Lister petter Lpws3 exhaust spitting/ leak

[Peugeot 106]

1 minute ago, Tgno3 said:

well you certainly have persuasion skills !

I also find it interesting hence asking so many questions and wanting to figure it out.  

I’m going to have a bash at it, worse case scenario the engineer who is already coming out can fix but sounds like not much can go wrong ? 

 

If you’re like me you will probably bang your head on the hatch surround. Always have gaffer tape handy. For your wounds not the boats! Don’t worry i agonise  over everything I do. Not to is fine but you can make yourself a lot of trouble. I’ve had a lot of help off this forum

[Steve56]

8 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

So unless it is oil down the valve guides or up past the pistons then the oil leaking past the head gasket is another highly questionable statement.

It would certainly seem that way. On the Alpha range of engines the oil feed to the rockers is up through the centre of the hollow push rods, then draining back down the pushrod tubes themselves. With tubes being  totally independent of the head gasket.

[Tony Brooks]

Another off the wall possibility for the dripping sound.

 

If you have a calorifier for hot water then on or close to the hot outlet it should have a PRV (pressure relief valve) that is there to vent pressure as the water within is heated. On a good boat there should also be some kind of expansion vessel that allows for the expansion without opening the PRV. 

 

If the calorifier is in the engine bay the PRV's outlet port may just be left open. If it is inside the boat then the outlet is often routed into the engine bay. In either case the PRV leaking may well cause the dripping sound.

 

To test this, next time you hear the dripping turn the domestic water pump off and open a hot tap to release the pressure on the PRV. If the dripping stops you have probably found the cause.

 

The causes could be:

 

Water pump cut out pressure is too high.

 

Any expansion vessel has lost its air pressure or the pressure is way too high.

 

The valve seat is scaled up or has trapped a bit of muck. In this case locate the PRV, and it should have a plastic knob on top. With the water pump turned on give the knob a few twists, you will feel the valve being lifted and released. With a bit of luck the flow through the valve will flush any scale or muck off the seat.

 

Some PRV outlets run to a skin fitting but at night you might still hear water dripping outside the boat.

[ditchcrawler]

3 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

Some PRV outlets run to a skin fitting but at night you might still hear water dripping outside the boat.

Its quite surprising how loud that can be. we have had rain water dip from the end of a centre line outside and its plane to hear

[Tgno3]

On 02/01/2023 at 13:58, Tony Brooks said:

 

 

Now the coolant leak. How full are you filling the header tank? On a skin tank cooled boat you need a considerable air gap above the coolant. If you fill to the brim it will overflow as the engine warms up and a new filler cap can not stop that. The leaking coolant will collect in the drip tray with any oil or fuel floating on top, so your supposed oil leak might just be the coolant leak. Fill the header tank to the brim just once, run up to normal temperature, allow to cool right down, note the level in the header tank - that is the correct topping up lever.

 

If there is air or gas in the skin tank it will    cause even more coolant to be ejected from the header tank, so try venting your  skin tank, just in case.

 

 

Edited January 5, 2023 by Tgno3

[Tgno3]

Thanks Steve this is good to kno!

and Tony good to rule things out so I will have a look tmrw along with testing the header tank and the exhaust manifold. 
question which may seem simple but just want to clarify- buy filling up to the brim do u mean right up to the the opening of the header tank or the line inside the tank?

and by venting do you mean, conduct the test with the cap off ?

 

Again apologies if seems obvious 

[Tony Brooks]

19 minutes ago, Tgno3 said:

Thanks Steve this is good to kno!

and Tony good to rule things out so I will have a look tmrw along with testing the header tank and the exhaust manifold. 
question which may seem simple but just want to clarify- buy filling up to the brim do u mean right up to the the opening of the header tank or the line inside the tank?

and by venting do you mean, conduct the test with the cap off ?

 

Again apologies if seems obvious 

 

1. I would suggest, just once, fill to a few mm of the filler cap flange.

 

2. Unless it is an unusual design your skin tank should have some form of bleed device on or very close to the top. This could be a threaded male plug, a female screw cap, a radiator style bleed screw assembly or a machine screw screwed into the tank, that may be a hexagon or a screwdriver slot. I am sure there are others as well. By venting I mean loosening that screw thing until you can hear air hissing out or see water coming out. When    plain coolant comes out with no air bubbles then you will have vented the tank.

[Peugeot 106]

1 hour ago, Tony Brooks said:

 

1. I would suggest, just once, fill to a few mm of the filler cap flange.

 

2. Unless it is an unusual design your skin tank should have some form of bleed device on or very close to the top. This could be a threaded male plug, a female screw cap, a radiator style bleed screw assembly or a machine screw screwed into the tank, that may be a hexagon or a screwdriver slot. I am sure there are others as well. By venting I mean loosening that screw thing until you can hear air hissing out or see water coming out. When    plain coolant comes out with no air bubbles then you will have vented the tank.

Exactly the same as “venting”or “bleeding” a central heating radiator in a house. You can look it up on YouTube