ones somewhere which I bought when I bought the shell and never fitted.

[tony collins]

tony collins, on 04 December 2010 - 11:12 PM, said:

I found the ones shown in the sketch very useful for springs. So speeders are less of a problem.

 

 

There are much better fixings (which aren't recessed) available for fixing spring lines. I'll post a link when I can find one

 

I look forward to seeing them. I had the advantage of having them built into the shell as it was being fabricated. I found very little to fault with the design in fifteen years. However I am happy to be proved incorrect.

Edited December 5, 2010 by tony collins

[Guest]

How about something like this?

 

 

Worked on my boat all the time we had it. No problems with rust. All you need is a couple of pieces of round bar as the "inset" is the piece cut out of the gunwale, reversed.

I have seen many boats with this style of fixing, and if you must have fenders, then I feel these are the best. Also as pointed out are useful for springs etc. I wouldn't have the brass ones again for a big clock.

[Neil TNC]

This is the enlarged standard R&D recessed fender eye on the centre of NB Earnest.

It is large enough to fit a security chain through, or even a loop of the centre rope, ideal for a quick temp mooring.

It is made from a slice of 3" thick walled pipe, with a 5mm bar welded across.

[blackrose]

This is the enlarged standard R&D recessed fender eye on the centre of NB Earnest.

It is large enough to fit a security chain through, or even a loop of the centre rope, ideal for a quick temp mooring.

It is made from a slice of 3" thick walled pipe, with a 5mm bar welded across.

 

That's a neat idea using pipe.

[tony collins]

It is made from a slice of 3" thick walled pipe, with a 5mm bar welded across.

 

Good Idea using pipe, but only 5mm bar? IIRC mine were 15mm bar, perhaps a tad over engineered though!

 

I only ever used fenders when moored - I like a good night's sleep!

Edited December 5, 2010 by tony collins