robkg

Sorry to put the cat among the pigeons, but Ash is a hardwood. Rob

Apologies in advance for indulging in a bit of "ours are better than yours". As a large proportion of narrowboats are fitted with weed hatches, then there is no need to get wet on them either. I don't anticipate having to change the prop. for many years so no problem there. Also there is no need to reach out over the stern (or back up to the bank) so possibly easier. Rob

With this size of tank the weight of water is approx. 3 tonnes. Does your boats trim not alter hugely or is your tank central? Just interested. Sorry to go Rob

Whilst I maintain Mayalld's original post was a bit insensitive, I can't see any contradictions or lack of logic in what he has subsequently posted. It would appear to me that he is in receipt of disproportionate levels of anger from some others, which I can only guess is as a result of some of the stances that he has taken on previous threads. Still it makes for entertaining reading! Rob

Hi Mick, On Grace I have a Kelvin K2 which I fitted all the alternator arrangement. Wary of the problem that you describe, I had a bespoke steel pulley made with holes drilled to match holes in the K2's flywheel. The diameter of the pulley is approx. 25" which is just a bit smaller than the flywheel alone. From memory this results in the alternator spinning between 4000 and 12000 rpm. I do not have any charging problems with this arrangement. Rob

Your actions seemed the most sensible to me. By stopping half way through you showed consideration for the more impatient in the queue. If you had carried on to the end, I imagine you would have felt uncomfortable the whole time. I think you were just unlucky with the demand at that time. You could have chosen to wait in the vicinity of the water point in order to finish filling when the existing queue had gone i.e. taken your place at the back of the queue with any subsequent boats joining the queue behind you (two bites of the cherry) Rob

Thanks US Marines. I'm used to seeing personal comments being made on this forum, it is only a matter of time before they are made about each of us. As far as edging on oak faced MDF is concerned, I have one or two examples on Grace but no photos. We are on the boat next week however so I will take some pics and post them. Rob

In my opinion there is a middle ground here. Whilst Mayalld is making what I believe to be a valid point regarding individuals responsibility with respect to their insured property, it was a touch insensitive to express his views with reference to an actual situation that a fellow forum user is experiencing. Perhaps it would have been better for him to express his views as a general point in a seperate thread at a time when no one was suffering the trauma of a sunken boat. (he is mistaken about pumpout vs cassette however, pumpout is definitely better!)

My kind of boater!

What have I written to make you think I am a little amateurish with no experience?

The propshaft on Grace is approx. 12' long. I used a new agricultural tractor PTO shaft. A local dealer made it up with a single piece of "lemon tube" with identical flanged U.J.s at both ends. (I think I slid a length of inner "lemon tube" inside for added stiffness) This was very cheap and as it spins at about 600 rpm max. is working at the design speed for the components. Incidentally the components are designed for torque loading many times higher than my application so I don't expect to have to touch it any time soon. Rob

OK, read it again. Sorry if I am being thick but I think my post still stands. Rob

How about an off the wall suggestion (made in jest) If Paul were to buy the boat from the broker for the £50k asking price, and then take the sellers to court, claiming the boat was unfit for purpose, he surely ought to win and in doing so recovers £14k of his money. (I realise that he would still need to sell the boat on, but to maybe less litigious buyers) Rob

Clearly if solid oak edging is used to cover the MDF edge then the grain will run perpendicular. This can look very acceptable as long as the edging is not too thin (5mm is fine). If the OP is fitting shelves with either bookcase ends or bulkhead ends the the ends are covered anyway. I shall resist one upmanship on credentials. I am puzzled by your reference to the top expanding and contracting in only one dimension, I thought we were discussing faced MDF which will remain relatively stable in all dimensions. As for the edging, if properly attached it will stay put with the MDF.

I can't agree. Oak faced MDF edged with solid oak, if done correctly will, if the grain directions match be virtually indistinguishable from a piece of solid oak. (unless the piece in question is unrealistically wide) I accept that other faced board types would also work and may offer superior stiffness/strength, but edged, faced MDF is a perfectly acceptable and realistic option. Rob

The raw edge of oak faced MDF looks like what it is - MDF. If you want to do the job properly use solid oak shelves, or for economy, oak faced MDF with solid oak edging. Rob

