Search the Community

I have recently been given a Victron battery monitor BMV600 and am looking to add it to the boat. The installation of the shunt seems simple enough if you have one battery but with a bank of three domestic batteries there are options available and I am concerned to choose the best one. Looking at the current wiring of the domestic batteries it doesn't seem that the batteries are currently wired in the best configuration (though I'm not sure about that). I'm aware of the Smartgauge site and Option 2 where the positive and negative 'take-offs' should be diagonally opposite one another and that seems to be what I have presently (1st image) Intuition suggests that the alternator connections ought to be made in a similar sort of way but that is not presently the case; they being connected to the middle battery of the three. I'm thinking that the shunt should be added with some minor changes (as shown in image 2) but am not at all sure about this. I've looked at info about alternators/charging/etc on this and other sites but have not found any info that gives me the confidence to proceed with this change. Any comments would be most welcome. There are two alternators on the Isuzu engine which appear to charge the starter and domestic batteries separately. Thanks in anticipation of some helpful advice

I'm after a twin 2 1/2 inch O/D pulley to fit a CAV taper shaft alternator. I've searched the interweb without success. I think I know the answer but anyone know where or if pulleys can be purchased for CAV alternators.

The regulator on my alternator is set to 13.8V. When I end a cruise and go on shore power it takes hours before the battery is fully charged. Would it be a good idea to use the 14.5V setting or would this cause damage to the batteries when cruising for eight hours a day? Would a battery controller be worth fitting? Is Adverc still the best choice?

Hi there new to the community so I hope it's alright to create a new thread. The narrowboat I'm currently looking to purchase is set up with an alternator, 3 new 12v batteries, no inverter, mains cabling throughout. There is also a generator on board. I'm sorry I can't provide specifics at this point, but even general advice much appreciated. If I continue with the purchase, I'm intending on putting on 4 Renogy 100 Watts 12v Monocrystalline Solar panels and doing my best to use the engine for power as minimally as possible (going into winter I realise that the solar is not going to give much power). The current owner will also be putting on a new 12v Fridge if I go ahead with the purchase. The appliances I intend on running would be a toaster, iron, TV, record player, iMac (I already own this and not looking to replace it), Laptop charger, Mobile charger. I'll be replacing all the current lighting with LED. There is currently a Washing Machine on board but the owner says its best to remove it as its on the mains (makes sense, although I would consider keeping it if anyone could provide a realistic solution). Stove and oven will be gas, have yet to decide on a water heating system. The current gas boiler is defunct. Currently considering a new gas boiler or a back boiler for the burner (no burner currently on board looking to purchase) to fuel hot water (taps, shower) and heating (there are radiators throughout but I'm not sure if they would be necessary once I purchase the burner - she's 63'. To be clear I will not be mooring up and 'plugging in', so everything needs to be off grid power. My knowledge is limited so being completely open, I apologise if my questions appear naive any support appreciated: Is it better to consider investing in a good inverter, or should I look at transformers on an appliance by appliance basis? If primary usage was 12v, would installing an inverter affect functionality or can you run both 230v and 12v with an inverter? I'm not particularly keen to keep the generator but would anyone advise that I do and why? Instead of an inverter or transformers would anyone's opinion be that I simply run the engine (with alternator) when using non-12v appliances, and why? I want to reduce emissions and costs from over using the engine unnecessarily wherever possible. Will the current 'all mains' wiring cause any problems with purchasing 12v appliances e.g. the fridge. If I wanted to consider keeping the washing machine what would you recommend having in place? Thank you for your advice.

