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Top box


Tigerr

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Hope a member can advise me.

I want to make 2 neat top boxes for the boat, that don't look too out of place. (control the junkyard) My design is to be as simple as possible - self-floor using the cabin roof, and curve the ends to match roof curve, with a bit of tumblehome on the sides to match topsides. Roof will be cratch-cover material. Also desogned to take apart very quickly to go under low bridges - simple brass bolts.

 

The cutting of fine angles and curves is key so I am going to get that done by a pro - to get a neat kit that I can finish, build, and cover.

 

Issue is what wood. Spoke with a local joiner and looked at e.g. oily hardwood which was very expensive, and he proposed using 12mm birchply, and treat it with danish oil in preference to varnish for weatherproofing. Said varnish in such an exposed place will decay too quick, and that thorough oiling is good against water ingress and rot.

 

Birch Ply is certainly cheaper but what is the expert panel view. Does it weather well with oiling? I had imagined that marine ply would be required but he assures me that is not the case.

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Hope a member can advise me.

I want to make 2 neat top boxes for the boat, that don't look too out of place. (control the junkyard) My design is to be as simple as possible - self-floor using the cabin roof, and curve the ends to match roof curve, with a bit of tumblehome on the sides to match topsides. Roof will be cratch-cover material. Also desogned to take apart very quickly to go under low bridges - simple brass bolts.

 

The cutting of fine angles and curves is key so I am going to get that done by a pro - to get a neat kit that I can finish, build, and cover.

 

Issue is what wood. Spoke with a local joiner and looked at e.g. oily hardwood which was very expensive, and he proposed using 12mm birchply, and treat it with danish oil in preference to varnish for weatherproofing. Said varnish in such an exposed place will decay too quick, and that thorough oiling is good against water ingress and rot.

 

Birch Ply is certainly cheaper but what is the expert panel view. Does it weather well with oiling? I had imagined that marine ply would be required but he assures me that is not the case.

 

Welcome to the forum. :lol:

 

I think no matter how well you try to preserve ply, the weather will get to it in the end. I used to have a pigeon box made of ply but after trying for years to preserve it, finally I gave up and made another in hard wood.

The cabin roof on the butty is wood and I've been successful (so far, after three years, at any rate) by covering it in epoxy resin.

BTW A good source of cheapish hard wood is reclaimed floorboards.

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Hope a member can advise me.

I want to make 2 neat top boxes for the boat, that don't look too out of place. (control the junkyard) My design is to be as simple as possible - self-floor using the cabin roof, and curve the ends to match roof curve, with a bit of tumblehome on the sides to match topsides. Roof will be cratch-cover material. Also desogned to take apart very quickly to go under low bridges - simple brass bolts.

 

The cutting of fine angles and curves is key so I am going to get that done by a pro - to get a neat kit that I can finish, build, and cover.

 

Issue is what wood. Spoke with a local joiner and looked at e.g. oily hardwood which was very expensive, and he proposed using 12mm birchply, and treat it with danish oil in preference to varnish for weatherproofing. Said varnish in such an exposed place will decay too quick, and that thorough oiling is good against water ingress and rot.

 

Birch Ply is certainly cheaper but what is the expert panel view. Does it weather well with oiling? I had imagined that marine ply would be required but he assures me that is not the case.

 

Probably not your cup of tea, made from welded polypropylene.

 

 

32ChurchLockcopy.jpg

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Probably not your cup of tea, made from welded polypropylene.

 

 

32ChurchLockcopy.jpg

 

I saw this when you posted originally and I think it is great - neatly designed with roof curve and drip sill, low base height etc. Don't have easy access to a poly fabricator though, which is why I went the route I am looking at.

 

Have looked at loads of 'wood' boxes on boats and my observation is that most are just badly designed ugly box bodges that don't 'belong' on top of a nb, and certainly not my nb. If one has to have a box to control the junk then I reckon the view from the stern needs to be pleasing to the eye with consistent lines - curved and angled to fit. I am going to spend a lot of time looking at it and don't want to be constantly reminded of by diy bodge or poor cover fit etc!

 

My ideal would be mahogany wood with brass bits and a curved lockable chest-lid, which would look lovely but this was abandoned quickly as the cost and technical aspects were unfeasible. I know my design will still look right, but my question is specifically about birch ply - is it weatherproof if oiled? Or do I need to specify marine ply (cost goes up bigtime).

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I did make my box in WBP ply originally but it proved to be too tricky in the end, though I finished it it didn't look right, messy on the corners etc and that was why I went for polyprop, much neater and cheaper + no probs with painting etc. In fact the chap who made my cratch cover also makes top boxes but has had trouble with de-laminating of marine ply and is considering buying a polyprop welder and going our route.

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I saw this when you posted originally and I think it is great - neatly designed with roof curve and drip sill, low base height etc. Don't have easy access to a poly fabricator though, which is why I went the route I am looking at.

 

Have looked at loads of 'wood' boxes on boats and my observation is that most are just badly designed ugly box bodges that don't 'belong' on top of a nb, and certainly not my nb. If one has to have a box to control the junk then I reckon the view from the stern needs to be pleasing to the eye with consistent lines - curved and angled to fit. I am going to spend a lot of time looking at it and don't want to be constantly reminded of by diy bodge or poor cover fit etc!

 

My ideal would be mahogany wood with brass bits and a curved lockable chest-lid, which would look lovely but this was abandoned quickly as the cost and technical aspects were unfeasible. I know my design will still look right, but my question is specifically about birch ply - is it weatherproof if oiled? Or do I need to specify marine ply (cost goes up bigtime).

 

If you are going to use a ply at all ( in my opinion solid mature hardwood is the material you should use) then use Marine ply - - and still be prepared for the box to have a shorter life than with hardwood.

 

I suppose it all depends upon what you want the finished article to look like - how much effort you put into making it - and how long you want it to last - - the truth is that you get what you pay for - -

 

Whilst the best materials will always cost more - one can never get an A grade product using B grade materials

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Are suggesting that Hampton is filled with crap? :lol:

 

I do keep suggesting to Herself that we ought to have a butty, just to fill with our books!

 

But of course, our engine hasn't really enough grunt, so we'd have to get a motor too. Oh, what a pity....

Edited by FadeToScarlet
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Surely the solution to top box issue is not to have so much 'crap' or have a butty like the Owls

 

Brilliant! Why didn't I think of that? Doh! The answer was there all along, what a dumbo I am for not spotting that one! Thanks for that padders. Don't know why I asked the question in the first place now.

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self-floor using the cabin roof, and curve the ends to match roof curve, with a bit of tumblehome on the sides to match topsides. Roof will be cratch-cover material. Also desogned to take apart very quickly to go under low bridges - simple brass bolts.

 

This does not seem to be a good idea, wear and tear on the paintwork, lack of drainage.

 

You will have to be quick and.............................where will you put all the 'crap' when you do so. :lol:

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