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Found 19 results

  1. Janz

    Calorifier pump?

    Hi guys, What is this? Is it a pump that feeds the calorifier? I have bought a boat with the calorifier disconnected. There are two hoses on it that should be plumbed into the engine but no obvious inlet/exit fittings. This pump must have been disconnected/blanked off as it is leaking, both from the shaft & the gasket. It's also been packed with grease, presumablyto negate the leak but it ain't cutting it. When the engine is running, it starts losing a lot of water & I can't really sort out the rest of the cooling system &/or add antifreeze until it is either watertight or swapped out for something that works. In order to fix it I would need to know brand, model & function. I'm good for air cooled motorbike engines but I don't know much about water cooling stuff such as cars, boats etc... Any ideas?
  2. Hi, I'm recently bought an 1957 Austin fx3 taxi, I'm located in West Chicago Illinois, USA. I bought the car 2 months ago, was in a heated storage for 20 years without starting the engine. I replaced fuel filter, oil filter, oil and fuel, and bleeding the air from the lines and pump, my question is why I'm getting only fuel coming out from the inlet line on one injector ONLY, and nothing on the other three inlets lines, could be something inside the inyección fuel pump? Or something related with the timing on the pump? Any other advices? Any information will be very helpful, thank you. Car has a BMC 4 cylinder diesel 2.2 bmc
  3. My water pump often takes ages to pump water through., i have checked the system for leaks, added a compression tank and still the problem persists. there is no way to adjust the pressure on the pump. the pump is not that old and the problem has been going on pretty much since i first installed it. Do you think i just have a faulty pump or i need a hight power pump?
  4. Hiya, We are about to attempt a bathroom refit on our narrowboat. We are stripping old the old (very) compact bath and possibly replacing with a compact corner bath to save a bit of space. The plan is to go from a bathroom off a corridor, to one the whole width of the boat but with a entry/exit door in each side (if you know what I mean). We're pretty new to narrowboats, but we plan to do it ourselves - it doesn't look that hard!! (we'll see). Main problem: since we have had the boat, sometimes in the morning, or if we haven't been onboard for a day or so (we are in the process of moving from our house onto the boat) there is a small amount of often smelly water accumulated in the bottom of the bath. I don't really see how we could be taking in water through the outlet. Sometimes the pump takes a while to get the water out. Is anyone familiar with this problem? Is it an issue with the plumbing, or with the pump, or what?? Second problem: this is more ignorance. But as the water in the boat is not under pressure (unless the pump is on), then can I take the pipes off the bath/sink taps without water flowing out of the them? If so, then I guess I need to seal them off at the ends before I use the water pump in any other area of the boat? That's probably a ridiculous question, but whether it is or not, I would appreciate some advice! Thanks in advance!!!
  5. p6rob