Here is a copy of what I sent to Adverc yesterday. They are enjoying their weekend, I suppose, so I thought that I would ask the opinions of the forum What do the cognoscenti reckon? Nick

Hi there, I've got one of these (see pic below), but want to change it for something that can take more solar panels and is a bit more modern. We use it with a 60A alternator, and 1x 100w solar panel (although I think this regulator can only take up to 60w solar. We don't have a wind turbine. It only seems to produce a max of 14.1v when the engine's on (even after hours of cruising) and recently has been hitting 15.1v through the solar panel - which seems a bit high?! I'd like to replace it with a charger suitable for the alternator, and maybe solar as well. Do I need to get a separate charger for the alternator, then an MPPT charger for the solar panel (I also want to add either one or two 175w solar panel to make 275w or 375w in total). We have 3x 110ah leisure batteries and a starter battery, and a Sterling 1600W pure sine wave inverter that is yet to be hooked up.. Any advice, brands, models to watch out for etc, most welcome! Cheers, Alistair

Hey everyone, new to boating and still very dumb about it but trying to learn. The problem relates to the batteries, I have a solar panel and charger and the charger tells me the voltage of the batteries. When I charge them via the engine, the voltage can go up to 13 - 13.2 volts which says to me they are charged but it only takes an hour or two. I've been told I'm not charging them for long enough but if I leave it on charge for longer it generally stays the same voltage the whole time and when I turn the engine off, it goes to 12.9-12.7 which I'm aware is fully charged. An example today is my voltage was at 12.2 so I charged the batteries for 2 hours, the batteries were at 12.7 when I finished charging and they're back down to 12.2 again after only 2-3 hours even though I've only had LED lights running and 1 usb charger for a mobile. What I'm basically asking, which has been mentioned on my previous posts, are my batteries knackered or do I need to leave them charging for longer regardless of what my controller says? I've ordered a generator and battery gauge so hopefully that will give me more answers. Thanks! Oh also, I have 2 x 110amp leisure batteries.

We've had our n/boat for just over a year and I've never had a lot of confidence in the original Barrus Shire 10 year old instrument panel which had a suspect ignition switch (lose, floopy key slot) and a tacho that never moved. So I replaced it with the latest version which I rather naively thought would be a straight swap - Same size, same block connecter etc. There was however some wiring mods needed one of which was due to now having individual battery/alternator lights for both the starter battery and the leisure batteries. I explained this to Barrus as they originally told me it would simple swap and they, all credit to them, sent a guy out to the marina within 48 hours to modify the block connector etc to get things connected. However he identified that the starter battery wasn't charging due to a faulty alternator which was the reason for the tacho problem and the battery/alternator light staying on. So it was frustrating that having fitted the newly refurbished alternator, both the above problems still continued. However following a suggestion from another marina colleague, I disconnected the LED bulb and holder from the back of the panel and reconnected to a traditional 12 volt/2w bulb and holder. On starting up....hey presto the light went out and the tacho needle sprung into life!. So....whilst some might say - well that's the problem sorted....I am puzzled by such things? Comments welcome but please bear in mind those of you who posses a far greater understanding of electrical matters that my knowledge is limited and I am merely keen to know whether by simply changing the bulb from an LED really has solved the problem and why the starter battery alternator would work with the LED? Thanks in advance

Hi all, My Leece Neville alternator is kicking out >15.7 - 17 volts on anything but tick over. I have brand-new starter battery and leisure batteries. The alternator has a voltage adjustment screw on the regulator. I have tried adjusting this and it seems to be completely randomly adjusting the voltage - turn clockwise it rises and then suddenly drops similarly anti clockwise. It looks like the previous owner has already played around with it. The lowest I can get it is around 14.88, which I am guessing from reading up on it is still too high. the batteries are full having cruised for 8 hrs yesterday, solar panels etc... the voltage didn't drop all day. The Cyrix ct relay has hopefully protected the leisure batteries as it only cuts in beneath 15.7 volts. given I think the voltage regulator screw isn't working very well I was thinking about replacing the regulator - anyone know a good place to buy one, struggling to find anything on line in the U.K? It's an 8rg2043 ANy one had any similar experiences Or advice or thoughts? will take into a auto electrical place if this isn't a diy job Cheers tom

