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  1. Hi I have a narrowboat built by Coalcraft. The watertank is steel not stainless steel. I empty the tank every September, October when I winterise the boat. In April when I wake the boat up the initial water from the tank shows signs of rust. The watertank is under the deck and gas locker at the front of the boat Has anyone else experience this? Has anyone got into the watertank to de-rust it and paint it? Thanks
  2. Hello all! I have a Morco F11E water heater. Every time I start it all the flames ignite but go out either immediately or after a few seconds. It then tries to relight but only one or two flames will light around the ignition. In the relighting stage I can manually light all the others with a handheld flame. Seems to me there are two problems, the gas flow shutting down and the ignition failing to light fully after the first try. Any ideas? I've cleaned out the water filter and pumped up the accumulator and the water flow sensor stays on while running so i don't think it's a water pressure issue, more likely gas pressure? Thanks in advance!
  3. My water pump (flojet R4405144A) recently developed a leak. It's been perfect for the 3 years I've had the boat and I imagine a long time before that too so decided to replace with the same model. When it arrived it had a very specific warning on the box that is has a bypass valve and shouldn't be used with an accumulator tank. My system does have an accumulator and i'd like to keep it if I can (no need for the pump to kick in if using water in the night etc). Even if the pump works well without an accumulator, I struggle to see how having one would be an issue, but wanted to sense check this first. I suspect my old pump had the bypass valve too and it isn't an issue(although this may have been added in the more recent versions of the same model). Before I installed it I wondered if anyone knew the logic or what kind of issues leaving the pressurised accumulator could cause theoretically? Thanks in advance!
  4. We are fitting out a boat so its bare bones and one thing we have the space for and really feel like we would get plenty of use from is a bath. We have a 1000L watertank. I am just trying to get to grips with what the hot water set ups are in boats. We do have a diesel heater which came with the boat which needs to be set up. I dont fully understand it that would need a calorifier to have the water stored in or can have instant hot water. Main thing im worried about is having to have two large calorofiers to fill the bath. I know also theres LPG boilers you can get. perhaps having the bath hot water run off that would be the best option? What sort of set ups do you bath owners have?
  5. I admit myself confused. I get that an open weed hatch, faulty stern packing, or non functioning bilge pump will flood the engine bay - but why oh why does that sink the boat? The ballast at the bow counteracts the weight of several people standing on the stern so should be enough to counteract the weight of water in the engine bay. Am I missing something? Is the water getting from the engine bay into the main hull somehow and over weighing the whole boat? I thought the engine bay, below deck level, was a separate compartment from the main hull and ballast area. Surely there is more we can do to reduce risk of sinking?! Please can you guys clarify.
  6. My regular steel built in water tank has an over flow pipe which snapped when we were doing work. Can I just seal it up or will this cause an issue with pressure in the tank? How would I replace a snapped over flow pipe? This is the only way in getting air into the tank. Thanks!
  7. Hi, I have recently purchased a boat and after moving on have discovered that there is no hot water coming out of the hot tap. The water does get hot just doesnt come out of the hot taps. (Cold tap has water ok) The boat is fitted with a brand new surecal 55ltr vertical calorifier with a drain valve at the bottom and the PRV and Mixer tap at the top. (Fitted by the previous owner but never comissioned) The cold water feed from the pump (at the front of the boat) feeds the taps and shower before reaching the calorifier in the engine bay. It then feeds into the bottom of the calorifier and also has a T-piece off the bottom of the feed that feeds into the mixer valve at the top. I did notice that if I turn the red cap on the TRV to the open position water comes rushing out of the hot tap but stops as soon as I release/close it. Does anyone have any ideas on what the issue might be as I dont want to keep the PRV permanently open just to get hot water. My install appears to mirror the connection instructions from surecal except on my calorifier the PRV is also on the top brass part with the mixer valve. (The bottom appears to just be a water feed inlet and a drain valve) Many thanks in advance. Sarah My Calorifer: Surecal Instructions:
  8. I have an in line MSC products water level gauge. It looks like this:- http://mcsboatproducts.co.uk/ I have the analogue meter. I thought at first my tank outlet was blocked but it looks like the gauge is showing half full when the tank is empty. So either the sensor is faulty of the gauge. Does anyone know of a simple way of testing these items or have any experience of common problems ? It has worked well up until a few days ago.
