Splitable belt

[John Orentas]

I suppose it is only a matter of time before hamster wheels get mentioned again.

 

John Squeers

[maffi mushkila]

I suppose it is only a matter of time before hamster wheels get mentioned again.

 

John Squeers

 

You were so right John O

[Paul Evans]

I'm reaching for that blender..........

[rustyduck]

Stop it.

 

Now.

 

Put the hamster down, and step away from the blender.

[Paul Evans]

Spoilsport!

[DHutch]

lol- you guys are crazy!!

[DHutch]

Well, not much has happened as we havnt run the engine since biginging of this thread, but i have searched the web for hours looking for 18" aluminim pulleys (or any large pulleys at all) although i have order an second orange t-link belt, and a pair of the blue ones.

 

 

danel

[PhilipL]

So, is it on the right way then, should the links more "into" the pulley

 

like this

\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ (links)

--> --> --> --> (direction  of movment)

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

No, I think the links should be the other way round. I'll double check at the weekend.

 

My boat had an orange belt fitted when I bought it. When this wore down so that it was so narrow that it was slipping more than usual, I tried the plastic Power Twist type. Although this is cheaper it certainly seemed to slip as much as the old one (before it wore out). When the engine was rebuilt I had it modified so that it was possible to fit a normal belt, then got a shock at how much specialist sizes of belt can cost. This also slips. I have bought some new orange belt from Midland ****dlers to replace it, but I haven't tried it yet.

 

And before anyone says why don't I tighten the belt more, this wears out the bearings on the water pump. The last one only lasted 4 years.

 

Phil

[PhilipL]

Just discovered that there was another page of posts that I hadn't noticed. Not that it affects what I did say, but...

 

the blue Z section belt is smaller the A section, ie. only 10mm wide (at its widest) as opposed to 13mm (1/2in), see

 

http://www.fptgroup.com/downloads/friction_powerplus.pdf

 

unfortunately ftp don't sell the Nu-T belting anymore so they haven't got the datasheet that you need.

 

You could try measuring the pulley to see what size the groove is.

 

Phil

[DHutch]

i though the blue t-link was A section (13mm) - which is the size of the pulleys

[DHutch]

Also, i just got an email back from chronos saying that they can get the pulley for me in "7-10 days" at a cost of £133, although they didnt say if that was for the singal or the twin groove one (i asked for both)

 

daniel

[Big COL]

    So, is it on the right way then, should the links more "into" the pulley

like this

    \\\\\\\\\\\\\\\\ (links)

  --> --> --> --> (direction  of movment)

 

 

Daniel.

 

The covered part of the link moves towards the pulley with the flap trailing.If you have the flap leading and it catches on something it will pull the belt undone.

Hope this makes sense

[DHutch]

The covered part of the link moves towards the pulley with the flap trailing.

 

So looking at the belt in the picture, the belt should be going clockwise? - which would be right, becuase thats the way it would need to be for the right hand prop.

 

 

 

daniel

[Big COL]

Daniel

 

As you look at your picture the belt should be running anti clockwise. Top of the belt towards the alternator. If you imagine it running the other way you can see how it could undo if something was to catch on one of the flaps. I have just read what I posted earlier and it was wrong. I shall have to go and have a lie down, its all getting to much.

Edited January 11, 2005 by Big COL

[DHutch]

Daniel

 

  As you look at your picture the belt should be running anti clockwise. Top of the belt towards the alternator. If you imagine it running the other way you can see how it could undo if something was to catch on one of the flaps. I have just read what I posted earlier and it was wrong. I shall have to go and have a lie down, its all getting to much. 

 

Yes, it would, i worked it out wrong too, becuase if it where going clockwise, the prop would be going anticlock wise - which is NOT right for a RH prop.

 

 

- and also i got the email back again, and apprently £133 is for the single pulley, the twin groove one is £154.00 (so for the £21 might as well get the right thing)

 

daniel

[PhilipL]

Having been to the boat I now have the fiiting instructions for NuTlink, and I have also found them on the web at

http://www.fenner.com/Websites/BTL.nsf/Nu-...kInstr?OpenPage

 

but if you want to navigate the rest of their site it's best to go to

http://www.fenner.com/Websites/BTL.nsf/

 

Basically it says that the belt will run equally well in either direction, but then goes on to give a preffered direction.