    Secondary waterpump

    Hi again, I'm still trying to get the boat to run nicely, apart from the plumes of smoke, which I publicly apologis for, (I'm hoping it's to do with the prolonged bedding in period and that it will settle down to an acceptable level once the boat has a few more miles under it's belt) it still overheats. I think an airlock got purged during this afternoons trip as, initially, the first skin tank was warm, whereas the second tank was stone cold. After this airlock was belched out, the second tank started to warm up, but by then, I'd discovered the Cambrian Wharf visitor moorings were full, so headed back to Sherborne Wharf. Basically, I think the coolant is struggling to travel around the circuit because the engine pump can't push the huge volume of water around the numerous 90 deg bends in the circuit between engine and skin tanks. Does it sound sensible to add another pump between the starboard and port skin tank? I'm thinking of fitting a thermostatically controlled electric one as I think it would be easier to plumb in, but, if a mechanical pulley driven one is more suitable, I'd go with expert opinion. If this is a sensible mod, what pump make/type would get your vote? The external hoses are all 32mm id except for restrictions into and out of the engine and gearbox oil cooler heat exchangers. At the moment, and it was only a very short trip, it seems that running at anything over tickover causes overheating but it was stable cruising at tickover. Failing that, is it possible to convert to raw water cooling or is that just changing one set of problems for another? Thanks in advance Robert
  6. So we are at the stage of fitting some bilge pumps in the preperation for travelling down the seven eastury. Im looking for a good reliable and trustworthy bilge pump. Can anyone recommend a good pump? the boat is a 68 by 10 ft X-trip boat springer that we have taken right back to bare metal and started the task of refitting everything. I am planning on putting 2 at the stern of the boat one eather side of the I-beam that runs the length of the boat just before the engine room bulkhead and having hatches big enough to drop a spare pump in should the worst happen up the rest of the boat. Good plan or a waste of time and money?
  7. I used my submerged bilge pump a couple of weeks ago to remove a couple of cm of water from the bilge and it worked fine. This week, nothing. When I flick the switch to put the bilge pump on the voltage at the connector block shows as being only 10.8V. Strange. Could it be a faulty switch, or just that the pump has copped it? I don't know the make of the pump I'm afraid as someone before me has put it in a very awkward place. Making it hard to get it out.
  8. Hi guys, Thank you in advance to whoever can solve this. I have had a Vetus toilet- no big issues for three years. However, there was a bad smell coming from the 38mm sanitary hoses and 25mm direct from toilet hose. I replaced these with Eurocord Sanitary W.C after being recommended these were high quality and less likely to smell. However after swapping all the hoses we tried to use the toilet and the water simply will not suck away any more. The push and hold button the the vetus control panel whirs and it usually would work but no suction from the bowl. I went to the website where they had these faults listed: Possible cause • The air-relief valve does not shut properly. • The outlet pipe is blocked. • The pump housing is blocked. • The sieve is blocked. Solutions: Solution • Clean the air-relief valve, or replace it. • Descale the outlet pipe. • Clean the pump housing. • Clean the sieve I took the entire pump apart cleaned it, reinstalled it and still the same issue- I have a feeling the air relief valve has now coincidentally given up the ghost, however, https://www.vetus.com/en/spare-parts/waste-water-systems.html?p=3 you will notice there is no mystical "air-relief valve" on their spare parts section. Has anyone else come across these issues? Cheers, G
  9. Hi, Does anyone know of any piece of equipment that can be attached to, or interact with, an already installed pump which will trip and cut out the pump after a set running period, a certain temperature etc? I want to guard against the pump dry running endlessly once the tank has emptied and the pump wet running and filling the boat in the event of a leak. I'm aware of some plumbing fittings which cut out after a certain volume but they don't really fit the bill as they constantly need to be manually reset. Thanks in advance. Dan
  10. Hi I had my Lockgate diesel-fuelled stove serviced a couple of months ago, but have been unable to test it due to an apparent blockage in the fuel line. Now that the weather's beginning to turn, I need to sort it out. It has been suggested that I get a simple pump and install it inline, close to the stove. This will allow me to run it very briefly until I can see fuel entering the bottom of the stove, then flick it off again. I'm not sure, without removing wooden panels, whether I have a 12v supply near the stove but I definitely have 240v as there is a wall light right next to it. So, I'm thinking that 240v will be fine, especially as I will only want to run it for a few seconds at a time and when I'm on the cut, this won't draw too much from the battery bank. Has anyone else done this before? Can you recommend a pump? Is this a good idea?? Many thanks
  11. I changed the fuel filter last weekend. Not a massive problem, except that bleeding the injector pump was a bit of a b****h. And I now have a bit of a diesel leak. It seems to be coming from the small screws below the bleed nuts (pictured in red). Said bleed nuts could also do with replacing, as the have been a bit chewed up previously. Does anyone know where I can get parts for this, or even what the injector is? The name plate is a bit eroded (also pictured).
  12. As some of you may know the wife's foot went through the water pump dividing it nicely in half and causing a splash or two of water to threaten to sink the boat (exageration). Has anyone got any advice for how to change the water pump- turn off the water obviously- turn off the electricity supply (I'm guessing)? I also need to replace the front panel which appears to be leading from the bow onto the stair (where the water pump is). Heeelllpppp...
