PhilipL

Unfortunately the CR123 battery is 3v so a PP3 would not be suitable. Having contacted Fireangel they have said that the self diagnostics in my ST620 has probably detected a fault, and if I send it back to them they will replace it FOC.

Yes it is an optical type. Its expensive ~£20 but is supposed to have a 5 year life with the replaceable CR2 battery. It looks as though the mesh might help prevent spiders getting inside. Im looking around a smoke alarms aagain as my Fireangel ST620 now has a low battery after only 18 months and it's supposed to last 10 years. Despite what they say its easy to take them apart and change the battery, if you have a soldering iron, however I cant find CR123A batteries with tags at a reasonable price.

I am now using Fuelset. Tony Brooks also uses it. It kills off the bugs and puts any water in suspension so that it passes through the system harmlessly. Midland ****dlers now stock it, http://www.liquideng.com.au/fuelset.html Phil

To quote from the FAQ >the output is square wave (modified sign wave) So they are contradicting themselves there. I don't think anyone sells square wave invertors these days? I think the person writing the FAQ may not be fully qualified to do so. For example in answer to the question >Is 1000W the continuous output rating....? they answer >Like all invertors, if you constantly pull the max wattage it will eventually overheat Which is true as you would expect this invertor to overheat if you run it at 2500W, which the spec. implies is the maximum power, but does not answer the question. They also state that it will not run a 700W vacuum cleaner or an 800W electic drill, as they are inductive loads, which I hope is not true. When I bought my invertors 5 years ago it was the norm to quote an invertors power as the power it could run at for 30 minutes. Today things seem to be better but its alsways worth checking the spec or questioning what the continuous power rating is and at what temperature. Of course all this is becoming less relevant as the special offer on there invertors has finished, Phil

Not sure if we're going to be able to help with this one, but what was the relay for, and did replace an existing one? Phil

I believe that it's cheaper to buy a combined unit than to buy seperate devices so I think it's reasonable that people should be aware that they exist. The only disadvantage is the RCBOs normally seem to be single pole wheras RCCBs are normally double pole. What I'm suggesting that an old RCD which has overload protection may not be marked RCBO, because that is relatively recent term. The names of these devices has changed over the years. Originally ELCB, then RCB, then RCD. I think that we now have RCCB and RCBO which are both types of RCD. I for one need to know, so I will ask at work, Phil

It is listed in the Modified Sine Wave Invertor section. I would imagine that unless you really need an invertor that will give you 1kW continuously, eg for more than half an hour, it will probably do what you want. Phil

I was always under the impression that RCDs (Residual Current Device) also acted as overcurrent trips, MCBs (Mininiature Circuit Breaker). However as I didn't know what an RCBO was I had to look it up, and they are Residual Current Breaker with Overcurrent protection. So it seems that now you can have RCDs with or without overcurrent protection, and the ones with overcurrent may be described as RCBOs. For example on the Index Marine website they sell RCDs with or without overcurrent protection and the ones without are described as RCD only. I don't know whether or when things changed, and how you would tell the difference if you already have one. If no one else knows I can probably find out at work, Phil

I've been the last 4 years but only because it was near to, or enroute to my boat. It has never been very good for narrow boaters, but last year was the worst, even BW were not there. I assumued that they were going to concentrate on the London Boat show, Crick, and the IWA national. I'm not planning to go this year unless I hear that it's better than last year, but your report is not encouraging, Phil

Just been looking at this myself and AFIK the only way to prove ownership of a boat is register it under section 1 of the Register of Ships. Unfortunately this costs money 130ukp to register 105ukp to register a mortgage plus the cost of a survey for tonnage and measurement Having got it, the name and port of registry will need to fixed to the boat. If your existing boat name is taken then you would need to rename your boat. Having done all this it only lasts 5 years and costs 50ukp to renew. You can register under section 3, otherwise know as the Small Ships Register, which only costs 12ukp but this is no proof of ownership. It's only use is some sort of proof of ownersip when you go abroad. Phil

I've not seen any current speed information. When going upstream with the tide I have used a GPS to tell me my actual speed and adjust it so that I arrive at the desired time. The currents I have experienced are typically about 5mph. I suspect that they don't vary much as the tide turns very quickly. The reason for using a rope when entering West Stockwith going downstream against the tide is that there is a back eddy along the quay upstream of the lock. This is not a problem at the other locks. Phil

If you've done Selby then the Trent is easier. There is a BW leaflet about the technique for getting into Keadby and West Stockwith locks. Do not try any other technique unless you want to crash into the wall. Basically it is, approach against the current/tide about 15-20 feet away from and parallel to the bank. When the bow is opposite the middle of the lock, turn and use full throttle to get into the lock. At West Stockwith Lock the lock keeper will ususally guide you into the lock, either visually or on VHF, if you have come downstream and are approaching the lock going upstream against the outgoing current. If you have come upstream from Keadby and are approaching going downstream against the incoming tide, then they will offer to take a rope to stop you crashing into the wall. The Trent does funny things like the high water level can fall before the surface current has turned. This is because the current underneath turns first. This probably explains why the tide can turn very fast, Phil

Might be worth speaking to the Boaters Phone Company www.boatersphone.com 07970 459638 Phil

Having been to the boat I now have the fiiting instructions for NuTlink, and I have also found them on the web at http://www.fenner.com/Websites/BTL.nsf/Nu-...kInstr?OpenPage but if you want to navigate the rest of their site it's best to go to http://www.fenner.com/Websites/BTL.nsf/ Basically it says that the belt will run equally well in either direction, but then goes on to give a preffered direction. Phil

As it's not advertised much I thought I'd mention the FreeSat service from Sky http://www.freesatfromsky.co.uk/ I purchased a Camping Sat kit and Pace minibox from http://www.leisurepower.co.uk/index.html at the NEC show last year. At the time you could only get the "Free to air" unencrypted channels and not ITV, Channel 4, or Five, so I got a good deal. Finally Sky started their FreeSat service, and for £20 for 3 years I now have a card that gives me access to the "Free to view" channels as well. I wouldn't particularly recommend either my dish or box. The Pace minibox may be small and run off 12v but it doen't have an RGB output, though this is not a major issue on boat size TVs. The suction mount with the dish doesn't seem to be reliable in cold weather so I now using it with the pole clamp. But it does solve my problem of not having a decent TV signal in Shireoaks marina, Phil