steelaway

Hi there As Gary said there are better alternatives to tiles now. If you can remove most of the fittings I would recomend a product called 'Plastivan'. -- http://www.plastivan.co.uk/ (also on Ebay) -- It comes in 10" planks and when clipped together is perfectly water proof. Not cheap, but so easy to install you could do the whole bathroom in an afternoon. Alex

Hi There I feel you have to be careful not to create a 'Knotty pine nightmare' (coffin?) I would chose the pine carefuly to be as knot free as possible. Consider fixing them at 45 degrees as a compromise and it looks very professional. I would stick them with one of the 'No Nails' type glue. I have used a Evode producd called 'Sticks like S--t' It really does works - you will not pull them of!! Alex

Hi There Stick the tiles on with a silicon sealant (choose a quality one). You wont have a problem as long as the walls are firm. Alex

Hi There I have just seen where you are moored. Do you still have the monster Land and Sea(?) barges going up and down. I was there in the summer and wondered why every one was tied up as though they were exspecting a Sunami. Found out the next morning though, when all the mooring pins flew into the cut and my boat set of after the barge! Alex

Ring Chris or Denis to come around. They dont seem to be doing any thing exept sitting at the computer. Oh - by the way I AM busy

Cover it with new T&G? Alex

Hi There I think you have to trust the builder. He will have built one that leaked before and wont want another. You will see any leaks when it is put in the water, check everywhere any way. Most builders trust to dye pens and attention to detail. I built mine on dry land but ensured that there was a clear passage under the floor for any water to drain to the back and left two ventilation slots in the floor of the rear cupboards. (I was also worried about the S/S water tank leaking) I can now check for any water through these slots with a soft stick of wood. I know it works because I had to pump it out after a shower leak flooded the bathroom. I have never heard of a weld tester. Alex

Hi There Try Soar Valley Steel Boats. - http://www.soarvalleysteelboats.co.uk/index.htm - in Chesterfield Great finish and very accomodating to your requirements. Not sure they can do a 70ft though but as Denis Boyle says you will be restricted as to where you can go, 57ft is the excepted maximum. If you want one quickly see my Add Alex

See my add. I just want mi money back. Bloody kids! Alex

Hi There The top engine tube goes to the top of the skin tank, just like a car. The pump drives the water in that direction. The expansion tank can fit into either the top or bottom tube. Make sure it is now big enough to cope with the larger amount of water in the system. It should have a small return pipe to allow the water back into the system when it cools otherwise you will have to release the cap to allow air in and the water to return into the engine. Alex

You would be better using a 3 way switch. Available from GS Controls. - http://www.gscontrols.com/standard-ac-panels-9-c.asp This is - Off in the centre - Left for land line - Right for inverter. Wire both 240V feeds into it with the 240V out to the fuse board. He does a simple 240V board with this switch 1x ELCB and 2x LCD Alex

Fantastic photo's. Thank you very much. I am pleased you all got away with it - JUST!!!!

Have you contacted your insurance company about this replacement. My friend put in a claim for the damage due to the prop getting jammed and amazingly they paid for a new (better!) gearbox. Alex

Hi There Its seems that narrow boat chimneys can never be long enough (compared to a domestic chimney, maybe 20' long) to create a proper draught. To compensate for this they have to use a smaller diameters. If your chimney is more than 4" in diameter this may be the problem. You might try a longer a longer top piece. Also to create a good draught the fire has to be roaring - is the burner working correctly. Does it make a difference if it flat out. Alex

Hi Glen What are the pressures - Min & Max Alex

Have a look at Worcester Windows. - http://www.narrowboatwindows.co.uk/home/stype.htm - I have them and still like the look. They are clamped in from the inside so the outside look nice and smooth. The glass takes out entirely to clean or replace it. I have the radiused top and bottom and think they suit a boat beautifully. Don't bother with tints - you can't tell, and make SURE they are well sealed to the steel when you fit them.

I think you will also get a shock when you price up a DAB ariel (unless the radio is supplied with one). Many good radios now come with a USB connection - recomended

How are you all doing at Sawley Any more pictures

Hi Rons Not at Shardlow at the moment I had to leave my boat on the River Lea in London for a while. You shouldn't need more split pins. My method of finding the hole was to feel with a terminal screw driver - about the diameter, but if you can't get it lined up contact me and I will make you a castle nut. Alex

I doubt it , the ones I have seen are a direct replacement. Worst that will happen is the fuse trip will trip Alex

They tend to be fitted as close to the front as possible, possibly because if your red one is faulty the green one will be still visible from the front in a tunnel - not convincest It is also often easier to wire them to the headlight in the cratch area.

Yes you can change the prop through the weed hatch, I have done it twice. It will necessary to have the drive shaft connected to the engine. Remove the split pin - remove the nut and washer - turn the prop until you have the key & keyway at the top - mark this position on the drive shaft inside the engine bay. Replace the nut a couple of turns - now you need a wedge to drive between the hull bearing and the prop. I have used a mooring pin - the prop is on a taper and the shock of an hammer blow should loosen it. As soon as you break the taper the prop will be loose. tie a rope around the prop and secure it to something in the boat. Remove the nut and making sure the keyway is at the top and slide of the prop, remove the key. After the replacement of the new prop, the major problem in changing the prop through the weed hatch is finding the hole for the split pin, if it in a castle nut it is easy - if it is drilled through the nut you may have problems. You may have to buy or make a castle nut. Good luck Alex

Perfect -- I have had one under my sink for three years with no problem. I have piped it to my standard mixer tap because we only use this tap for the kettle ect. You change the 10" filter when it becomes blocked. Cheap as chips Alex

I am sorry - got it completely wrong. Any cable has its own internal resistance and a larger cable has less resistance. With a larger cable you will have more voltage arriving at the fridge. This will help the motor to start, also the more joints/connections you have can increase the resistance to the voltage. If you have a standard domestic 13A socket plug you should consider changing it to a special 12V one to avoid confusion in the future.

Sorry I did not realise it was a 240V fridge ignore everything about volts drop 1% at 12V is a lot more than at 240V