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can any one say how long a steel water tank with a epcol lining will last from new.

how oftern does it need repainting.

asume a livabord usage

would a stainless be better value over time?

I am hearing of quite a few stainless tanks that are springing leaks (a welder told me the seams should be "pickled and something elsed" after welding but rarely are). Mine is Ok to date (coming up to 6 years) but I often have a glance underneath when getting stuff out of the locker where it lives. I like the idea of not having to paint inside it though; that was the worst job I ever did on our previous boat.

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can any one say how long a steel water tank with a epcol lining will last from new.

how oftern does it need repainting.

asume a livabord usage

would a stainless be better value over time?

 

 

Just tried to Google "epcol" and got nothing to do with water tanks so please what is an "epcol lining"

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I am hearing of quite a few stainless tanks that are springing leaks (a welder told me the seams should be "pickled and something elsed" after welding but rarely are). Mine is Ok to date (coming up to 6 years) but I often have a glance underneath when getting stuff out of the locker where it lives. I like the idea of not having to paint inside it though; that was the worst job I ever did on our previous boat.

 

Been said before but some s/s needs oxygen to be corrosion proof, they will corrode underwater. Polypropylene is safest bet if you can't ensure correct grade of s/s

Edited by nb Innisfree
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its what piperboats spec for there water tanks. i could not find anything eather. i think its some sort of 2 pack system!

 

In that case one small pin prick not covered or the tiniest piece of damage to the skin and rust will eventually lift the surface. However it may make an good easy clean base for regular tank blacking.

 

Good quality stainless from an experienced marine tank maker WITH certification showing grade and adequate internal bracing would be my choice.

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In that case one small pin prick not covered or the tiniest piece of damage to the skin and rust will eventually lift the surface. However it may make an good easy clean base for regular tank blacking.

 

Good quality stainless from an experienced marine tank maker WITH certification showing grade and adequate internal bracing would be my choice.

 

How often is "regular tank blacking"?

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any idear on cost 1000l tank materials only

Shouldn't be too bad as it is only "special" blacking that is used. I seem to remember about 30 quid did my tank, but that was smaller than yours, plus it was a while ago now. Midland Chandlers sell suitable stuff. DO NOT USE STANDARD BLACKING!!

Some people use rust converter I believe, if the tank is very rusty. Seemingly it goes on very economically leaving a hard black surface requiring no further paint. I am unsure which particular make is water potable. Might be Vactan, but not 100% sure.

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Shouldn't be too bad as it is only "special" blacking that is used. I seem to remember about 30 quid did my tank, but that was smaller than yours, plus it was a while ago now. Midland Chandlers sell suitable stuff.

Nope, should be a lot less than that!,

 

We have a very large tank, and a 1 litre can proved enough for two generous coats.

 

That's still only just over £7 at Midland Chandler's pricing.

 

We chose to Vactan it first - time will tell if it lasts longer before the brown starts to come out the taps, but it's looking promising so far.

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My old Victoria, an M.C.C. boat from Stenson has a stainless tank. fitted from new obviously & she's 18yrs old now. I've ran her out of water a few times over the years, but have never had any brown gunge or particles of rust coming through the pluming. I can only guess that the internals are still as new, with no corrosion.

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