  9. I was trying to find a recent post about someone wanting to repaint the inside of their water tank, but slow internet today has caused me to give up. Anyway, a separate post might be more appropriate as what I am thinking of doing is turning my bow locker into a water tank. It has two tiny drain holes that would need welding up, (they are only 2-3cm above the water line btw) and I expect I could fit a screw down access plate with filler hole, under the lift up hatch (so keeping the appearance). Interestingly, the locker seems to have its floor at exactly water level, so I wonder if it means a bow thruster could be easily added underneath the portion towards the well deck? I digress. I could use the special paint on the inside of the locker. That or fit one of those bladder things. Ideally I'd fit a ss tank into the locker but it would waste a lot of capacity unless it was a special shape - though I could at least insulate it then. Getting it in through the hatch would be interesting. Pros and cons of this? I'm concerned about freezing in winter, and also wondering whether it would connect to the ss tank I have or if I would use a pump when the main tank is low, to transfer it through. My ss tank is I believe, 500l, the extra capacity could give me another 400 or 500l I reckon. I really need extra water for when I want to stay at a spot for the full 14 days without having to go into miser mode. Thoughts?
  10. Since coating my fresh water tank with potable bitumen I have a brown contamination in the water. I have filled and emptied the tank many times and still have a residual brown tinge and an earthy smell especially from the hot side. I collected a sample and left it to settle, see picture. From an existing topic on water tank coating someone suggested an algae had formed. I put a water sterilizing tablet in the glass of sludge and it just made the sludge float. I am draining the tank down soon for winter. Can anyone suggest what I should do to sterilize the whole system.
  11. Hi My water pump started playing up. That is, the flow was irregular and, as I have a Rinnai instant water heater, that meant taking a shower was either dodging the over-hot water or dodging the freezing cold water! Tonight, I removed the pump, took it apart, cleaned it up and re-installed it. But now it won't turn off! I recognise that there is a bit of an air-lock going on and I've had all taps open to try to release it. But that hasn't worked. I also think I understand that it will switch off when the back pressure is sufficient - have I got that right? But, I've left it running for a good 5 minutes or so, to allow the pressure to build up and it still doesn't turn off. Do I need to leave it running for longer or is my pump ready for the scrap heap? A new pump is only about £50 and I'm happy to pay that, but what if I have the same problem with the new one? Can anyone advise please? Cheers, Adam
  12. Hey guys, I'm stuck! I have a Liverpool Boat from 2005 with an Isuzu Marine 35. I am so confused, I've been looking for the agglomerator for months, every now and again I go and take another look. It doesn't seem to be on the primary or secondary fuel filter and I can't see a tap or bolt that would be for this either. The filters are solid, no catch on the bottom. Could someone possibly tell me what I am missing. I'm not great with engines and I'm scared to mess this up. Cheers, Jamie
  13. Hi all, Hopefully someone knows the answer to this. I have an Eberspacher that heats a calorifier. I run the Eber for about an hour and we get a decent amount of hot water for showers. My issue is the amount of time it takes for the hot water to reach the taps. I measured it this morning and it took 12 litres of water before it turned warm. This is the same every time the first person wants hot water. Can anyone suggest why this would happen? The shower is quite close to the calorifier, just a bedroom in between, so I'm finding it hard to make any sense of why it takes the amount of time. Please help!
  14. Just wanted to share with you all one little victory today Finally fired up my washing machine. No leaks, nothing blew up. The machine ran well off the Victron inverter. It's a Bosch WFF2000 - I couldn't find details of its water/power consumption but it didn't seem to greedy according to my water gauge. I did have a problem with the power early on - the voltage to the inverter dropped to under 11v and a red light warned me of low voltage. This was with the engine idling, so I increased revs but to no avail - seemed for a moment as though I'd knackered the alternators output. But after switching off the machine, letting the batteries get a bit of charge then resuming the wash cycle at higher engine revs, things went ok. Just a question of learning how things like to be treated. I wonder why the alternator output dropped right off then came back though. Hopefully just a normal safety feature but it should be good for 175a which is ... a lot. (couple kw?) Maybe trying to supply the machine and the hungry batteries was just too much for it - I'll start with higher revs and/or better charged batteries next time, now I know. Still good though! Clean underwear
  15. Hi, I've had a seaflo SFDP1 for about 2 years and in the last 2 weeks, it's decided to start overheating. Nothing had changed so I don't know what has caused it to start doing this. Pulled it apart, can't see anything obviously wrong. Turned the magnets round, checked the connection & checked pressure switch. It's getting extremely hot to touch, and really draining the batteries when it starts overheating (the lights dim considerably, and bathroom pump runs really slow when having shower, so I can tell it's putting pressure on batteries). Weird thing is, is that it has been intermittently working and not overheating! Does anyone have any ideas? Would appreciate any thoughts on this. Thank you.
