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Morso Squirrel door seal adhesive


DeanS

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Hiya.

 

I couldnt find anything at B&Q for this, so hoping someone else has some ideas? My Morso stove door had a seal made of a cloth-like strip. It has lost it's grip from the door and needs to be re-glued/replaced. Anyone know what glue can withstand the high temperatures....I guess it would be something you use to seal the glass on the front of a stove door...I want to stick the "seal material" back on the door.

 

Thanks kindly.

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Hiya.

 

I couldnt find anything at B&Q for this, so hoping someone else has some ideas? My Morso stove door had a seal made of a cloth-like strip. It has lost it's grip from the door and needs to be re-glued/replaced. Anyone know what glue can withstand the high temperatures....I guess it would be something you use to seal the glass on the front of a stove door...I want to stick the "seal material" back on the door.

 

Thanks kindly.

 

If your original door seal is cloth-like you need new fire rope not adhesive. The seal has become compressed and is unlikely to be doing it's work effectively. As the results of this could be leakage of carbon monoxide into your cabin from the Squirrel my best, and only, guess would be to replace it. The correct fire rope will need to be pushed into the channel on the door and won't need adhesive as it will be a friction fit. Any self-respecting fireplace retailer or chandlery will have some in stock and although it may seem pricey for a length of cord, my advice is to pay the money and fit it. As soon as possible. An unfortunate side-effect of doing this is that the door will become much more difficult to close but keep persisting and the rope will eventually compress enough. it's the work of a few minutes and not hard to do.

 

I usually replace mine once very year but I'm sure that Bazza2 will be able to correctly advise as he's an ex-firefighter and knows rather than guesses.

Edited by wrigglefingers
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Fireplace shopes or chandleries should stock small tubes of adhesive for fixing the door rope.

 

You may be able to get away with sticking the seal back in, but as Wriggle says, it is likely that you need to replace the rope as well.

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If your original door seal is cloth-like you need new fire rope not adhesive. The seal has become compressed and is unlikely to be doing it's work effectively. As the results of this could be leakage of carbon monoxide into your cabin

 

I'm afraid I would disagree with this. A door seal's work is not to prevent the exit of carbon monoxide and other products of combustion, but to prevent the entry of excess air. Any leakage of CO, smoke, etc indicates a blocked or inadequate flue, and I would never rely on a door seal to contain this. My Carabo didn't even have a door seal on the vertical side, or any provision for one; I had to add one to provide a good enough air seal to burn wood without it burning away too fast. I just stuck stove rope on with high temperature adhesive, both from a stove shop.

 

Mac

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I did this job earlier this year and found there are two "densities" of rope, hard and soft. The Morso squirrel needs the soft rope or the door will not close properly if at all if the correct diameter is fitted to the groove in the door (8mm I think). It really needs to be glued with high temp glue or it falls out readily.

try www.stove-glass.com, they were helpful and sent everyting I needed quickly and at a fraction of the cost of my local stove shops.

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I'm afraid I would disagree with this. A door seal's work is not to prevent the exit of carbon monoxide and other products of combustion, but to prevent the entry of excess air. Any leakage of CO, smoke, etc indicates a blocked or inadequate flue, and I would never rely on a door seal to contain this. My Carabo didn't even have a door seal on the vertical side, or any provision for one; I had to add one to provide a good enough air seal to burn wood without it burning away too fast. I just stuck stove rope on with high temperature adhesive, both from a stove shop.

 

Mac

 

Please note use of the conditional clause - I do agree that you shouldn't rely on it as a means of preventing CO discharge however, all measures to prevent such a leakage should (imperative) be employed and that includes all points at which fumes could be discharged into the cabin.

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Please note use of the conditional clause - I do agree that you shouldn't rely on it as a means of preventing CO discharge however, all measures to prevent such a leakage should (imperative) be employed and that includes all points at which fumes could be discharged into the cabin.

 

I'm pretty sure the manual for the stoves reference the rope being in place for CO leakage prevention too -

 

 

2 many 2's edit

..

Edited by MJG
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Please note use of the conditional clause - I do agree that you shouldn't rely on it as a means of preventing CO discharge however, all measures to prevent such a leakage should (imperative) be employed and that includes all points at which fumes could be discharged into the cabin.

 

I'm sorry to bang on about this, but there is an important safety issue at stake. Door seals DO NOT prevent CO leakage, however effective they may seem. ALL they do is control air intake and rate of combustion. Many stoves (including American Fisher stoves) have been manufactured without rope door seals. Also, the 'airwash' systems on many stoves (high level inlets to assist complete combustion) would render any door seals completely ineffective at preventing CO leakage.

 

Of course the OP should renew his door seals if necessary, but he should be under no illusion that he will be making his stove any safer with regard to CO leakage. They will simply make the air controls more efficient.

 

Mac

 

Happy Birthday, by the way, if I read another thread correctly!

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I'm sorry to bang on about this, but there is an important safety issue at stake. Door seals DO NOT prevent CO leakage, however effective they may seem. ALL they do is control air intake and rate of combustion. Many stoves (including American Fisher stoves) have been manufactured without rope door seals. Also, the 'airwash' systems on many stoves (high level inlets to assist complete combustion) would render any door seals completely ineffective at preventing CO leakage.

 

Of course the OP should renew his door seals if necessary, but he should be under no illusion that he will be making his stove any safer with regard to CO leakage. They will simply make the air controls more efficient.

 

Mac

 

Happy Birthday, by the way, if I read another thread correctly!

 

Thanks Mac,

 

I'm not disagreeing with you just repeating what I see in my installation manual for my new Morso. Rope seals shall be placed in position to allow correct operation of stove and prevent fume leakage. I'm not saying it's the only measure you need to take nor am I saying that it's effective either. It's just another measure in a whole series of measures we take to stay safe. BTW, mine doesn't have the airwash feature, perhaps that's the difference.

 

Mind you, In one place in the instructions it says not to fire the stove overnight and in supplementary booklet it gives instructions for stoking the stove overnight. Perhaps the instruction booklets are the problem? :banghead:

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