Getting BSS to launch.

[W+T]

Hello all, i in the early stages of fitting out my cruiser, now i hope to be able to launch it in about 4 months but it will not be completed, All the exterior will be done, obviousley, but he interior will still need a bit of work, by a bit i mean half done, i will more than liokley need some electrics and plumbing doing and lot of cosmetic work.

 

Can i get a BSS done so i can licence it so i can get it afloat and finish it of there whilst cruising a little.

 

Thanks fro any help

 

Wayne

[Grace and Favour]

Hello all, i in the early stages of fitting out my cruiser, now i hope to be able to launch it in about 4 months but it will not be completed, All the exterior will be done, obviousley, but he interior will still need a bit of work, by a bit i mean half done, i will more than liokley need some electrics and plumbing doing and lot of cosmetic work.

 

Can i get a BSS done so i can licence it so i can get it afloat and finish it of there whilst cruising a little.

 

Thanks fro any help

 

Wayne

Unfortunately - - the boat has to be in full working order in order that the BSS Polizai can inspect

BSS Guide

[gazza]

if you halt your fit out with no services, you can then have the bss done.

 

no electrics? nothing to test.

 

no gas? nothing to test.

 

the one thing that does need to be sorted is fuel system and possible battery if you have an electric start outboard.

 

this will get you on the water. of course, you will have it retested when everything is complete.........

[capnthommo]

i always understood that if it was fitted it must be safe, compliant and operative. but if it wasn't there, as gazza says, nothing to test.

for example, you might cook on board using a portable camping stove which is not, of course, acceptable for BSS purposes. so you leave it in the car when it's tested. not there: not testable.

same with electrics - anything fitted must be able to pass the test.

(i don't recommend using a camp stove BTW. just mentioning that that's what some people might do)

sorry, beating it to death a bit here.

cheers

nigel

[gazza]

it took me a fair while to complete the electrical system on my boat, main reason for that was it was better to be using it than fixing it!

 

the upcoming bss gave me a boot up the bum to finish it!

[casper ghost]

When I launched my boat I got a BSS even though I had hardly started the fit out. No problems, got a BSS which lasted 4 years as normal. You are meant to get them back in every time you add anything but in reality they know you won't get them back until the 4 years is up. With Sleepy Hollow we got an ecception certificate, which you only have to sign yourself just to say there is nothing to check. It lasts for 1 year.

[mayalld]

Unfortunately - - the boat has to be in full working order in order that the BSS Polizai can inspect

BSS Guide

 

Utterly, utterly wrong.

 

If a system is fitted, then it must be compliant, but if you haven't yet installed the gas or electric, it won't be tested.

[Grace and Favour]

Utterly, utterly wrong.

 

If a system is fitted, then it must be compliant, but if you haven't yet installed the gas or electric, it won't be tested.

 

Thank you Dave - - I've learnt something useful today - apologies for giving a bum steer to the OP

[W+T]

Nice one folks, so as long its in order to BSS then it will pass, even a empty shell with a engine.

Just want to get it on the water in a usable state.

 

Thanks for that folks, much appreciated.

 

Bit of a bummer though as i think the only mooring that i was in line for has gone, a bit of time to look for another though, and will find out tommoro for definate about it.

 

wayne

Edited February 26, 2010 by W+T

[GRPCruiserman]

I got a BSS on my Yeoman before I'd put any electrics or gas on, in fact it was 2 years before I put them on!!

 

With it being an outboard as long as the steering was safe and the electric start battery has a cut off switch (sorry, that was the only electrics!!), then it was fine. Ventalation came in to it then (some years ago) and I had to make sure that was OK but it didn't need much as I didn't have a cooker.

 

4 years later when I got it done again, it still passed with full gas installation, electrics everything, as I was able to fit them all to the required standard.

 

The original one I managed to negotiate a reduced price from the eaminer as he didn't have much to test (he was only there for 10 mins!!)

 

Go for it and get aloat!!

[Radiomariner]

BSS will examine on systems installed as quoted by other posters. They will not pass an incomplete installation. As mentioned you are supposed to get the examiner back if you alter, change or install further systems, also as mentioned few people do.

That only becomes a problem if there is an accident and investigation reveals any changes or new system then the insurers might not pay out. The safety of the boat is at all times the responsibility of the owner.

 

One other point. Is this a new boat? As you are fitting it out yourself I doubt if it will be RCD (Recriational Craft Directive) Compliant (forgive me for assuming this if I am wrong). In which case the BSS Examiner will request you to sign a declaration that you do not intend to sell the boat until it is over five years old.

Edited March 1, 2010 by Radiomariner

[W+T]

BSS will examine on systems installed as quoted by other posters. They will not pass an incomplete installation. As mentioned you are supposed to get the examiner back if you alter, change or install further systems, also as mentioned few people do.

