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Heating a boat


AlanH

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Well that is pretty straightforward then. As my boat was bought from NBC, I can't use my £2.5k Eberspacher central heating system that was fitted, because it was not suitable as a 24/7 heater or for the fuel available, so it eventually rolled over and died. My stove that ran continuously for 6 months last Winter and has already been continuously alight for the last 5 weeks, should be allowed to go out, as it may kill me if if has not been installed to a presently non existent standard, which will be determined by a stove fitting company! Its reassuring to know that I will be much safer living in a cold damp sub zero environment for the rest of the Winter. I'd also better not light the gas stove in case my triple layer Winter woolies don't have the required fire resistng label. I think I'll just kill myself now as I am too incompetent to handle the risks in living.

 

Roger

 

Hi Roger

 

Before you go and kill yourself, if you google factors relating to chimney draft. It throws up numerous things which could open a huge can of worms in respect to stoves on boats.

Available air, competition for available air, flue temp internal and external, and a host of other factors affecting the draft of a chimney.

Surely if a stove has a certain level of draft say to remove the smoke from a smoke pellet when the stove is cold then that should be the min level required, as the efficiency should increase as the flue (chimney) gases increase in temp.

As others have said it's going to be another nanny state / anti litigation, not my fault Jack,rule.

Well ok if it has to be so be it, the regs already exist for commercial and domestic gas boilers re flue draft. It should not be that difficult to transpose those regs in accordance with levels appropriate for solid fuel stoves.

Some of the oil stove manufacturers already state advisory figures for flue drafts,these are usually ignored as to obtain them you would need a 6' chimney outside the boat. which brings us full circle to what Gary is pointing out.

Commercial builders can not afford to ignore figures advisory or otherwise.

 

PS :lol: Smiley is for anti litigation for the following suggestion

 

Roger if you are going to kill yourself why not do it in comfort and use your solid fuel stove. :lol:

Edited by Big COL
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One assumes the notices at Stoke Bruerne are for the benefit of the sometimes hundreds of onlookers in the summer, who can cross far more safely on the adjacent small bridge, and not for boaters. So, although I agree with your sentiment, I don't think the Stoke Bruerne example is a good illustration of it.

 

Chris

Hi Chris,

At a superficial level I would agree with you but the following points occur to me:

1. It is inconvenient for me to use the bridge when using the lock so I am left in a dilemma about whether to ignore

the notices or not. (the notice does not say "with the exception of lock operators")

2. Just how hazardous is it to cross the gate (fitted with non slip surfaces and hand rails)? How many serious accidents

occur as a result of non boaters crossing lock gates?

3. Why are BW better able to judge that any individual should not be crossing the gate than that individual is him/herself?

4. Are there any hidden dangers that people are would not be aware of without being told? If not leave the responsibility

for making the decision in the hands of the individual.

5. Why should all boaters be more capable of crossing the gates than the general public? And if they are not, then to

be consistent, similar notices be posted at all locks where bridges are in close proximity and the public have access?

 

 

It is not that I think these notices constitute a particularly major issue in isolation, but when I come across examples of authorities feeling the need to nanny me and treat me as an idiot every day, I do get cheesed off.

 

Rob

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Well that is pretty straightforward then. As my boat was bought from NBC, I can't use my £2.5k Eberspacher central heating system that was fitted, because it was not suitable as a 24/7 heater or for the fuel available, so it eventually rolled over and died. My stove that ran continuously for 6 months last Winter and has already been continuously alight for the last 5 weeks, should be allowed to go out, as it may kill me if if has not been installed to a presently non existent standard, which will be determined by a stove fitting company! Its reassuring to know that I will be much safer living in a cold damp sub zero environment for the rest of the Winter. I'd also better not light the gas stove in case my triple layer Winter woolies don't have the required fire resistng label. I think I'll just kill myself now as I am too incompetent to handle the risks in living.

 

Roger

 

Roger

had a conversation with NBC about this. I have never had a problem with my Webastco except the fact that it won't run for 24 hours as I can not charge my batteries enough to enable this to happen so only use it early Autumn or late spring when you can sudenly get a cold spell. I am now in my third winter and have always had my fire on 24/7. This does only effect the SP60 from what i can gather, anyway they had no solution for me not that I was going to let my fire go out.

