Iain_S

This would cause a lot of problems for small charity operators and the like, due to the "days experience" requirements for both the grant and maintenance of a Boatmaster Licence, as well as the expense of acquiring one in the first place. I am currently renewing mine, and see from the MCA website that if I need to have qualifications in Fire Safety, Sea survival and First Aid to get a 5 year renewal.Willow Wren at Rugby do a Fire Safety and Survival course for £195, but in my case and that of other Boatmasters up here the non trivial cost of travel and overnight accomodation needs to be added. (Local alternatives are separate courses at £95 for RYA Sea Survival and "Fire Safey Awareness" from the local Fire Brigade) Non commercial operators in my area include the Seagull Trust, who provide free trips to the disabled (12 passenger), and have about 30 regular drivers, Linlithgow Canal Society, who operate a 40 seat tip boat with a dwindling supply of drivers, currently around 20, and the 19-40 Canal Society who operate a 12 seater with six or seven possible drivers. The requirement to have an MCA Boatmaster Licence for 12 passengers woud put both the Seagull Trust and the 19-40 Canal Society out of business. Iain

One of THEM , perhaps? You could also use a 1/4 wave whip, instead of a 3/4. An amateur 2metre band antenna can be cut down for marine band, although you'd probably have to find an amateur radio enthusiast with an antenna analyser to get it right. A low height solution could be THIS, but performance may not be as good as a 1/4 or 3/4 whip. Iain

I agree. In fact, IMO the roof collar should ideally be a sliding joint, as otherwise expansion when hot needs to be accomodated by distortion of the cabin and/or stove top. Iain

It was more a case of stemming the tidal flow,than turning. In any case, it would have been quite difficult to go seriously aground on a rising tide and against the tidal current. Iain

Mitch-Soma. Haven't seen him on the forum lately, though. Iain

A boat can be held at the side of the lock with a rope passed behind the chain. Iain

The missing factor is probability of conviction. If this is low, the punishment has to be severe to preserve a negative cost benefit. If the burglar was caught and convicted after every job, a light sentence, (with no concurrent sentencing) would probably be enough to deter. This does not happen if the conviction rate (NOT detection rate) is low. Iain

Probably not able to help much. We got in early and paid for a mooring for 6 months or so before we could get to it! (before M8 bridge open) Grangemouth sea lock is where BW tend to have boats for sale, and I have heard it said that if you buy one there, you get a guaranteed mooring at Grangemouth, and some priority when you want to move. (Which you will, if you want to boat , as 14 locks to get anywhere is a bit of a downer, even if BW(S) operate them! There does seem to be some movement on the mooring front: there are a couple more boats at Leamington than there were a month ago, although one chap who bought an ex-hire boat has been waiting for a mooring there for months, and meantime has had to occupy a visitor mooring at Edinburgh Quay. I think it is possible to continuously cruise, although BW(S) discourage this, and won't issue a licence without a mooring.** However, the mooring could be at the sea lock, and 14 days could be spent at Falkirk, Linlithgow, Edinburgh Quay, Harrison Park, Ratho, etc. (Falkirk and Linlithgow have good train services to Edinburgh, although the train stations are a mile or so from the moorings at Falkirk) Iain ** But BW(S) licence plus mooring is still a lot less than BW licence

See you there then Iain (S)

Update on the moorings at the new flats at Leamington : The developer hasn't managed to sell any flats yet, and BW(S) have installed electric and water on the pontoons (which the developer was supposed to do). BW(S) have applied for planning permission for six (I think, from a quick look at an architect's drawing at the User meeting) residential moorings. Not sure how much of a dent that will make on the waiting list There was a rumour that BW(S) were going to buy boats to put on said moorings, but that was described to me as "one of the options that was considered". Iain

Yeah, you're right. However, it's the way I'd do it, having seen one diagnosis of a genny fault totally screwed by the low resistance of the genny windings Iain

The battery charger is working, which would imply some output from the genny, so odds are it's OK. The charger would never be run from the inverter , and so the feed to the charger will be taken off before the "Genny/Inverter" switch. So most probably wiring between switch and genny, or switch itself. To find out which will require a voltmeter set to a suitable AC range. There should be 230V AC or so between live and neutral on the genny contacts on the switch with genny running and inverter off. If there is, the switch is faulty; if not the fault lies elsewhere. BE VERY CAREFUL while contacts/connections are exposed, 240V can be lethal! I don't see how the alternator can be the cause of the lack of 240V. Do the batteries get charged with genny off and engine on? Iain

Deleted. Crossed with Dave's Iain

OOps! Bit of a senior moment, there As has beenstated, gas pipe will be measured on outside diameter. Iai

Remember, as I think others have pointed out, that imperial is sized on the bore, while metric is sized on outside diameter. (which explains why 1/2" is nearly the same as 15mm, despite 1"=25.4mm!) Iain

Sounds like 3/8" copper tube. But, as others have suggested, try to take a sample to the supplier. Iain

The plug in ones work fairly well in a confined space; I use one in the "electrics" cupboard in Gamebird. BUT they take a fair time/power to recharge the gel. OK if you can do it on a landline, where they funcion as a low powered electric heater, but a waste of time if you have to recharge them on board. If the corrosion is inside the casing, a gel sachet might do the trick, or something like these? Iain

Either the pump is faiing to cut out, as has been suggested, or the PRV on the calorifier is operating at too low a pressure. Do you have an accumulator (big blue (usually) thing, usually near the pump?. If so, it is possible to check the system pressure with a tyre gauge. Iain

Is the "110" Volts or Amps?? Iain

That makes sense Iain

But consistent with Gibbo's suggestion of a bad connection within the battery. 2 Ohms would be enough. Iain

It will need two wires to the light. The other one is probably still hiding in the ceiling. I'd be inclined to leave the solder on. Iain