Mike Jordan

Sorry, I failed to mention that you will need to strip off the varnish prior to trying the oxalic acid. Hence the reference to painting being easier. Hi watever You are right, it's the basis of a number of bleaching and metal cleaning products. I don't think it's a good idea to use it before having a look at the H and S details. One of its drawbacks to my mind is that the crystals look just like sugar, on the rare occasions I've lent my box of crystals to a boater it's been the whole box complete with all the warnings on the side. I did read of an instance of a pub landlord drinking a fatal dose thinking it was gin. Not sure if the tale is true but it makes me very carefull! Painting the roof panels and superstructure with a light colour is quite common now, I think it makes the boat feel more spacious and takes away the coffin like look that you tend to get with older varnish which has gone darker.

The only methods that spring to mind are - bleaching the oak veneer with oxalic acid ( suggest you google the name for details and safety considerations) or perhaps much easier, consider painting all the roof panels with a suitable light colour to cover the staining.

My money is on Iroko, as teak has not been used for lab benches for a very long time due to the staggering cost. You will find Iroko to be easier to work with than teak although it has interlocking grain which makes it tear out if you are not very carefull. If I am wrong and it proves to be teak you will not be able to machine it without investing in TCT cutters and planer knives, the blunting effect is spectacular! You can only glue Iroko with epoxy resin two part glues although polyurethane is also reputed to work well with it. Best of luck with it. Mike.

I've just read a test report on a nice new boat in one of the boating magazines, and now feel the need to ask, why so many sharp corners? The photos of the interior show a stylish and attractive fit out with oak finish but with a multitude of nasty sharp corners. A well executed table top edged with oak moulding mitred at 90 degrees and a partial bulkhead with a right angle corner at just about elbow height made me look more carefully at the rest of the photos. This boat featured potentially painful corners on the hearth surround, dinette, partial bulkhead, table, a wall cupboard, worktop, and even the pelmets over the windows. Properly rounded corners do take time to do and cost a little more than cutting the corners square but on a boat costing just short of six figures this shouldn't be a consideration, even the cheap and cheerful end of the market tend to crop the corners off at 45 degrees and edge round that to reduce the problem. Sadly the report failed to make mention of these features, possibly the people concerned escaped without any bruises, another magazine I wont be picking up again.

On the understanding that it's not the best answer to the problem it would be sensible to glue the bottom or one side rather than all round. It's rarely a good idea in my opinion to use masses of glue when fitting out. If you are fitting a bulkhead and door combination which stretches right across the width of the boat I've found its better to allow the door to close up to a partial bulkhead rather than into a rebate. This solves the problem caused by cold winters when the steel she'll contracts and the timber expands due to atmospheric moisture. My photo gallery contains a shot of an internal door with a solid oak raised panel in it, fitted by a so called boat builder in Bath. It was one of many doors on a boat which destroyed themselves in the first winter afloat. They were competently made by someone with no idea of the amount of allowance needed to allow the panels to move with changes in moisture levels. Mike.

Retro fitting bulkheads is always a bit tricky to do and make a sound looking job. One idea that may help you is to use a batten screwed to the surface of the linings with a groove in it the thickness of the new bulkhead and about 9mm deep. You can conceal the fixing screws in the groove and then slide in the bulkhead material before putting the door frame in place. If no other fixing methods are available the bulkhead material can be glued into the groove. Mike.

The garage at Wheaton Aston is normally the most competitive for many miles, I can't recall ever having passing by without topping up there. The price is displayed at the pump by the bridge. Mike.

It must be a lot cooler inside this year !

Hi Big Col & WotEver Nice looking piece of work, well done. Mike.

I plead guilty to the charge of self promotion! The book was part of my retirement, it seemed a waste to fail to record the various plans and making systems that I had used down the years. Graham's book is very good for all matters on fitting out generally. Mine only gives detailed plans and methods of making internal fittings and furniture etc. It's intended to assist competent woodworkers to make the items, everything from porthole shutters to extending beds and roof lights. Also handy if you are not a fully competent woodworker but want to explain what you need done by someone who is capable, but can't spare the time make drawings.

Also on Amazon - Narrow Boat & Dutch Barge Joinery Designs. By Mike Jordan

The easy way is to have a secondary internal frame made with a pair of doors glazed with laminated glass ready hung in it. The tricky part is ensuring that the Internal doors are weather proof if you intend to allow them to get rained on. The internal doors can be folded back to the internal linings and secured with turn buttons when a clear opening is required. None of the plastics materials are really proof against scratching.

Brushing on the blacking is hard work, for years I had used a Turks head brush to put it on. Then someone suggested a small paint roller was better with a brush being used to cut in any edges. I didn't rate the idea but decided to give it a try, it was magic! Fast and with a good finish and much lighter work than using a brush.

There is a simple rule to remember with conventional staircase locks - first one in your favour and all the rest against you.

As a tradesman with a father who is capable of sheet metalwork you should be well placed to build your own shell.I have a similar background but had no family members who could do metalworkers but Have build several shells in past years. Fabrication is easier than woodworking, no joints are involved, you just run welds .where the plates join. Visit a few boat builders and look at the products. They are simple constructions and £10,000 buys a lot of new steel but not much in terms of ready made boats.

Hi Daniel Thanks for the help, Ive got it sorted now. Mike

I have managed to find nine of the photos from my gallery, are the others lost or awaiting discovery somewhere?

Haven't done it personally but I have seen it done quickly and easily with a large gas torch and a scraper. Obviously not an inside job and one requiring some care to avoid damage to paintwork.

They will normally fit diagonally through the front doorway. It's much better and easier to make a template of the required shape and cut them outside of the boat. It's catch 22 ! If you are using the shell as your storage area. You need to buy in bulk to get the cost down but moving the sheets around inside the boat as you work burns up time and energy and slows progress. It's better to buy as required and install the sheets before buying the next batch. Cutting four foot wide sheets in a six foot wide area is one of the great joys of fitting out. Best of luck with the project. Mike.

Doc1.doc If I have this right you should be able to see a sketch of my suggested method. Mike.

I think the best method is a rebated strip of timber screwed to the bulkhead with a strip of timber under the top tread engaging with it. No bolts or other fittings are required an nothing is fitted to nor are holes drilled into the floor. Removal is just a matter of lifting the steps about 25mm.

There was a excellent article on this in the Waterways World some time ago, written by A fine young chap called Mike Jordan. Look it up in the back issues, the foam sandwich panels are not worth having compared to sound proofing the engine space for a few pounds.