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Roger if you are going to kill yourself why not do it in comfort and use your solid fuel stove. :lol:

 

I have decided to take this option and just thrown a couple of logs on. I have also left a note clearing you of any resposibility for my actions :lol:

 

Roger

 

Roger

had a conversation with NBC about this. I have never had a problem with my Webastco except the fact that it won't run for 24 hours as I can not charge my batteries enough to enable this to happen so only use it early Autumn or late spring when you can sudenly get a cold spell. I am now in my third winter and have always had my fire on 24/7. This does only effect the SP60 from what i can gather, anyway they had no solution for me not that I was going to let my fire go out.

 

John,

I'm pleased I am not the only one opting for an early death by logs :lol:

 

Your comment on batteries and the Webasto, reminded me of how I always seemed to be getting low batteries when using my Eber for heating. Thats probably what killed the batteries, something which doesn't come up very often when talking about these types of heaters

 

Roger

Edited by Roger Gunkel
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My choice of heating will be Refleks with back boiler:

 

Why?

 

No battery drain (although I would fit a small in line pump for the radiators)

Clean (I accept there is some maintenance)

You have a focal point of the heater which is where most heat comes from

Silent (you will understand this if you have an Ebrspacher or Mikuni)

Purchase price is comparable to other systems

Looks good

You see the flame

 

Against

 

Slow to heat the water tank

Takes more than throwing a switch to set it off

May have limited capability to heat radiators

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Hi Chris,

At a superficial level I would agree with you but the following points occur to me:

1. It is inconvenient for me to use the bridge when using the lock so I am left in a dilemma about whether to ignore

the notices or not. (the notice does not say "with the exception of lock operators")

2. Just how hazardous is it to cross the gate (fitted with non slip surfaces and hand rails)? How many serious accidents

occur as a result of non boaters crossing lock gates?

3. Why are BW better able to judge that any individual should not be crossing the gate than that individual is him/herself?

4. Are there any hidden dangers that people are would not be aware of without being told? If not leave the responsibility

for making the decision in the hands of the individual.

5. Why should all boaters be more capable of crossing the gates than the general public? And if they are not, then to

be consistent, similar notices be posted at all locks where bridges are in close proximity and the public have access?

 

 

It is not that I think these notices constitute a particularly major issue in isolation, but when I come across examples of authorities feeling the need to nanny me and treat me as an idiot every day, I do get cheesed off.

 

Rob

I think you need to get out more Rob :lol:

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I have decided to take this option and just thrown a couple of logs on. I have also left a note clearing you of any resposibility for my actions :lol:

 

 

What have you written the note on, Roger? Hope it's not flammable :lol:

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My choice of heating will be Refleks with back boiler:

 

Why?

 

No battery drain (although I would fit a small in line pump for the radiators)

Clean (I accept there is some maintenance)

You have a focal point of the heater which is where most heat comes from

Silent (you will understand this if you have an Ebrspacher or Mikuni)

Purchase price is comparable to other systems

Looks good

You see the flame

 

Against

 

Slow to heat the water tank

Takes more than throwing a switch to set it off

May have limited capability to heat radiators

Will you sell me your beautiful SF burner, then?

 

 

 

self%202%20626.jpg

Edited by carlt
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Hi,

 

Kabola 'Old Dutch' with a back boiler, excellent, runs 24/7 from a dedicated 50 gallon tank, needs a good clean out about once every 3 to 4 weeks and a filter change once a year. Runs an 'Eco Fan',

Economical as well. I generally leave mine on the lowest possible setting, otherwise the boat gets too hot.

 

Leo

This is the same as ours and we heat a 54! no probs. (with the Eco fan). Most of the time its on low or pilot else it just get too hot, especially when cooking. I wouldn't swap it for the world, in fact at the moment I am at work, absolutely brass monkeys and would much rather be at home nice and warm.

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Hi,

 

Kabola 'Old Dutch' with a back boiler, excellent, runs 24/7 from a dedicated 50 gallon tank, needs a good clean out about once every 3 to 4 weeks and a filter change once a year. Runs an 'Eco Fan',

Economical as well. I generally leave mine on the lowest possible setting, otherwise the boat gets too hot.

 

Leo

 

If running 24/7 how much deisel does it use a month please ?

Edited by Lesd
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Will you sell me your beautiful SF burner, then?

 

 

 

self%202%20626.jpg

 

 

The SF burner looks better than it performs. There is no way to regulate it, there is no air control so you have to be carefull to push the ash drawer fully home to reduce the air intake otherwise it will overheat, you have to get used to its way of operating like not putting too much coal on, again to regulate the speed of burning. I am planning a replacement boat and wont have SF but will go for a reflecks (or similar oil dripper)

 

Charles

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