Calder and Hebble

[Theo]

I work for the Civil Service (FCO) and we're all facing a minimum of 25% cuts - but we've been planning a 33% cut for the last eighteen months assuming that ConDem was going to be Just Conned. Already celebrating the 8% saving....Now is the time to stop focusing on cuts and start thinking how we're going to make up the shortfall. There's plenty of opportunity...

 

Ideas on a postcard.

 

I do like that attitude!

 

N

 

 

The boat we are buying is 60ft and we plan to do the same at some point...any tips on doing Salterhebble backwards appreciated...

 

This link will help. After we had gone down backwards Martin told us that it was feasible to go down forwards but that was too late to try!

 

http://www.penninewaterways.co.uk/calder/locks.htm

 

Nick

[Guest]

http://www.penninewaterways.co.uk/calder/locks.htm

 

Nick

 

Cheers Theo - had that link posted to me in another thread - was rather hoping for a few personal experience tips...

 

thanks anyway..

[MartinClark]

Cheers Theo - had that link posted to me in another thread - was rather hoping for a few personal experience tips...

 

I'm not sure what sort of tips you're after.

 

Some people have found it easier to take a 60 ft boat down the top two locks at Salterhebble backwards, but that depends on the exact shape of the boat. Some 60 ft boats will descend the locks fine forwards, while others run the risk of the rudder/skeg contacting the cill. The cills are curved so one end of the boat would need to be somewhere in the centre, near the middle of the cill, with the other end of the boat in the corner on one side of the bottom gates.

 

To exit the lock, open the bottom gate on the side opposite where the end of the boat is, then push the end of the boat across. The difficult part with a 60 ft boat is getting the boat past the closed side of the bottom gates. When you push the end of the boat across, past the closed gate towards the open gate, you might find it gets stuck! You will need to have fenders out of the way and you might need a bit of pushing with poles or re-positioning the other end of the boat to get the maximum length available.

 

There is a T junction above the top lock, so it is comparatively easy to reverse into the lock. There is a wide circular pound below the top lock and below the middle lock, enabling you to turn around below either lock. I believe the second lock is not as short as the top lock, so you might only need to reverse down the top lock.

 

If you are going uphill, there is no need to reverse through either lock (unless you have a very unusually-shaped boat), as the whole point is to avoid the rudder catching the cill on the way down. Going uphill, you will have the bow near the centre at the top end, where there is most length (curved cills) and the stern in one corner behind the bottom gates. The danger to be aware of here is the overhanging platforms on the bottom gate, and to make sure the boat does not come up under one, or it will take your swan neck off!

 

The two top Salterhebble locks are the shortest on the canal so you will not need to reverse through any others.

 

It is not as daunting as it sounds - lots of boats do it. You just need to remember you are on the maximum for size, and take it slowly, keeping your eyes open for anything going wrong.

Edited June 26, 2010 by MartinClark

[Guest]

Thanks Martin...

[nipper]

Thanks Martin...

..

Just came up Salterhebble locks today with my 60 footer.

The guillotine was no problem, and indeed, had two boats side by side.

The middle lock was a tad too tight for me, so had to take off my stern fender and just squeezed past the wood of the closed bottom gate, then ran out of water and went aground. The onshore command module (the wife) sent down a dose of water from the top lock down to improve the depth and just squeezed into the top lock, scraping a little wood away with the fender stub.

 

All in all a job well done, next year I'll try it going down hill!

 

Nipper

[MartinClark]

..

Just came up Salterhebble locks today with my 60 footer.

The guillotine was no problem, and indeed, had two boats side by side.

The middle lock was a tad too tight for me, so had to take off my stern fender and just squeezed past the wood of the closed bottom gate, then ran out of water and went aground. The onshore command module (the wife) sent down a dose of water from the top lock down to improve the depth and just squeezed into the top lock, scraping a little wood away with the fender stub.

 

All in all a job well done, next year I'll try it going down hill!

 

Excellent! Glad you made it! It sounds as if my memory was correct about the top lock being slightly tighter than the middle lock!

[Guest]

Meanwhile I'm making copious notes, cheers...

[Big John]

We have just arrived at Stanley Ferry having completed the Huddersfield Canals and then the Calder and Hebble from Cooper Bridge to Fall Ings. We did the Calder and Hebble last year as well. Must say that the Huddersfield Narrow E locks near Aspley Basin were the first and only ones where we needed the extended windlass and we had two locks that leaked like sieves east of 32E where BW leave you to your own devices - needed to use a rope to open one top gate as the water wouldn't find a level.

 

If you want to read our up to date C&H experiences, look at our blog from here onward. I felt no danger of breaking our spike (a plain, planed, pictured piece of 3x2 hardwood) on either cruise. It seems to me that taking everything as you find it and taking it slowly is the way to go. Plenty of people ready to talk the canals down - but patience would often have overcome their problems.

 

I agree about flaking paint. Isn't this something that the Huddersfield Canal Society could be remedying?

BTW, Martin's PennineWaterways site is invaluable!

[carlt]

With the cuts we'll be back to the 1970s when I started boating, we were lucky to find one paddle working in those days.

Oh I do hope so!

 

I'd definitely be tempted back.

 

Anyone know of a nice Taylors of Chester wooden cruiser for sale?

[Travis]

Lock key?

[MartinClark]

Lock key?

 

Windlass.

[Dr Bradley]

Why's everbody going to my home when I'm not there?

[Natalie Graham]

Anyone know of a nice Taylors of Chester wooden cruiser for sale?

 

Just missed one http://thames.boatshed.com/narrow_beam_cab...oat-107505.html but if it comes back on the market remember I saw it first.

[DHutch]

http://www.penninewaterways.co.uk/calder/locks.htm

What you really need i a photo of the business end if you havnt see one before.

- Although cracking in the own right, both these photos fail to show how it actually works or what the profile of the end of the piece of wood should be and why. I did take one, but as im on the laptop having moved most of my stuff home i dont have it with me.

 

 

Daniel

[MartinClark]

What you really need i a photo of the business end if you havnt see one before.

- Although cracking in the own right, both these photos fail to show how it actually works or what the profile of the end of the piece of wood should be and why. I did take one, but as im on the laptop having moved most of my stuff home i dont have it with me.

 

If you'd like to send it to me when you get the chance, I'll add it to the page!

[Big John]

Daniel said:

What you really need i a photo of the business end if you havnt see one before.

- Although cracking in the own right, both these photos fail to show how it actually works or what the profile of the end of the piece of wood should be and why.

Our piece of 3" x 2" wood is double ended - I put whichever end doesn't come to hand into the gear mechanism. This picture shows one end (the groove isn't necessary):

Picture of end of C&H SPike

Any of the pictures where you can see either end of the spike shows what is needed the other end, if you see what I mean.

Martin, I'd be happy for you to add a link to our page on your site.