Bukh Engine Maintenance ~ noob needs help

[kendo]

Hi People.

 

Our Bukh DV20 is out of the boat for maintenence.

I've degreased it, and this is my first concern...

 

 

I've looked in the workshop manual, but couldn't find out what

this part of the engine is for. or what it is called. sorry.

 

How serious is it? That whole lump looks like an integral part

of the casting. I'm slightly worried at this point. And wondered

if anybody has any experience with this engine, or the 'leaky bit'?

 

thankyou.

[BEngo]

Hi People.

 

Our Bukh DV20 is out of the boat for maintenence.

I've degreased it, and this is my first concern...

 

 

 

I've looked in the workshop manual, but couldn't find out what

this part of the engine is for. or what it is called. sorry.

 

How serious is it? That whole lump looks like an integral part

of the casting. I'm slightly worried at this point. And wondered

if anybody has any experience with this engine, or the 'leaky bit'?

 

thankyou.

 

I do not claim to be a Bukh wizzard, butTony Brooks may be along soon and I think he is. However....

 

The lump looks like a thermostat housing. The leak looks more annoying than a serious problem. It depends on which bit is leaking and how much.

 

Those 4 hex socket capscrews are surely holding something on- undo one and see how long it is.

 

If it's long enough to go right through the lump then it's may be that there are three components- the engine, the thermostat housing and the cover. Thre will be gaskets between the enginbe and the housing and between the hosuing and the cover. Renew these and apply a good gasket sealer to them when you re-fit. Hylomar is IMHO the best, but Heldite is good if you don't mind hard to dismantle again. Orange silicon goo is cr@p and the hallmark of a bodger.

 

If it's only short then the lump may be part of the block, but the thermostat cover will come off. From the last photo there is a dribble mark down the corner of the lump so it seems that this is most probably the joint that is leaking in any case. Clean it up and fit a new gasket with hylomar.

 

 

Gasket paper is available from model engineering suppliers like Reeves 2000 if you can't get maker's originals.

 

 

Attack the rust on the block with an angle grinder and a wire brush then use Fertan or Vactan before you give it a new paint finish.

 

ATB

N.

[WotEver]

If it's long enough to go right through the lump then it's may be that there are three components- the engine, the thermostat housing and the cover.

I don't know anything about Bukhs either but looking at the picture I think you're right. That ripply edge at the bottom of the 'lump' looks more like gasket goo than a casting corner, and I'd suspect it's the gasket at this point that's been weeping. Perhaps those hex screws were never torqued up correctly.

 

Tony (not the expert one)

Edited April 13, 2010 by WotEver

[kendo]

ah.. i'd assumed the 'ripply bit' around the base was some form of weld, maybe a bad one.

but now i know what's likely to be going on in there, i feel a lot better about tackling it.

really grateful for the help, and advice.

 

how do i get the paint off?

stripper? heat gun? both?

 

i've got enough vactan to treat it. but what do you recommend i paint it with, once

it's been reassembled? the bilge compartment was originally that red colour too. but

'international paints' only do "Danboline", which is grey, grey, or grey. Looks ok in the

bilge, but i wouldn't want it all over the engine.

 

my friend Grahoom also asked... "Why do they paint engines?".

I guess it's a protective layer against rust, dirt, and oil?

 

sorry for the novice questions, but i'm keen to learn.

 

[RLWP]

ah.. i'd assumed the 'ripply bit' around the base was some form of weld, maybe a bad one.

but now i know what's likely to be going on in there, i feel a lot better about tackling it.

really grateful for the help, and advice.

 

how do i get the paint off?

stripper? heat gun? both?

 

i've got enough vactan to treat it. but what do you recommend i paint it with, once

it's been reassembled? the bilge compartment was originally that red colour too. but

'international paints' only do "Danboline", which is grey, grey, or grey. Looks ok in the

bilge, but i wouldn't want it all over the engine.

 

my friend Grahoom also asked... "Why do they paint engines?".

I guess it's a protective layer against rust, dirt, and oil?

 

sorry for the novice questions, but i'm keen to learn.

 

 

I use Nitromors for paint stripping on engines, but for a small patch like that a wire brush will do.

 

Craftmaster do a range of engine enamels

 

Richard

 

If I were doing that job, I would replace the gasket, but no way would I stick it on with Hylomar. I may want to take it apart again some day

[kendo]

thanks Richard. i'm going to make the most of the sunny weather and tackle it tomorrow.