Hi Phil, I have fitted out two shells. The first was initially carried out on dry land but impatience and a job relocation led me to launching the boat and attempting to complete the fit out on water, (15 miles from home). This slowed the whole process down massively, partly because it was too far away to justify a couple of hours in the evening and partly because of the temptation to go for a chug before starting work. Eventually I resorted to having the boat transported to my garden in order to complete the job. Several years later, with my second fit out, I resolved to carry out the whole task with the boat on land (this time on a friends farm), not launching her until she was completed. I managed with the exception of a cratch and cover which I have still to do. As a result, I would recommend to others to do the same if at all possible. I bought a 20' shipping container which was placed next to the boat and provided me with a secure workshop. With this arrangement I was able to work steadily and with no distractions. Given your cabinet making experience (and other practical skills) I believe you would be capable of doing a good job. Your woodworking skills are no doubt better than mine, and I managed two awards at the IWA National. One last tip that I would give to anyone considering DIY fitting out; it will take longer than you think it will, not least because of the amount of time it takes to acquire all of the materials and equipment and get them to the boat. Good Luck Rob

I have a macerator loo connected to a remote holding tank (700 litres) below the floor in the boatmans cabin. I have a home made self pumpout system (electric) as well as the facility for a normal pumpout. I have NEVER spilt a drop anywhere other than where it is supposed to go. Why are some of you so adamant that these should be banned as a result of a few inconsiderate users? Surely the individuals concerned should be shown the error of their ways rather than disadvantaging the rest of us. As for the old pro-con debate, I appreciate the benefit of of a four week cruise without having to give a second thought to sewage disposal. Incidentally, I fitted solvent weld pipework from the loo to the tank (approx. 16' length), the tank is stainless steel, I use no chemicals and never have, and there is no charcoal filter in the vent. The boat does not smell in the least inside or out. Rob

Hi all. I,m not sure quite why I am doing it, but I am currently building a quarter scale FMC working boat. I am constructing it from aluminium and have had to learn TIG welding. Anyway to get to the point, I am unsure of a couple of drive issues and would welcome any suggestions. The relevant dimensions are: Length - 5.4 metres (17' 9") Beam - 0.53 metres (1' 9") Draught - 0.17 metres (6 1/2") weight - 300kg (estimate) Prop diameter - 130 mm (pitch unknown but looks reasonably "square") I wish to power the boat with 12v dc motor. (although it will look and sound like it is being driven by a bolinder) My questions are 1. How fast would the prop need to turn in order to move the boat at approx. 4mph (actual speed not scale speed) 2. What size (watts) motor would I require to have sufficient power. 3. Where could I get a suitable speed and direction controller (preferably being fed a signal from the R.C. receiver) Any suggestions gladly received! Rob

Hi all, I was minding my own business on Grace a couple of days ago, when a narrowboat cracked and crunched it's way past through 2" ice. As the steerer came alongside me, he offered the following explanation for his difficult journey. "It's amazing how much trouble you will go to for a decent shit!" Clearly he was headed for the pump out facilities at Whaley Bridge. Rob

I have not followed a thread and all it's links as thoroughly as this one for a long time (I think the last time was the Paul Sylvan Webasto saga!) It was rather like being glued to a horror film, you don't like what you are seeing but can't stop watching. I have huge sympathies for "Hydrophobia". your experiences must have been a nightmare. I have fitted out two boats for my own use and with that experience, it is beyond me how any boatbuilder can begin to think that not insulating the shell steelwork from the lining material is acceptable. It is not expensive, it does not require a high level of skill, so it can only be a complete lack of professionalism and integrity. As for all the shoddy carpentry, the individuals involved clearly do not possess the skills necessary and should seek alternative employment. Prehaps I should look again at boatfitting as a business. Rob

Just a thought. Presumably the headspace above the diesel in a fuel tank would only have a limited quantity of moisture (as vapour) in it and so as long as there was not an exchange of air on a regular basis, not much water would end up in the fuel. This may require blocking up of the tank's vents when the boat was not being used (I recognise a potential BSS contravention here) but would be a simple solution.

Hi David, I would surmise that if you feel that you need plans for making bespoke shelves for your galley, then you are not an experienced woodworker (I apologise if I am wrong). If I am right then might I suggest that you ask a professional boat fitter to make them for you otherwise you may be disappointed with the result. Rob

Hi Lindybell, I can recommend HMG coach enamel. It cost me about £13 per litre eighteen months ago. An internet search will find your nearest stockist or buy direct from HMG who I think are based in Manchester. They will mix any colour when provided with a reference (e.g. a RAL no.) Rob

I bought a Ruston 2VSO industrial fifteen years ago. It was rough! I fully restored and marinised it using a PRM 160 gearbox. It was a two flywheel engine, but I removed one and added a heavy (homemade) pulley on to the outer face of the other one for driving an alternator. It ran beautifully, powering a 55' deep draughted narrowboat for 10 years, up until I sold the boat.