Bottom Rudder Bearing

[soldthehouse]

Alex,

 

Did you use Stilsons to tighten your prop nut?

 

Paul

Norty

[WotEver]

Alex,

 

Did you use Stilsons to tighten your prop nut?

 

Paul

Obviously not.. that's why it's fallen off

 

:::coat:::

 

... and attaching an anode to the shaft like that won't work nearly as well as a prop.

[Guest]

Better pic from earlier post, edit function is playing me up

 

Ta, that is exactly how I want to do mine

 

Hi

 

My rudder stock is 11/2" and a piece of round steel bar 3"x 2" with an 11/2" hole is welded onto the skeg for it it to pivot in - simple but prone to wear.

 

Alex

 

 

Mine is like that, and yes,it has worn.

[hughc]

Just to enlarge on that slightly: Is the bottom of the rudder stock rounded and running in a cup shaped bearing, or am I misunderstanding?

Thanks.

The stock and cup are both faced level i.e. no rounding. The stock should be a running fit in the cup and top bearing with very little play if any. Regards, HughC.

[steelaway]

Alex,

 

Did you use Stilsons to tighten your prop nut?

 

Paul

 

 

Hi Paul

 

I never use stilsons on any thing, they are a discusting tool even when used on pipe.

The prop was still to be fitted - I didn't trust the neighbourhood.

 

The new prop bearing with its nylon insert was welded on today - bit tight but fits like a glove and very smooth

 

Alex

Edited October 12, 2010 by steelaway

[paulcatchpole]

Hi Paul

 

I never use stilsons on any thing, they are a discusting tool even when used on pipe.

The prop was still to be fitted - I didn't trust the neighbourhood.

 

The new prop bearing with its nylon insert was welded on today - bit tight but fits like a glove and very smooth

 

Alex

 

I know the feeling about the neighbourhood, our prop is safely stowed elsewhere until the day it goes in the water.

 

You've got a nylon cutless bearing of some sort then?

 

For the rudder bearings, from our own thread, we've used a huge flange bearing, with its insert canted to take in the canted rudder stock, and a brass bush at the bottom, to take up some of the *huge* rattling-good-fit (TM, Uncle Richard), that was present. Mind you, this isn't new, it's a refurb-a-1972-boat effort...

 

 

 

PC

[steelaway]

I know the feeling about the neighbourhood, our prop is safely stowed elsewhere until the day it goes in the water.

 

You've got a nylon cutless bearing of some sort then?

 

For the rudder bearings, from our own thread, we've used a huge flange bearing, with its insert canted to take in the canted rudder stock, and a brass bush at the bottom, to take up some of the *huge* rattling-good-fit (TM, Uncle Richard), that was present. Mind you, this isn't new, it's a refurb-a-1972-boat effort...

 

 

 

 

PC

 

 

Hi Paul

 

You can't see it on my picture but I have the same bearing arrangment as a top bearing and it has worked very well.

The bottom one is such a crude affair that it was bound to wear, your brass one is a much better solution.

I have fitted a disc of plastic to cover and protect the top bearing from the rain pooling in the housing and then filled it with grease. Its not a stainless bearing.

 

Alex

[Timleech]

Hi Paul

 

You can't see it on my picture but I have the same bearing arrangment as a top bearing and it has worked very well.

The bottom one is such a crude affair that it was bound to wear, your brass one is a much better solution.

I have fitted a disc of plastic to cover and protect the top bearing from the rain pooling in the housing and then filled it with grease. Its not a stainless bearing.

 

Alex

 

It's water from the prop splashing up the tube, and the generally damp environment, which knackers them as much as anything.

 

Tim

[paulcatchpole]

It's water from the prop splashing up the tube, and the generally damp environment, which knackers them as much as anything.

 

Tim

 

Aye, that sounds like a fair explanation. At least the inserts are cheap enough - for cheap ones!

 

The cover-cap sounds like a good idea to reduce rain from the top at least - good thinking, Steelaway.

 

The grubscrews in the bottom bearing piccy of ours *are* stainless, but it's a bit of an experiment, the whole thing, so I'm prepared for it to wear oddly or do something strange. Not the end of the world - there's a huge amount of metal-on-metal rattly pencil-in-a-mug play on our 'main' boat, and it does okay.

 

PC

 

PS: Our housing has a grease nipple, but I've no idea if the grease can get into the bearing!

Edited October 12, 2010 by paulcatchpole

[Timleech]

 

PC

 

PS: Our housing has a grease nipple, but I've no idea if the grease can get into the bearing!

 

The bearings often have tiny holes in the outer race which are supposed to allow grease to be fed in via the grease nipple & spherical housing. Doesn't seem to have much effect in this sort of job, though.

 

Tim

[steelaway]

Aye, that sounds like a fair explanation. At least the inserts are cheap enough - for cheap ones!

 

The cover-cap sounds like a good idea to reduce rain from the top at least - good thinking, Steelaway.

 

The grubscrews in the bottom bearing piccy of ours *are* stainless, but it's a bit of an experiment, the whole thing, so I'm prepared for it to wear oddly or do something strange. Not the end of the world - there's a huge amount of metal-on-metal rattly pencil-in-a-mug play on our 'main' boat, and it does okay.

 

PC

 

PS: Our housing has a grease nipple, but I've no idea if the grease can get into the bearing!

 

 

Hi Paul

 

Isn't t ime for bed yet?

My housing also has the grease nipple but it not useable, the bearing is not drilled to allow grease in to it as its a sealed bearing (but not rubber sealed to stop water ingress).

If ever replace it I would get a 2RS (rubber sealed) bearing

 

Alex

[Timleech]

Hi Paul

 

Isn't t ime for bed yet?

My housing also has the grease nipple but it not useable, the bearing is not drilled to allow grease in to it as its a sealed bearing (but not rubber sealed to stop water ingress).

If ever replace it I would get a 2RS (rubber sealed) bearing

 

Alex

 

Very often the shielded bearings are drilled, the holes are tiny and can only be seen if you swivel the bearing out of the housing.

 

Tim

[steelaway]

Very often the shielded bearings are drilled, the holes are tiny and can only be seen if you swivel the bearing out of the housing.

 

Tim

 

 

Hi

 

I cant see how you could force grease into a shielded bearing - you would pop the shields

 

Alex

[Timleech]

Hi

 

I cant see how you could force grease into a shielded bearing - you would pop the shields

 

Alex

 

The shields are just that, not seals, and the holes are tiny so the amount of grease getting through would be small. Doesn't seem to work terribly well (in this environment) though.

 

Tim

[paulcatchpole]

Very often the shielded bearings are drilled, the holes are tiny and can only be seen if you swivel the bearing out of the housing.

 

Tim

 

I can see what I thought was a detent-ball - about 2mm dia, sticking out of the outer race of the bearing insert, in the one place where the housing is cut away to be able to see it. Is that one of said holes?

 

PC

[Timleech]

I can see what I thought was a detent-ball - about 2mm dia, sticking out of the outer race of the bearing insert, in the one place where the housing is cut away to be able to see it. Is that one of said holes?

 

PC

 

That's probably to stop the race spinning in the housing.

 

Tim