system 4-50

I am a plain speaking person who will dump his pen'orth in where others are too kind to tread, so here goes. Some people just don't have what it takes to work with gas, and you are one of them. You don't even know enough to know how little you know (about gas). Please don't do any work on gas either now or in the future, no matter how desperate you are. This will stop you getting burnt.

I just knew those CCers were killers....

To seal the joint between the stove and the flue I used rope followed by a small layer of fire grade silicon (250 deg ?) and it sealed fine, but when the stove was more than about 1/3rd power it smelt bad. I replaced it with rope followed by fresh cement and that has been fine. Make sure the cement you buy has not been sitting on a shop shelf for years.

It seems odd to me to have my engine sat in between two heaters. Would there be any benefit in insulating the inside surface of the skin tanks?

I'm ignorant - what exactly is a fuel polish?

Oi! Do you mind! Its us Lab Assistants that know where the widget is, not the Prof. He only knows that, theoretically, there must be one somewhere.

Ebac is good.

Tip: The yardstick for determining how low to let your supplies get before restocking during the Winter must take into account the length of time you might be incapable due to Norovirus, Banterbug, etc. yyyyyyyyyyyy (stock of spare y's for anybody that might need them.)

Be careful not to ram your tow-er when it catches!

If you have a dump-through, does that make you a plop-er boater?

As you come into the lock, lasso the top gate post and pull it closed behind you with the momentum of the boat. Keeping the rope around the post, throw the free end forward and tie it to the middle of a line tied by simple wrapping to the iron staples commonly found on the end of both gate beams. Drop the water out of the lock very quickly so that you can keep the boat moving forward in the lock, drawing the rope around the top gate post and pulling the bottom gates open. Once you have had a bit of practice you will be able to judge the wrapping of the "cross" line so that it becomes undone just as you exit the lock. Be careful not to foul the screw as you gather in the rope. Working boaters used to pride themselves on the skill with which they were able to do this. I may have exaggerated slightly here. In fact I may have fabricated the story from beginning to end...

All other things being equal, when there is a strong wind blowing, I give preference to the boat that has the harder job dealing with the wind.

Cameras are useful.

Slow down to pass? I just want them to slow down when they are about hit me. Yes, I've just opened a bottle of red as well. No, I don't know (or care) what it is!

I can believe that. The lagging has to be pretty damn good. The rising pipe has to come from well below ground level. I agree it is not easy.

Not entirely on that one. There is a heat source, the ground. A couple of feet below the ground will definitely be above freezing unless you are on the Siberian branch of the BCN. This heat is sufficient to stop the rising pipe freezing provided that it cannot escape outside, the water is a good convector of heat. So good lagging will definitely stop taps freezing until lower still air temperatures are reached. Of course, if you want the taps to freeze, then Use metal pipes Don't Lag them Make sure they are kept wet from the dripping tap Encase the whole shebang in a good conductivity iron housing Make sure the structure is in a position exposed to the wind

I regret not being a hireboater because of the diminished challenge. As a boat owner I am allowed to reduce speed when faced with a challenge whereas as a hirer that is of course unheard of.

Grief in locks? No, why should it? Perhaps 70ft might be easier. Then you couldn't drift away from ladders. But the answer is no.

Tip: Move stove to centre of boat (except Tupperware as moving 2 inches is not going to make much difference). Tip: Lag your favourite water point now. Lagging is readily available from DIY stores. Just wrap it around the pipework. Then put plastic sheeting around that to stop it getting soaked. Tip: In summer keep your water in the tank and alcohol in bottles. In winter, to prevent your tank freezing and cracking, keep your water in bottles (plastic) and your alcohol in the tank. Tip: To minimise condensation, remember that the most important ventilator is the one above the cooker/kettle. Don't make steam if you can possibly avoid it. And avoid breathing out.

Tip: Keep a tiny bottle of lock (as in door lock) de-icer outside the cabin when leaving the boat!

When did you last fill your water tank? Level is a moveable feast on my boat...

I wasn't worried about the machine moving itself, I was more concerned about when I take it round the thames barrier or when I get rammed (again).

If you have open windows or vents on the lee side of the boat the wind can come in through the chimney, through the cabin and out of that vent. Once a strong fire is going it will generate a strong enough updraught to counter this flow. To start a fire in these circumstances close all vents on the lee side and open some nearer to the source of the wind, ie upwind of the stove. Then the wind will come in the vents through the cabin and fire and up the chimney anyway.

Do washing machines in boats just sit or is it necessary to tie them down, and if so, how?