 

[Keeping Up]

i've got enough vactan to treat it. but what do you recommend i paint it with, once

it's been reassembled? the bilge compartment was originally that red colour too. but

'international paints' only do "Danboline", which is grey, grey, or grey. Looks ok in the

bilge, but i wouldn't want it all over the engine.

 

my friend Grahoom also asked... "Why do they paint engines?".

I guess it's a protective layer against rust, dirt, and oil?

Danboline also comes in brown, a similar colour to red oxide primer (I've been painting with it today), but it still wouldn't look right on your engine. That red is great!

 

You don't need a protective cover against rust if you've got a suitable selection of oil leaks.

[kendo]

Danboline also comes in brown, a similar colour to red oxide primer (I've been painting with it today), but it still wouldn't look right on your engine.

aha... thankyou! round the other side there is a slack bit of painting, and it's brown underneath.

i wondered how it had got that colour... but now i can see that it's the paint underneath the red.

it reminds me of 'caretakers coat' or 'wet paper bag'. not nice.

 

That red is great!

yes, we love it too. it really does look like a Danish lifeboat engine.

 

Edited April 13, 2010 by kendo

[kendo]

hiya people... followed your advice. got myself some nitromors and ended up with this.

 

 

somebody who knew 'stuart' engines suggested that the 'ripply bit' was definitely weld.

and the join was leaking, because the iron had rusted away beneath it. sound feasible?

can you weld brass to iron? something doesn't look right to me. to my untrained eye, it

looks like the brass has been plonked on top of some goo, which has solidified hard.

 

anyway,. tomorrow i'm going to borrow some allen keys and try to get the top off.

thanks for telling me it was the thermostat housing. i looked it up in the manual,

and there are 15 'bits' inside (allegedly). bit daunting. but i really want to stop the

leakage.

 

cheers..

[BEngo]

hiya people... followed your advice. got myself some nitromors and ended up with this.

 

 

somebody who knew 'stuart' engines suggested that the 'ripply bit' was definitely weld.

and the join was leaking, because the iron had rusted away beneath it. sound feasible?

can you weld brass to iron? something doesn't look right to me. to my untrained eye, it

looks like the brass has been plonked on top of some goo, which has solidified hard.

 

anyway,. tomorrow i'm going to borrow some allen keys and try to get the top off.

thanks for telling me it was the thermostat housing. i looked it up in the manual,

and there are 15 'bits' inside (allegedly). bit daunting. but i really want to stop the

leakage.

 

cheers..

 

You cannot "weld" brass/bronze to iron- but there is a process called brazing. I cannot think that Bukh would want to do that in this case because it is not an easy process (the engine block would have to be red hot) so it is much more likely they used bolts and gaskets. If there has been a leak between the bronze and the cast iron then it is probable the cast iron will have been eaten away. Any damage should be cleaned up with a wire brush. If it is minor either use a file to produce a flat surface or use more gasket sealant. If it is quite deep then JB weld, liquid metal or similar can be used to fill it up.

 

You obviously have a manual- the parts lists pictures are often quite useful for working out how things are fitted together. As an example do the 15 bits contain any additional bolts over and above the 4 allen screws we can see from the outside? Are there any springs (if so dismantle it carefully as springs have a nasty habit of distributing all the other small but vital parts to places where only the workshop gremlins will ever see them again.

 

Since you have a digi camera take lots of pics as you go so that all the bits can be put back the way they were as you re=-assemble.

 

Regards

N

[WotEver]

Since you have a digi camera take lots of pics as you go so that all the bits can be put back the way they were as you re=-assemble.

But he'll firstly have to find all the little bits that have fallen into the grease/mud/gunge/leaves/dust/fluff/hair (delete as appropriate) after the springs fired them

 

Getting back on topic, the answer as to whether it's weld (unlikely/impossible and it certainly doesn't look at all like brazing) or gasket goo will be instantly answered as soon as the first allen bolt is removed. If it's about 4" long, then it's gasket goo.

 

T

[kendo]

Sorted.

 

the bolts turned out to be 4". and the brass just plopped off into my hand.

there was no gasket between the cover and brass, but there was one between

the brass and engine block. (needless to say, in severe need of replacing).

 

the 'fiddly bits' came out in one assembly. so i just cleaned it up.

nothing pinged out. or rolled into the river.

 

Paul Hughes (friendly window repairer) overheard that I needed some new

gaskets, and suggested a company in Reading that makes them. I've ordered

two sets. for top and bottom of brass. And they've got the lumps so they can

size them up correctly.

 

really appreciate all your help in getting this figured out.

thankyou.

 

[WotEver]

I love it when a plan comes together