That only becomes a problem if there is an accident and investigation reveals any changes or new system then the insurers might not pay out. The safety of the boat is at all times the responsibility of the owner.

 

One other point. Is this a new boat? As you are fitting it out yourself I doubt if it will be RCD (Recriational Craft Directive) Compliant (forgive me for assuming this if I am wrong). In which case the BSS Examiner will request you to sign a declaration that you do not intend to sell the boat until it is over five years old.

 

 

My cruiser is a creighton 26, built about 1975, from that i believe it will be void of the RCD.

 

As soon as it comes good weather to pain the hull and antifoul it i will be doing ht launch, hope end june 2010 that is LOL.

 

thanks for that

 

wayne

[ditchcrawler]

My cruiser is a creighton 26, built about 1975, from that i believe it will be void of the RCD.

 

As soon as it comes good weather to pain the hull and antifoul it i will be doing ht launch, hope end june 2010 that is LOL.

 

thanks for that

 

wayne

I'm not sure what antifoulings are allowed on the canals

[Naughty Cal]

I'm not sure what antifoulings are allowed on the canals

 

Any that dont kill off all of the fish life. Most modern antifould paints use copper as the main anti fouling ingerdient.

 

Taken from the RYA website this is useful info:

 

"Types of Fouling

 

Slime – This is caused by billions of singled celled algae, which produce slime as a safe medium to settle and develop in. Once an initial population of algae is established a suitable environment has been set up for more algae settle. As a result thick layers of slime can build up relatively quickly as the boat moving through the water is not enough to dislodge the slime.

 

Weed - When a boat is static in the water it attracts seaweeds to settle. The majority of these weeds are removed as soon as the vessel starts to make way through the water. However there are certain types of weed that take a strong enough hold to withstand the boat movement through the water.

 

Fouling animals e.g. Barnacles – These small creatures release millions of minute larvae into the water, all of which need to land on and attach to a static object to allow them to feed. Most boats when static provide a perfect feeding ground for these larvae to establish a strong hold.

 

The Antifouling Paints

 

Contents – The majority of antifouling paints produced in the UK are copper-based, in which the main biocide is cuprous oxide, the natural form of copper. The paints also contain other biocides in smaller quantities, know as booster biocides, and these include Zinc Pyrithione, Dichlofluanid and Zineb. There are also a variety of paints that are made up with a biocide called cuprous thiocyanate, which contains a less potent form of copper and these can be referred to as ‘copper free’ paints. However, cuprous thiocyanate-based antifouling paints are generally not as effective or long lasting as the copper-based biocides.

 

The biocide used is always displayed on the label of the tin and in the technical information associated with the paint.

 

Soft / Traditional Paints – These paints have generally been outdated by the newly developed paint technologies that have become available in recent years. The active ingredient, or biocide, within these paints is predominantly Cuprous Oxide and this is suspended within the paint matrix. This format allows it to leach out over time, along with the binder, leaving a honeycomb like coating that needs to be removed once every few years.

 

Erodible/ Self-Polishing Paints- These are the most widely used type of antifouling paints amongst recreational boat owners. They work through the process of ablation, which involves the controlled wearing of the antifoulant coating. As the layer of paint adjacent to the water dissolves, it removes any organisms that may be clinging to the hull, exposing a fresh layer of biocide to combat the further fouling that will occur. However, the surface of this paint layer is unstable so it is difficult for organisms to establish a firm hold on the surface of the hull and consequently less biocide is needed within the paint matrix to produce the required affect. This process leads to most of the initially applied paint to be washed away as the boat is used throughout the season, resulting in far less build up over the years and less work for the owner when it comes to reapplying antifouling.

 

Hard Paints –These antifoulants contain high levels of insoluble resin, producing a paint matrix that does not erode on contact with water. The process by which these paints work is known as contact leaching. The active ingredients within the paint resin are soluble and are packed in such a way that as each particle of biocide is in direct contact with another. This format means that once one particle is dissolved, the adjacent particle behind it then becomes exposed to the surrounding water.

 

Teflon – This is one of the most slippery materials available. The non-wetting properties of Teflon have lead to its widespread use in various water repellent materials such as Gore-Tex as well as in coating for easy clean surfaces. As a component of an antifouling paint, once applied it creates a smooth, low friction topcoat on the hull that acts to reduce drag and therefore improve performance. Teflon antifouling is unique, but acts as a hard antifouling as application results in a hard coating that is resistant to damage and is easily cleaned.

 

When Choosing an Antifouling Paint

 

The Vessel – There are some key points to note when it comes to applying an antifouling paint to the hull of your boat. These are the hull substrate, the boat type and the speed at which the boat will be travelling.