  13. Hi, After many plumbing issues (PRV, ruptured tank, pump being set too high) we've gotten our plumbing back to normal, that is until we tried the taps, at some point in the 2 month plumbing fiasco we've either gotten an air block or we've had something break. We have water when turning the tap for 1 maybe 2 seconds at what feels like full pressure, then nothing for 10 or 15 seconds till the pump kicks in. It's worth noting the lowering in pressure was weeks before our major issues and was working for a good 6 weeks before everything was turned upside down. Does anyone have any ideas? I've tried raising the pressure, it worked for about 10 minutes then it was back to before.
  14. I have a jabsco par-max 2.9 25 psi automatic fresh water pump, supplying all my hot and cold water requirements. In the last few days it will not shut down after running a tap. Have checked for leaks and airlocks and found none. Today it ran on for 5 minutes and whilst looking for clues noticed a "low volts" red light on my victron inverter. Started the engine and the pump stopped! Waited awhile and ran some electrical things until low voltage light came on and yes pump pressure switch did not cut flow. Ran engine, pump stopped. Measured batteries and got 11.8 v. This has never happened before and comes following a sludge problem with my fresh water tank after re-coating it. Can anyone shed any light on why the pressure switch has started to not work at a lowish voltage whilst all my other "low volts" indicators, fridge, dim lights etc are all ok ? Is there an adjustment on the pressure switch ? Should I remove the pump and flush it out ? I have cleaned the crap out of the mesh filter between the tank and the pump. Have also raised a topic about cold water sterilisation. Thanks
  15. Hi My water pump started playing up. That is, the flow was irregular and, as I have a Rinnai instant water heater, that meant taking a shower was either dodging the over-hot water or dodging the freezing cold water! Tonight, I removed the pump, took it apart, cleaned it up and re-installed it. But now it won't turn off! I recognise that there is a bit of an air-lock going on and I've had all taps open to try to release it. But that hasn't worked. I also think I understand that it will switch off when the back pressure is sufficient - have I got that right? But, I've left it running for a good 5 minutes or so, to allow the pressure to build up and it still doesn't turn off. Do I need to leave it running for longer or is my pump ready for the scrap heap? A new pump is only about £50 and I'm happy to pay that, but what if I have the same problem with the new one? Can anyone advise please? Cheers, Adam
  16. At wits end and looking for inspiration. Have a Whale Watermaster 1214B which has been working well. It has now started cycling in every few minutes. I have checked all taps, prv, etc and there are no leakages on outlet side. Have serviced the pump after speaking to Whale, no change. Have also tried another pump whic h I know is working fine, it still cycles in! Any ideas PLEASE
  17. Hi, I've had a seaflo SFDP1 for about 2 years and in the last 2 weeks, it's decided to start overheating. Nothing had changed so I don't know what has caused it to start doing this. Pulled it apart, can't see anything obviously wrong. Turned the magnets round, checked the connection & checked pressure switch. It's getting extremely hot to touch, and really draining the batteries when it starts overheating (the lights dim considerably, and bathroom pump runs really slow when having shower, so I can tell it's putting pressure on batteries). Weird thing is, is that it has been intermittently working and not overheating! Does anyone have any ideas? Would appreciate any thoughts on this. Thank you.
  18. Hi there and thanks to everyone that has helped me in the past (either through my posts or through gleaning much wisdom from others exploits).. I am slowly working through the long list of niggles in the interior re-fit of nb Kerbau which I live aboard in Liverpools albert dock, Im at the point of tackling the water system and have fitted a 3.5gpm shureflo pump with a 2 ltr accumulator tank right by the water tank. Now im certain that the batteries (2x 110ah) are not in the best state (two new ones are on the way) but even with the charger on i notice the lighting (all led) noticeably drop whenever the pump kicks in.. The pump is wired via a length of 6mm twin and earth fitted by the previous owner which is far beefier than the cable used for the pump on my last boat which had no such issue.. It seems like there is too great a voltage drop over the cable run and I am wondering if it is possible to fit the pump near the stern far closer to the batteries to reduce this factor. Before taking any rash steps though I thought i would ask you knowledgeable folk if theres any glaring reason why this cannot be pursued, with the boat always slightly bow up and the potential pump fitting spot literally on the base plate it should still be gravity fed to the pump which would be the only danger i can think of having the pump fitted so far away.. any advice greatefully received! merry christmas!
  19. I am trying to find a water flow switch to turn on a whale gulper pump when the water flows through the pipe to the shower, however I can only find flow switches rated for 1 amp or lower. As the gulper instructions state it should be fused at 5 amps I need the switch to handle the (potentially) higher load used by the pump. Ideally I'd keep this setup as simple as possible, so a if a higher rated flow switch is available please let me know as I haven't been able to find anything! Otherwise I was thinking I could use a relay to control the power to the pump, which would mean I could use the switch within its rated max current, however being unfamiliar with relays I have a couple of questions: If I have a 12v +ve supply, run it through the switch, through the relay and back to the -ve then am I just creating the equivalent of a short circuit when the water starts flowing? Or is my relay the equivalent of an appliance in this case? It must "draw" some power. Would something like this from Maplin in conjunction with one of the switches below do the job? Ohm's law tells me that this would draw 0.15 amps (a = 12v / 80 ohms), assuming I am not misunderstanding/missing something. Switch 1 Switch 2 Whatever happens there will be another switch parallel with this setup to allow a manual override if we need to run the pump with the shower off. Thanks in advance.
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