  16. Hi, Just about to make a hole in the side of the boat. Looking at my other skin fittings, one is maybe less than 10" above the water line (well below the rubbing strake) one is above the rubbing strake. I'm plumbing a washing machine - read something about the hose needing to be higher than the top of the drum but not sure if its relevant in this case as no domestic waste to draw back old water from or anything like that. I'm tempted to make the whole a bit above the rubbing strake which is nice and high from the water outside... anyone know what's best?
  17. I bought a canal boat about six months go, it is a 50ft rose cruiser stern canal boat, ex hire and has been extremely neglected over the years. Previously has been over plated. It has been surveyed and the surveyors are extremely happy with the thickness of the steel. Have had welding done, and have put a lot of love and energy into restoring this boat into a live aboard. Really need some help and advice to help me get to the finish line on this project. Whilst Grinding out and de-rusting my bilges inside the cabin of the boat i exposed two small holes of the old steel. Unfortunately the boat was flooded whilst in dry dock lol, and the hulls must have filled with water and now there is water trapped in-between the plates of steel on both the starboard and port sides plus the bottom. The boat is now on hardstanding, out of water but there is still water coming into the cab. When I jump up and down inside the boat I can hear the water sloshing around. The water has not been in there more than two months, but I am worried this may cause serious problems. Is this is a case of drilling into the gap and extracting the water or worse case scenario over plating again. Any help would be greatly appreciated, Thank you in advance, T.
  18. Hello Everyone, I have had to resort to a post about this as tonight I feel defeated !! after 2 months of battling with a leak in my engine room, I really thought I had it sussed ! - I have had various things to the calorifier done, including expansion tank fitted and all the joints re done, (plumer was doing some other work did this) - I have reseated the calorifier skin fitting with CT1 as I noticed this wasnt very good, - I then found a small hole near another pipe exit, where a spot of weld was missing and filled this with CT1 , really thought this was it. And yet still I find water, and a fair amount !! Alot of people say check the prop but I really dont think its this and I regularly twist the knob, but I am going to attempt to completely repack this at the weekend. For now I have put a bowl under it., I have taken some photos and even a video to try and show the issue and am desperate for some advice, I had the boat surveyed recently and he said everything was in very good conditon so am dubious to think its the hull itself leaking but starting to feel that way. I did run the eberspecher this morning for hot water and it rained lots today. I have a cratch cover and cannot figure it out ! I wondered if it was coming in through the vents but they dont seem wet ? Any help greatly apreciate, it may stop me going totaly mad. Thanks Martin http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/20160712_202756.jpg http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/20160712_202802.jpg http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/20160712_203654.jpg http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/20160712_203703.jpg http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/IMG_4504.JPG http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/IMG_4505.JPG http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/IMG_4506.JPG http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/IMG_4508.JPG http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/IMG_4509.JPG http://www.martin-price.org/downloads/Engine%20Leaks/IMG_4510.JPG Ps. sorry some of the photos are terrible, just home from work and tried to take the best I could on my phone with a torch, The video is a little better I hope
  19. Hi all, For a while I've been toying with the idea of buying a narrowboat to continuously cruise along the London Canals, for a few weeks or so I've been doing a fair bit of research but for some areas I still haven't found the answers I'm looking for so thought I'd turn to you guys to see if you can help me out at all! Apologies in advance if some areas have been discussed already and also, if any of the questions sound silly... I really am a complete newbie to this... 1. As I mention - I'll be CC along the Canals in London, so have been researching what distance as I need to travel each week, obviously don't want to take the mick and want to stay on the right side of Canal and River Trust. However, their website isn't totally clear on how far - all I can see is that in a years licence, 15-20miles is expected, which seems more than fine. But how far is the minimum? Just for an example, say I started in Little Venice and was travelling East, how far would I need to travel to satisfy the Canal and River Trust for say one weekend I didn't want to travel 'that' far? 2. Which brings me on to my next point - as I read, each 14 days would be the time I top up water, which would top up my batteries (as I'm moving) and usually empty the loos out. May seem like a silly question but are these water points at regular intervals? Similarly, to electric points? (if I needed it half way) Also, are loo-emptying-places at regular intervals also? 3. Again, brings me on to my next point of water storage tanks and electricity batteries... my budget is around 25k and aiming for around a 40ft-er trad steel narrowboat so from what I've seen, many don't have a tank or seems quite small. If so, can this be retrofitted and to what cost? I understand becoming more frugal is all part and parcel of it (which I'm excited about) but for say a 10/15minute shower a day - what sort of tank should I be looking at to tide me over for two weeks? However, I guess this would hinge on question number two! In terms of electricity, I don't watch a lot of TV but would like to charge my phone, listen to music, have lights! Where should I even start with what to look for to tide me over 2 weeks again? 