2 stroke semi diesel.

[Speedwheel]

How about fitting a band around the silencer and tightening it up? A strap with a couple of lugs on the end with a bolt through. It would be a fairly typical repair for an engine of that age

 

That was certainly common place on Bolinders. Brass bands around the engine indicated a cracked head.

[springy]

Still cant decide if its best to just try and remake in stainless,which will be much lighter.

 

I'd definitely mend it if I were you. A stainless steel job would not look right on such a splendid old engine IMHO.

 

 

It would also sound completely different !

[Timleech]

It would also sound completely different !

 

& would be an interesting challenge, as it's presumably/apparently water jacketed.

 

This one shows the sort of screwed patches I was suggesting:-

 

 

 

 

 

Tim

[Jacq]

Tim,that looks good.It also gives me an idea of what colour the engine should be.Do you know what the stainless tank is attached to that engine ? Is it a catch tank for the oil?

[Timleech]

Tim,that looks good.It also gives me an idea of what colour the engine should be.Do you know what the stainless tank is attached to that engine ? Is it a catch tank for the oil?

 

I assume it's a temporary diesel tank for test running. I'm not familiar with these engines, but it feeds what looks like a filter behind the flywheel.

 

Tim

[RLWP]

Tim,that looks good.It also gives me an idea of what colour the engine should be.

<snip>

 

It looks like Stroudley's Improved Engine Green

 

 

a rich gamboge apparently:

 

 

Richard

[larkshall]

Tim,

 

now I have seen the photos of the casting,can I suggest an alternative.This may sound off the wall but hear me out.

 

I presume the top and bottom come off, leaving in essence a cylinder?

 

OK,make a new one

 

How he asks

 

Contact the cast iron forge at Ironbridge. They make and re-make forgings using the original as a template (They make a wooden plug of the object to be cast). It seems a relatively easy shape to copy, though will need a little machining post manufacture. Actually I'd have 2-3 made and sell the surplus on to recover your costs, as its obvous there are other engines with the same problem. These peoplemake some very intricate castings for other restorations (old steam engines through to very elaborate hollow stanchion castings for Victorian multispan greenhouses)

 

A replacement in steel,or stainless steel is likely to be shortlived,unless you where contemplating using very heavy gauge metal.

 

I wonder is there a Kromhout owners club?, ie sharing costs?, just ideas

[Timleech]

Tim,

 

now I have seen the photos of the casting,can I suggest an alternative.This may sound off the wall but hear me out.

 

I presume the top and bottom come off, leaving in essence a cylinder?

 

OK,make a new one

 

How he asks

 

Contact the cast iron forge at Ironbridge. They make and re-make forgings using the original as a template (They make a wooden plug of the object to be cast). It seems a relatively easy shape to copy, though will need a little machining post manufacture. Actually I'd have 2-3 made and sell the surplus on to recover your costs, as its obvous there are other engines with the same problem. These peoplemake some very intricate castings for other restorations (old steam engines through to very elaborate hollow stanchion castings for Victorian multispan greenhouses)

 

A replacement in steel,or stainless steel is likely to be shortlived,unless you where contemplating using very heavy gauge metal.

 

I wonder is there a Kromhout owners club?, ie sharing costs?, just ideas

 

I assume it's a water jacketed cylinder, so much more complex.

 

The Netherlands would be the place to look for others needing them, owners' clubs etc. There's a Kromhout Museum, but AIUI it's more focussed on the shipyard side than the engines.

 

Tim

[1-Cylinder Wonder]

The crack is in the water jacket of the exhaust expansion box. Do not go to the expense of having it welded or stiched it is not under enough pressure to require such a repair.Cast iron weldingis difficult and specialised and as a result very costly. An experienced welder will be able to braze that nicely and it will not look wrong. Numerous engines have suffered frost damage such as that. I think I told you when you purchased the Kromhout from me that my Petter had a nice brazed repair on the exhaust for exactly the same reason. Many stationary and marine engines you see have suffered a similar fate. I would drill and tap the crack at either end to stop it running any further and then braze to seal it. Or alternatively have it patched as seen in the other engine which I have seen done on other engines before. Both work and look appropriate.

 

Another point is that if you are to fabricate or make a new exhaust box the volume of the chamber must match as close as possible that of the original. It should not be ignored that the back pressure created by the expansion chmaber in the exhaust has a significant bearing on the performance of this type of engine. To mess with this can alter the engines ability to scavenge effectively and cause problems with the vaporiser getting too hot and causing pre-ignition and loss of power or the reverse with cooling especially when off load end making it hard to get the engine to idle at a reasonable speed. Also as someone else has said they can sound very different. I heard a big 40hp twin connected to a hot water cylinder for test purposes once. It sounded like someone hitting an oil drum with a baseball bat. When running with the massive cast iron pot it had the lovely hollow thump that a nice 2 stroke should.

 

John