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marji

Water circulation problem.

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2 minutes ago, marji said:

Water pump still has the slow drip. around shaft lock nut area.

 

Give it another twist on the greaser caps.

 

That's also why they obsoleted that particular model I think.

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Fitted the new filter, I think it has a better flow less distance to pull the water.

 

 

Just now, TheBiscuits said:

 

Give it another twist on the greaser caps.

 

That's also why they obsoleted that particular model I think.

Ok will do thanks.

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New filter and nice flow.

 

Tony raised a concern regard the hole for the inlet hose, I share this concern, I can't do a bottom inlet as I am not able to take the boat out of the water for a while, although my boat does need a full repaint and new propeller on the leg, I just have to many commitments this year.

 

So any ideas how to make the area safe from flooding.

 

 

 

 

new filter 1.jpeg

filter hole concern.jpeg

Edited by marji

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You seem to be 'backed up into corner' and there is a lot of rubbish (grass, weeds, slime) around the back of the boat and your 'water pick-up', can you pull it forward a bit and / or clear some of the rubbish out of the water. If your filter gets blocked and you are running 'dry' you'll be back to fitting a new impeller.

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9 minutes ago, marji said:

any ideas how to make the area safe from flooding.

 

Seacock or ball valve in the hole, turn it off when you leave the boat.    It's the exact fitting you'd want on a bottom inlet, but if it works fine where it is I'd leave it there.

 

After the first impeller gets destroyed you'll always remember to turn it on before starting the engine ...

 

Don't ask how I know this! :D

 

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the bit below the compression fittings; is that a sort of filter?

If so, I'm very concerned about how close this is to the surface. When moving, there will be a lot of turbulence around this area. You only need a little bit of air sucked into that pipe and the pump can fail to draw. There will then be a cascade of problems; water not being sucked up, impeller running dry, then engine overheating.

 

I agree with the people who say that your through-hull hole needs a proper fitting.  For now, I'd suggest filling around the hose with silicone.

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Re the pump drip: Did you put new packing in the gland? If so was it the stern gland packing you linked to or did you get the proper pre-fomed stuff? If the latter how did you adjust it?

 

Use this method - take the belt off, loosen the lock nut and turn the pulley by hand while you gradually tighten the gland nut. When you feel a slight resistance to turning lock tighten the lock nut.

 

Are you aware that stern glands traditionally are adjusted to drip between once or twice a minute? This is to keep the gland lubricated and cooled. The greaser is used on stern glands to stop the drip when stopped. If you cant adjust the packing to stop a more frequent drip the pump body may be worn but as long as the pump primes OK I would suggest that you live with it. Stick some bilge blankets in the engine tray to absorb the drips.

 

Re the hole in the transom: We can now see Its above the waterline so for inland use and as long as you don't hold a party at the back I don't think there is much to worry about until you get the boat out of the water. If it worries you put some NON_SILICON sealer around the gap on the outside. Silicon might cause adhesion problems when you come to glass the hole up.

 

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6 hours ago, Alastair said:

the bit below the compression fittings; is that a sort of filter?

If so, I'm very concerned about how close this is to the surface. When moving, there will be a lot of turbulence around this area. You only need a little bit of air sucked into that pipe and the pump can fail to draw. There will then be a cascade of problems; water not being sucked up, impeller running dry, then engine overheating.

 

I agree with the people who say that your through-hull hole needs a proper fitting.  For now, I'd suggest filling around the hose with silicone.

I can see and agree (thank you) I have not allowed for the boat moving and how the filter will react, raising the filter is very probable, it was a fine line as to how low it could go due to the prop but I seem to have been over cautious, I also wanted it to be viewable to maintain it, I am going to brace it somehow.

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7 hours ago, Tony Brooks said:

Re the pump drip: Did you put new packing in the gland? If so was it the stern gland packing you linked to or did you get the proper pre-fomed stuff? If the latter how did you adjust it?

 

Use this method - take the belt off, loosen the lock nut and turn the pulley by hand while you gradually tighten the gland nut. When you feel a slight resistance to turning lock tighten the lock nut.

 

Are you aware that stern glands traditionally are adjusted to drip between once or twice a minute? This is to keep the gland lubricated and cooled. The greaser is used on stern glands to stop the drip when stopped. If you cant adjust the packing to stop a more frequent drip the pump body may be worn but as long as the pump primes OK I would suggest that you live with it. Stick some bilge blankets in the engine tray to absorb the drips.

 

Re the hole in the transom: We can now see Its above the waterline so for inland use and as long as you don't hold a party at the back I don't think there is much to worry about until you get the boat out of the water. If it worries you put some NON_SILICON sealer around the gap on the outside. Silicon might cause adhesion problems when you come to glass the hole up.

 

The pump drip is around two every minute so I won't worry about that.

I am designing a water proof method to secure the hole, but able to release the hose, I have the idea just need to see if I can get the parts.

First design pipe through boat.JPG

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4 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

You could always use the 'proper' thing.

 

 

Winter advice - seacocks and skin fittings - Promarine Finance

 

or :

 

Six Reasons to Replace Bronze Seacocks with Composite Seacocks ...

That won't work in this case as I would have to lift the boat above the water level to make a new hole and fit that, that is something I could do in the future when I lift the boat out.

 

 

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Just now, marji said:

That won't work in this case as I would have to lift the boat above the water level to make a new hole and fit that, that is something I could do in the future when I lift the boat out.

 

 

 

Fair point.

I'd forgotten you were not going to have a lift out (yet).

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Just arrived is mint for it's age, a Jabsco model 4900-200, I now have the spare I wanted £70, no chips on the grease threads, the shaft spins nice but yet to check cover, impeller I expect to be no good as was described. 

 

 

 

3.jpeg

Edited by marji
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I moved the boat two locks today both impeller and pump did it's job, as for the new diy water filter, before I took off I managed to cable tie the filter to the leg so it was unable to lift above the water line but yet was not in the way of the leg movement, the filter is working very well better then my flask filter, I might also add the area I am in is known for terrible weeds the prop had to be reversed spun a few times, filter has passed the test and are now available for sale at £2000, joking aside at around £10 per unit I am happy with the result.

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