Bilge and gas locker rust removal/painting advice

[HenryFreeman]

Looking for some words of wisdom of how best to sort the gas locker and bilge on my boat. I'll probably start with the gas locker as I think that'll be the easy win.

 

So looking in it the other day I discovered it's a bit rusty although after a good brushing down, it's about 95% better. What would be the steps I need to go through to get it in decent nick? More rust removal I'd assume.. wire brush? What would be the rust treatment of choice? Vactan? Fertan? And then once that's done it's job, straight on with a bilge/locker paint or does it need a coat something below that?

 

I'd assume similar process for the bilge, just more of it?

 

Thanks!

[TandC]

Having done bilge and gas lockers several times, I find the best tool is a wire-cup brush in a small angle grinder.   You need ear defenders, gloves, decent overalls and absolutely eye protection and a decent mask.  Along with strong arms and a general sense of bravery....  If you can run a hoover / extractor in the space at the same time it will help keep the airborne dust down and will help stop too much debris flying about. 

 

You'll get the best finish that way.

 

Having gone to all that effort - and it is a horrible job - don't skimp the next stages.

 

Toolstation no-nonsense degreaser - dilute it down and rinse out with a rag, water, bucket.   It is really boring... you'll want to just get on painting - but it is worth doing it properly.   Let it dry.  Keep doing it til the rag comes away clean.  Very boring - but you'll have the best surface to paint onto. 

 

Then get yourself some Jotamastic 87.  It's two part epoxy.   It costs only slightly more than other primer/paints but is the bees knees.   tin of paint, the hardner, and a can of thinners.   Then use the toolstation solvent-resistnant rollers and get it on.  Paintbrush for all the nooks. 

 

Do as many coats as you can - 3 is good to aim for.

 

Before:

 

 

 

I actually ended up hiring a Hilti nail gun for some of those rust pits as you get this sort of hard black scale, a form of rust, but much much harder and it won't come off even with a wire brush.  But that is if your rust has gotten that bad.... and to be honest, was probably overkill but i got carried away. 

Edited August 15, 2023 by TandC

[HenryFreeman]

23 minutes ago, TandC said:

Having done bilge and gas lockers several times, I find the best tool is a wire-cup brush in a small angle grinder.   You need ear defenders, gloves, decent overalls and absolutely eye protection and a decent mask.  Along with strong arms and a general sense of bravery....  If you can run a hoover / extractor in the space at the same time it will help keep the airborne dust down and will help stop too much debris flying about. 

 

You'll get the best finish that way.

 

Having gone to all that effort - and it is a horrible job - don't skimp the next stages.

 

Toolstation no-nonsense degreaser - dilute it down and rinse out with a rag, water, bucket.   It is really boring... you'll want to just get on painting - but it is worth doing it properly.   Let it dry.  Keep doing it til the rag comes away clean.  Very boring - but you'll have the best surface to paint onto. 

 

Then get yourself some Jotamastic 87.  It's two part epoxy.   It costs only slightly more than other primer/paints but is the bees knees.   tin of paint, the hardner, and a can of thinners.   Then use the toolstation solvent-resistnant rollers and get it on.  Paintbrush for all the nooks. 

 

Do as many coats as you can - 3 is good to aim for.

 

Perfect, thank you. This is a big help!

[Peugeot 106]

Bloody hell that looks good. And I thought it was only me that was accused of paranoia. Bet there’s a bit you missed hidden away that really niggles though! If you get withdrawal symptoms and ever fancy doing another one..........?

Nice Job

 

[dmr]

47 minutes ago, TandC said:

Having done bilge and gas lockers several times, I find the best tool is a wire-cup brush in a small angle grinder.   You need ear defenders, gloves, decent overalls and absolutely eye protection and a decent mask.  Along with strong arms and a general sense of bravery....  If you can run a hoover / extractor in the space at the same time it will help keep the airborne dust down and will help stop too much debris flying about. 

 

You'll get the best finish that way.

 

Having gone to all that effort - and it is a horrible job - don't skimp the next stages.

 

Toolstation no-nonsense degreaser - dilute it down and rinse out with a rag, water, bucket.   It is really boring... you'll want to just get on painting - but it is worth doing it properly.   Let it dry.  Keep doing it til the rag comes away clean.  Very boring - but you'll have the best surface to paint onto. 

 

Then get yourself some Jotamastic 87.  It's two part epoxy.   It costs only slightly more than other primer/paints but is the bees knees.   tin of paint, the hardner, and a can of thinners.   Then use the toolstation solvent-resistnant rollers and get it on.  Paintbrush for all the nooks. 

 

Do as many coats as you can - 3 is good to aim for.

 

 

 

There is now Jotamastic 90 which I assume is a bit better than 87. It normally comes in black but all colours are available so go for a light grey like in your photos.

Yes, derust and epoxy is the only way to go (assuming you plan to keep the boat for a few years)

[TandC]

It was horrendous.   It was up on blocks on hardstanding when I did the nail-gunning so was like a huge drum.  I had dense ear plugs in as well as high grade defenders over the top.  People moored a half mile away commented on the noise...

 

That jotamastic is the stuff tho.   I hadn't used two-pack before but it;s a doddle - get a set of digital scales and it's easy to weigh precisely the right amounts, a splash of thinners to loosen it up and it rollered on nice.   That was a year ago and it looks the same - any dust and dirt wipes off.  

 

SML paints supplied it - and get a few plastic tubs and mixing sticks, a pack of gloves, while you're at ti to make your life easier. 

 

 

1 minute ago, dmr said:

 

There is now Jotamastic 90 which I assume is a bit better than 87. It normally comes in black but all colours are available so go for a light grey like in your photos.

Yes, derust and epoxy is the only way to go (assuming you plan to keep the boat for a few years)

Think the 90 is more intended as an epoxy blacking product, as that's what i am having sprayed onto my new hull and baseplate.  Although I am sure it would be as good or better than the 87, not sure what the price difference is, but my experience is that it's probably not necessary unless the price is negligible.   SM

 

The 87 also comes in an aluminium flake version for even greater resistance but i don't think that was necessary.   

 

 

 

 

 

[HenryFreeman]

20 minutes ago, dmr said:

 

There is now Jotamastic 90 which I assume is a bit better than 87. It normally comes in black but all colours are available so go for a light grey like in your photos.

Yes, derust and epoxy is the only way to go (assuming you plan to keep the boat for a few years)

 

Jotamastic 90 is what went on my boat during its respray. The paint shop insisted that was the stuff to go for. Looks the part.