4. I guess this question is more to the nitty-gritty when I view but what are the main tips/points you'd recommend to look out for a bad conditioned narrowboat? Is there such a thing? Don't mind buying something that requires a bit of modernisation but in terms of 'behind the scene' stuff, what do I look for when looking at an engine? At the electric board? Heating system? Or should this all be taking care of at survey stage? Anyway, I think that's probably enough for now on my first post. I really would appreciate any tips/answers - no matter how big or small! Really excited to be buying - just need to get my head around it all first!! Speak soon, Nat
  20. Hi folks Could you please take a minute to sign our petition.We would like to improve the facilities for all who use the beautiful river Nene. https://you.38degrees.org.uk/petitions/please-help-improve-river-nene-s-facilities?source=facebook-share-button&time=1422959109 Thanks Safe & happy boating The new website is now up and running :- http://www.friendsoftherivernene.co.uk/Articles/About-Us
  21. Hello everyone, I'm hoping someone can help me with a calorifier problem i have. Let me start by saying we bought the boat (1993 50ft widebeam) from a third party who knew nothing about the boat and could only show us it running so this has all been a bit of a learning curve, overcoming problem by problem. The boat has a calorifier fitted approximately 1meter from the engine, but we only seem to have hot water when the engine has been running and the boat moving, and even this is only after 3+ hours. running the engine at idle moored up produces nothing. I have bled the air from the system by running the engine to hot and removing coolant filler cap as well as loosening the fittings for water into the calorifier from engine and return to the engine from calorifier whilst engine was running and hot which revealed there was some air in there. each of these actions were done in turn rather than all at once. coolant is approx 30% antifreeze. Because of the length of time it takes to warm up, I believe the water is heating through thermal conductivity of the water in the system as opposed to circulating round the system. The boat used to have a siren/alarm which screamed out from the instrument panel when the ignition was switched on, which we thought was normal until I had our alternator reconditioned as it wasnt producing any power for the batteries and then the alarm stopped and hasnt been back Additionally, on the instrument panel there is a "charge" "oil" and "water" light. Charge light goes out once engine is on and slight throttle applied as I presume it has now been excited. Oil light is never on, but the water light is always on, ignition on and engine on. there is also a single very thin electicial cable with a female spade elctrical connector on top of the engine, coming from the engine where the water/coolant leaves the engine to flow through the pipe to the calorifier. I have no idea where or what to connect to this cable. Can anyone advise what they think may be the problem or what my next course of action should be before contacting an engineer (and paying dearly for it). I will take photos shortly and try to upload within 24 hours. Could it be the thermostat? circulation pump? faulty electrical connection? Thanks for your help
  22. We have installed 500W of solar (with another 250W panel to be fitted). We have an MPPT charge controller (MorningStar TS-60) and these sunny days, it takes no time to fill our batteries, especially as our fridge is out of action. I'm wondering if there's a straightforward (inexpensive) way to divert the excess power to our immersion heater to heat the water tank? I think it's a 1kw immersion heater. We have a 1kw inverter also. I guess a more low powered immersion heater would be needed?
  23. I'm currently fitting out a 64ft narrowboat and have reached the point of fitting out the plumbing. I'm concentrating on the fresh water system, of which im adopting a very similar (if not identical) structure to C-Warm's schematic drawing...(see image link below) http://www.tnorrismarine.co.uk/images/cal1.JPG This system on paper looks pretty straight forward to me, I've sourced most of the parts yet connecting them together is a mystery to me. I'll be using push fit Hep2O which is relatively basic to fit, my concern lies more with installing the main components like the calorifier, water pump, accumulator tank, shower, valves etc... Has anyone installed a fresh water system and can guide me in the right direction? P.s - I'm very new to boating and unfamiliar with plumbing 'know how', hence theoretic or jargon related advice won't really help me, im much more apt at learning in a practical and visual method, I would be truly grateful if you could cater to that medium of information, regardless any help would be very much appreciated. Thanks in advance.
  24. Watercolour on a piece of A5 watercolour paper. And painted on my boat with a Koi pocket set and waterbrush. Source photo is from The Tillergraph magazine.
  25. I've lost the hexagonal keyed metal water tank plug for our boat. (At the Bath Widcombe Lock Flight water point in the unlikely chance anyone has it!). Are these easily replaceable? How would I know widths, depths and thread pitch of the plug without trying to measure it crudely? It's a 1987 Colecraft. Any pointers well appreciated.
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