Bobbybass

This one ?

Couldn't you just buy one for a tenner,?

I like that reply ? I've often wondered why people on this site...do stuff like that ? After all...in my opinion ( warning... Bob's opinions may vary from description)... It's all about cruising along looking at beautiful scenery. Having said that...blokes always like to tinker and change/Invent stuff. Often when you view boats they have some daft but "essential" thing strapped onto them..the product of much boredom and winter blues. A book full of graphs about how much sun the solar panels gathered on Christmas day...or some weird and wonderful combination of "must haves" strapped onto the alternator... For me....I don't do anything other than change oil and filters and cruise through some of the most beautiful parts of England. My gadget-less boat won't be worth any less than the one with its own spreadsheet ???

Maybe contact Steve Hand ..BSS and engineer...Burton area....he may explain better than me... I have no idea of the ins and outs other than the original travel power instructions were for vehicles and not boats and that's where he said the problem lay.

Don't shoot me...I'm just passing on what I heard I had a travel power on my boat which was about 15 years old when I sold it. It was a Reeves hull..and the base plate had a lot of nasty shiny deep pits When I sold it...it had been surveyed by Steve Hand at Burton on Trent. I went to do the hand over... and he was rewiring the Travel power. I asked him why...and he said the original installation instructions had been wrong and as such the hull was in danger of corrosion. He also said that there had been some cases where a boater had moored next to another travel power user...and suffered serious electric shock. That is what he told me...and he said he was reversing connections.

I fitted a system like that two years back. I feed the Eber into calorifier then two radiators in the hall (all 22mm copper pipe) but don't have room for a radiator in the lounge area so fitted one of those water fed blow heaters ( your photo) under the seat and it works well. The fan part draws less than an amp at 12volt as I fused it with a one amp fuse. I fitted a small radiator in the bathroom under the towel rail ... but also a second blow fan. It heats it up a treat. Really works well...much better than just a radiator as it throws the heat outwards.

I thought you were going to suggest emptying the cassette there....to keep the kids away...?

I did that. Mine was just 'water bounce' Hung polystyrene cups under the vents. Worked great.

I looked at a boat that a couple had owned for two years. They had bought it with a supposedly full survey that said it was good. Sprung a leak and cost £12,000 in plating. I figured that the recent plating should be ok but commissioned my own hull survey. Turned out to be a total colander at the stern... needing another £10,000. I walked away...

Most hair driers are about 2000 watts....on full heat at 240 volts (roughly) That will draw about 160 amps from your batteries at 12 volts .....

I have a screw on filter....so I fill it with fresh fuel before spinning it back on. That usually does the trick...but on a few occasions I have slackened one or two of the pipes at the injectors and turned over the engine. As it starts to fire I tighten them.

I thought it was only the Gel coat that made GRP waterproof...and that if it was damaged.....you got osmosis that made your boat look like bubble wrap.... I viewed some cruisers with osmosis...and they looked very.......bubbly

Having owned several boats....I never go over the top on items like this. If I spend a lot of money ..potential future purchasers won't accept my invoices for work carried out anyway, in fact I found it scares them off. Trying to reassure by saying I had it all done and they have nothing to worry about....leaves them running away...plus their own surveyor then spotlights it to a greater extent. My own philosophy is to carry out work to stop it sinking...and then get cruising. Weld pits...grind...vactan......Comastic...get cruising....

???

Well....to be honest with you.....I was so proud of the pipework that I took some Braso to it... ???

Last year I obtained this old Eber from a van...and fitted it to my boat. Was pleased with how it ran...but being bored in lockdown I brought it home and reworked it. I had the header tank separate from it...but wanted the whole assembly in one place. Trouble was that the header tank would have been a nuisance as it would have been in the way of the engine hatch. This photo shows the whole unit laying at 90 degrees to where it would be. The thick brown board bolts right through the side of the boat. As you can see, I have now used a low level tank from an Audi. I have mounted this on a kitchen drawer runner which is extended in the photo. When the tank is pushed back it's locked with a bolt...thus it is tucked back under my rear deck out of the way. The tank feeds the inlet of the water pump which is at the lowest point. The exhaust ( not shown ) is a proper stainless ...sealed marine unit. it's now simple to remove the entire assembly for service and repair. I rewired the unit and originally had a thermostat...but only use it for a few hours so replaced that with a simple on)off. It powers two radiators in the hall...one small radiator in the bathroom plus a bathroom blow heater which makes it red hot....a blow heater in the lounge ...and the calorifier. Simple unbolt from boat..one each inlet/outlet pipes...4 wires ..fuel.. exhaust..and it's all out and can be run on the bench. Whole system including pipes and rads..£400 Enjoy .!...(and criticise...?)

I can see these being taken off and chucked in the river on day one....

Sorry.... I should have added. The £10 charge is for overnight.....it's free during the day....... The lady comes around at about 7am... Some people.....make off at 6.45am ?

Wallingford is now £10 a night...and the lady is hot on collecting just before 7am....

Depends if you have a leather hat...

I have scratches on the side of ,my car... I'd better buy one of these quick...!!!

Get the exhaust wrong...leaking carbon monoxide...and you'll be keeping warm with the angels. I've seen several boats with the car/ van type silencer which is just two halves pressed together in the middle. If you block one end with your hand and blow into it...the air just gushes out of the joint. The carbon monoxide will do the same. If your heater is in the engine compartment...it will fill that with deadly fumes which will then flow into your cabin. The photo I attached is a stainless steel marine exhaust...and as you can see...it's continuously welded and sealed. You need.....a person who knows exactly what they're doing. !!