 

Hull Substrate:

 Aluminium - Copper based products must never be used on hulls, outdrives and propellers which are made of aluminium. This is because, when immersed in water the copper in the paint and the aluminium react to cause electrolysis, which in turn corrodes the aluminium on which the paint is applied. While no products containing cuprous oxide can be used on aluminium, products containing the biocide copper thiocyanate can be used on the assumption that primer layer has been applied first.

 Steel – If the new antifouling layer is not being added to over coat an existing antifoulant then a primer will need to be applied first to protect the hull substrate.

 

Boat Type/Speed:

 The majority of erodible paint manufacturers advise that their paint products of this type are suitable for boats travelling up to 25 knots. At 25 knots erodible paints become less effective at these speeds the paint layers can be worn away at an accelerated rate due to water abrasion. This may not be a problem for a vessel that is used at this speed on an irregular basis, but would not be suitable for a vessel such a motor cruiser doing over 25 knots on a regular basis.

 Hard antifouling, due to the fact it is resistant to abrasion, is ideal for high speed power boats, boats travelling above 25 knots and in rough seas regularly and also for racing yachts where a smooth hull can be achieved by polishing the antifouling with wet abrasive paper before the boats launch when required.

 

Geographical Location - Geographical location can play a major part in the type of fouling that can be present and therefore will influence the type of antifouling paint to be chosen.

 

Coastal / Saline water:

 The fouling prevention in coastal waters has to combat not only slime and weed but also animals such as barnacles, which can cause a considerable amount of damage if not dealt with and prevented. Coastal waters are subject to run off from industry, agriculture and in put form vessels emptying tanks at sea, which all act as feeders for fouling organisms. The tide also moves the water on a regular basis bringing more fouling with it at specific times if year.

 

Inland / Freshwater:

 There are alternative fouling problems found on inland freshwaters. The predominant fouling is identified as slime and fresh water weed, rather than animals such as barnacles. The waters are still or slow flowing, increasing the concentration of organisms in the water searching for a suitable surface to settle upon. These waters are also subject to agricultural run off, increasing the phosphate levels, acting as a fertilizer for fouling. Another issue is whether the water is hard or soft. There are reported problems of lime scale fouling in areas with very hard water. There are products that are made specifically for fresh waters, which are formulated to combat the unique problems found inland.

 

U.K. or Abroad:

 Whether your boat is kept in the cooler waters found around Britain and in the North sea or in the warmer waters of the Mediterranean, temperature has a significant affect on both the fouling present and the way antifouling paints work. For instance, paints designed for cold-water environment will not work in areas where the water temperature rises considerably during summer months. Here, more tropical fouling paints may be considered. However in lakes and rivers, where the water is deep and fresh, typical biocides do not work effectively and an inland alternative should be applied to the hull.

 

Mooring Situation

 

Dry Sail:

 When regularly taking the boat out of the water once a season antifouling has been applied can lead to the paint to degrade, whether it is hard, soft or erodible paint. All antifouling paint has a set maximum the boat can be out of the water after re-painting before it should be launched to preserve the newly applied paint. For the majority of paints the manufactures state a 3 month limit. Antifoul is a complex paint and once launched and recovered antifoul can start to degrade quite rapidly, to the point that performance can be significantly impacted just a week after being ashore. The advice given to boat owners if the boat has to be out of the water and it is not being worked on, is to regularly wet the hull with salt water, which will keep it damp and mitigate the effect of ultra violet light on the paint particles.

 

Drying Moorings:

 A hard antifouling is advised if your boat is moored at a location that dries out each low tide. Due to the nature of hard antifouling, it is resistant to abrasion and therefore is ideal for boats that are exposed to the mud, light and air for parts of the tidal cycle each day.

 

Deep Water Moorings:

 In this situation the hull is permanently submersed in the water, whether it be fresh or saline. Factors to consider in this case is whether the water is flowing and at what pace e.g.: tidal or river. "

[Naughty Cal]

We are trying this antifoul this year. Not sure how it will perform, but thought we would give it a go. We picked a tin up for £30 at the boat jumble, the manufacturer had a stall there. He seemed to know his stuff so we thought we would give it a go. At a third of the cost of the Cruiser Uno it had on previously if it works it will be a bargain. If not, well she will need lifting again

 

We have put the first coat on and it applied easily with an even finish. The colour isnt the royal navy blue we expected, but non the less it is an acceptable colour and when dry the first coat had a nice even finish and colour. We will apply the second coat this weekend, weather dependant,. The 2.5 litre tin will be more than enough to give our 25ft cruiser two coats, but that may be because of the hull shape, a more square hull of a similar length may require two tins.