FadeToScarlet Posted October 7, 2008 Report Share Posted October 7, 2008 Hello all, The throttle arm- the perforated disk with a 4" lever attached- on my BMC has snapped, and I can't seem to find anywhere locally that stocks them. Has anyone got a URL for somewhere that might have one, so I can order online? Or is there anyone who could fabricate a replacement, if I were to supply details? The other possibility is to fix the snapped pieces together; epoxy putty, perhaps? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_fincher Posted October 7, 2008 Report Share Posted October 7, 2008 The usual suspects for BMC parts are.... Calcutt Boats - No online listing of parts, so you need to discuss requirements. AMC Thorneycroft - Ditto. ASAP Supplies - Parts listed online, but I don't remember seeing the part you are describing. A "Google"" should find any, but if stuck ask, and I'll supply the link. Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FadeToScarlet Posted October 7, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2008 No luck with any of them, without buying the whole fuel pump. Will have to bodge something together... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Schweizer Posted October 7, 2008 Report Share Posted October 7, 2008 Two suggestions. This pump was fitted to a lot of engines, you may be lucky and find one in a scrapyard. Alteratively do you know anyone who is handy with a welding/brazing torch. it would only take a couple of minutes to weld or braze the two bits together. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_fincher Posted October 7, 2008 Report Share Posted October 7, 2008 I'm not sure there's anything special about it is there ? I'm not on the boat to check but... At one end it just goes over the spindle on the injection pump, with a nut holding it on, I think. At the other the linkages are attached. There is probably one hole part way along for a return spring. I cant for the life of me remember why it's perforated at the round end of the "banjo". Do the little perforations serve any purpose at all. If not all you need is a bit of slightly cranked steel, with maybe 3 holes cut in it. (Now tell me I'm describing the wrong part!....) Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Schweizer Posted October 8, 2008 Report Share Posted October 8, 2008 I'm not sure there's anything special about it is there ? I'm not on the boat to check but... At one end it just goes over the spindle on the injection pump, with a nut holding it on, I think. At the other the linkages are attached. There is probably one hole part way along for a return spring. I cant for the life of me remember why it's perforated at the round end of the "banjo". Do the little perforations serve any purpose at all. If not all you need is a bit of slightly cranked steel, with maybe 3 holes cut in it. (Now tell me I'm describing the wrong part!....) Alan Looking at the Exploded diagram it would appear that the the centre hole in the banjo is round, which means it could slip under pressure and would be difficult to adjust. The holes around the edge of the banjo appear to enagble the lever to be "locked" onto a pin on the inner disc, which has an elongated centre hole. Does that description make sense? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted October 8, 2008 Report Share Posted October 8, 2008 I'm not sure there's anything special about it is there ? I'm not on the boat to check but... At one end it just goes over the spindle on the injection pump, with a nut holding it on, I think. At the other the linkages are attached. There is probably one hole part way along for a return spring. I cant for the life of me remember why it's perforated at the round end of the "banjo". Do the little perforations serve any purpose at all. If not all you need is a bit of slightly cranked steel, with maybe 3 holes cut in it. (Now tell me I'm describing the wrong part!....) Alan Some are a"two part" setup, a perforated disk that is fixed to the spindle and an arm with two "tits" on it that match the holes in the disk but having an oversize centre hole. This allows the position of the actual lever to be altered relative to the pump. If the poster can tell me its just the arm that has broke and if a single part one will do I will see if I have one on an old pump. Picked up from Reading or Sawely this or next weekend. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted October 8, 2008 Report Share Posted October 8, 2008 Some are a"two part" setup, a perforated disk that is fixed to the spindle and an arm with two "tits" on it that match the holes in the disk but having an oversize centre hole. This allows the position of the actual lever to be altered relative to the pump. If the poster can tell me its just the arm that has broke and if a single part one will do I will see if I have one on an old pump. Picked up from Reading or Sawely this or next weekend. Sorry - cancel the offer. Must be more common than I thought, they are missing from my pumps. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PaddingtonBear Posted October 8, 2008 Report Share Posted October 8, 2008 (edited) Just get Moomin to pass his hands over it and all will be well, especially as he seems to have added BMC engines to his already long list of competencies. Edited October 8, 2008 by PaddingtonBear Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
alan_fincher Posted October 8, 2008 Report Share Posted October 8, 2008 Does that description make sense? Yes perfect sense ? Some are a"two part" setup, a perforated disk that is fixed to the spindle and an arm with two "tits" on it that match the holes in the disk but having an oversize centre hole. This allows the position of the actual lever to be altered relative to the pump. OK understood. But provided OP knows which oles he has anything, (pin, spindle, spring, whatever) through, then it should be easy to run up something bespoke, and which will work as well as the original. They don't need all the other possible adjustments, just something to match how it is until now. From memory it may need a bit of a crank in it, if it's to align properly with those nasty looking linkages. (Don't have my parts book at home to look). Alan Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tony Brooks Posted October 8, 2008 Report Share Posted October 8, 2008 Yes perfect sense ? OK understood. But provided OP knows which oles he has anything, (pin, spindle, spring, whatever) through, then it should be easy to run up something bespoke, and which will work as well as the original. They don't need all the other possible adjustments, just something to match how it is until now. From memory it may need a bit of a crank in it, if it's to align properly with those nasty looking linkages. (Don't have my parts book at home to look). Alan I think the easiest way would be to take the two bits round the back of the local car body shop and drop the welder a fiver. One problem is that the inner disk (the one with holes) carries little platforms that hit the idle and maximum speed stops. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MoominPapa Posted October 9, 2008 Report Share Posted October 9, 2008 Just get Moomin to pass his hands over it and all will be well, especially as he seems to have added BMC engines to his already long list of competencies. Hmmm, you've not seen an example of my welding, have you? MP. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PeterG Posted October 9, 2008 Report Share Posted October 9, 2008 Sorry - cancel the offer. Must be more common than I thought, they are missing from my pumps. The throttle arm on these pumps tend to be poorly made (cheap) and not designed to cope with the extra large springs people put on them when fitted in boats. When I used to work for a certain supplier of these pumps I remember they were produced on a very worn out machine tool. The vast majority of the arm is not super critical in dimensions but there are some areas which have to be close, therefore welding up an old one is the best bet. Unfortunately the factory has long been flattened and replaced with houses so I am unable to acquire you any now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FadeToScarlet Posted October 9, 2008 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2008 Hi all, I've got some steel-reinforced epoxy putty, and I'm going to try and fix the original back together with that. Apparently, this putty can be machined, drilled and tapped when it's hard, so if I make the joint properly it should hopefully be as good as a weld. I'll keep everyone posted as to whether or not it works... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Black Ibis Posted October 10, 2008 Report Share Posted October 10, 2008 Hi all, I've got some steel-reinforced epoxy putty, and I'm going to try and fix the original back together with that. Apparently, this putty can be machined, drilled and tapped when it's hard, so if I make the joint properly it should hopefully be as good as a weld. I'll keep everyone posted as to whether or not it works... It didn't. I wasn't convinced from the beginning! However, a friend has offered to give as a suitably sized piece of Aluminium which should work temporarily. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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