I'm not an electrician so need help. Isuzu 35 engine with standard wiring and engine control panel. Problem:- Control panel warning buzzer is sounding, not continuous but with frequency increasing with engine revs, and engine alternator warning light is similarly showing. On board electrical panel indicates engine alternator is pushing +14.4V and charging amperage is satisfactory (as is auxiliary alternator), both engine and auxiliary batteries charge fully no problem. Both alternators bench checked OK so, looking at the Isuzu wiring diagrams I see 3 diodes at warning buzzer and thought I'd check them. NO JOY! Can't find diodes in panel wiring at all but do find 2 resisters (CGS SBCHE4 47R J PW LA) which according to the diagrams ought not be there. Shall be grateful if someone will tell me what's going on as the sound from the warning buzzer is driving me crackers and I don't really want to disconnect it as it serves as warning for oil pressure and water temperature as well as engine and auxiliary electrics.

I'm sure everyone remembers my poor charging regime and the lengthy thread that ensued. I'm still using my set of somewhat reduced capacity 4x110ah batteries - a couple hours engine running in the morning, a couple in the evening, and then switch off the 240v (including fridge) at night. This gives me enough laptop time in the evening, led lights and various pumps etc. So, for now carrying on quite happily - but I have noticed a new phenomenon creeping in lately. Today for example: I ran the engine for an hour or so when I got up (with 240v back on as normal). I then cruised for 3 1/2 hrs. A couple hours later, and my batteries are already back down to 12.3v so I have fired up the engine again. What I am saying is this - it would appear that the leisure batteries are not getting much (or any?) charge when I'm cruising. I can't think what this could be but I'm sure someone will enlighten me - be gentle! Just to re iterate - I know the batteries have reduced capacity, but a couple hours charging off the engine normally sees them up to say 12.8v which lasts all day or all evening. Even on longer cruises, they don't seem to get as much charge as when the engine is just running in neutral. I have two alternators, 50a for engine, 175 for leisure.

we have 2x 230ahc 12v Haze gel maintence free batteries, and a NASA BM-1 battery/charging monitor (which i love!). Before i start the engine, the BM1 reads: 13.5V Charging 2.4a (from Solar - inverter off, no 12v load) 88%C Time to Charge 25hr. 731 Int Ahr. I start the engine and.... Between 15.2 and 15.4V Charging between 1.2 and 4.2a Time to Charge between 9.3hr and 77hr. 732 Int Ahr Is this voltage too high?? ALSO the D Battery warning light is flashing about once per second with an accompanying chirrup and a "hunting" of the engine revs - this at about 1200 rpm. Nothing above changes at 1400 rpm and a good engine rev makes no odds. At tickover the warning light is solidly on. The engine is a Beta38 with a 100A alternator.. The Label says : LSKRA 14V 100A. (AAK5535) We both have a week off next week so i'm thinking of getting someone to look at it, BUT.. Am i likely to "fry" the batts at 15.4v if i take a few hours to chug from the bottom-ish of the Ashby to (say) Springwood Haven? (EEK! ) Any one else know any marine sparks up this way ? Currently @ Trinity Marina but supposed to be moving to our new mooring between bridges 4-5 on the Ashby on Saturday (soooooooo happy about this!! )

My Travel Power 220 v AV 17A alternator keeps failing. If started from cold it will run (i.e. produce an indicated 220 v) for about 15-20 minutes, this regardless of whether it is totally without load or with a moderate (1 to 2 kW) load. Then the voltage fluctuates for a minute or so before dropping to zero. The green light is (usually, but not always) on when the voltage is at 220, off when not; the red light is never seen. If it is switched on when the engine is hot (so the alternator has been turning but not generating power for several hours) it lasts considerably less time - only 2 to 3 minutes. It until is almost 12 years old, and has been used mostly on a very light load, with very occasional brief periods of moderate or high load. The engine has recorded a little over 8,000 hours. The fan within the power box runs while it is producing voltage, but is stopped when it is not. The alternator drive belt is in good condition and correctly tensioned and the alternator definitely continues to turn when it has failed to produce power. Can anyone give me a clue of where to go from here? Many thanks all. Rob H