 

Phil

[DHutch]

Thanks, that make it clear.

 

Sorry nothings happened, but i have been very busy with exams and DT coursework (the removable roof)

- and there not much point in doing anythink till it can be tested, and for that the engine need to be running, and at the moment it is heavly winterised!!

- but im hoping that we might be make on the move during the hlaf term holidays, which are a-coming ever closer!!

 

i think the only thing thats happened since i last posted it that i got an email back from picador, and they say i can get the pulleys direct from than at a price of d £85.00 for the simgle and £110 for the double, a lot less than the £133 £154.00 that chronos quoted, even if it doesnt includ postage, which i may well not (the chronos price does)

- If any ones looking for some pulleys, you can ring them on 01724281305

 

 

thankyou, daniel

[DHutch]

Wow, this was a long time ago!

 

Finally we've got around to looking at again.

- We got the single pulley off, and the double on inplace.

 

However, the guy who split it for us this time has a made of mess of it and the coller to clamp it to the shaft is a bit rubbish, and we cant get it to tighten up enough not to slip on the shaft when i yank it. And the one of the old pulley is little bit to big to fit.

- So we've taken it home to make a shim so we can use the old coller to tighen it on properly, probberly with some perment-loctite in there too!

 

Photo, before we took it off again!

 

 

Daniel

[Sir Nibble]

The torque on this set up must be quite considerable with the alternator set up for slow running, no wonder that single belt slipped!

[bottle]

Not being an engineer and talking off the top of my head.

 

The amount of contact of belt to pulley (alternater) is quite small, would it be possible to fit an 'idler arm'.

 

Difficult to describe but I know it was done with timing chains and cambelts in engines.

 

With timing chains it was to take up the slack as the chain stretched with age with cambelts it is to give better 'wrap' on the pulleys, as is needed in this case.

 

I think this would also reduce the amount of tension required to get drive also.

 

Over to the true engineers

[Denis R]

Bottle, you're right about the lack of contact angle in my mind. The belt manufacturer will have a chart that calculates the amount of torque the belt can transmit for a given pulley diameter and contact angle. I can't see from the picture if it has one already, but if not it might need a poly-vee, like a power steering belt on a car engine. They transmit far more torque than the traditional vee belt. Your idea of an idler to increase the belt wrap is no bad idea, especially if includes a spring loaded tensioner too....

[Cafnod]

For a good modern example of belts wrapping to increase contact area take a look at a 2.5l DI Ford Transit engine, they do not use idler arms but the priciple of wrapping for more belt to pulley contact is the same.

[DHutch]

The torque on this set up must be quite considerable with the alternator set up for slow running, no wonder that single belt slipped!

Yeah, quite. Also, looking at it, it seams the belt was pritty worn out too.

 

The amount of contact of belt to pulley (alternater) is quite small, would it be possible to fit an 'idler arm'.

Yes, the contact area is quite small, as the big pulley is realy very big (18") and there quite close together.

- I have inquired about idler pulley, but its not really feasable with the stupid T-link belting, as the back of it is very rough.

 

 

 

BUt in the mean time, i knocked up to shims out of the 1/16" brass we had knocking about, and then got out the stud-loc. I think its well enough stuck on the shaft now not to slip!

- Then i mesured an made up the two belts, and made them the right lenght to give the recomended 9% pre-streach. And then "sprung" the belts on, with a bloody big shove with a large screwdriver!

- It looks very good, i forgot the camera today, but photos will be taken tomorrow.

 

Its all just a huge pain that you can get a normal belt in there, as it has to be split to get it on.

 

 

 

Daniel

[DHutch]

Here we go, photo as promised.

 

Tooks pritty good to me!

- Fingers crossed it worked for us.

 

 

Daniel

[Alec Gatherer]

That's belting Daniel.