RobinJ

Many boats have a space btween the tank and the bulkhead, so some noise insulation can help! It is more likely to depend on where you are running the pipework. Floor level tends to prevent freezing and enables you to have a gravity fed pump. If the plumbing is under the gunnel, then the pump will have to be pretty close to the tank?

I have a Newage 150 series that has an original oil filter made in 1975! It is not the same as the PRM 150?

Not sure when the Delta was introduced? Originally the Newage boxes all had numbers. PRM seem to have changed the numbers/names at least once?

I think they altered the design for the Delta (as many people had already drilled a hole!)

The simple answer is yes! Can I first confirm (due to changes over the years with names and numbers) that this is the sort of roundish lump? If so, they have no breather and therefore if worked hard or run in hot conditions tend to pressurise the seals! (Usually find this happens after a long river trip!) They only have two gaskets, which rarely leak, but a number of seals, inclduing the selector, output and input shafts, any number of which can 'blow'. Also the heat can exerbate the wear on the clutches, so if its over 5 years old, it may be worth going for a complete overhaul. The selector shaft is easy to change seals on, albeit fiddly, worst is the input shaft, output shaft may be easy if the drive flange will come off, otherwise both of these require a complete dismantling.

The key thing at this time is ensuring it is winterised (assuming you are not using the boat) by draining the water off. Servicing really is best done at the start of the season (getting all the spiders out of the burner etc.!)

Don't get confused by N-E source bonding and hull earthing!. If you have a land line connection the earth should be bonded to the hull. Ideally you should have either an isolation transformer or galvanic isolator in circuit, this prevents corrosion caused by stay currents. Any source you have on board (generator, invertor) should also be N-E bonded to ensure the RCD operates correctly, this is not required with the land line as this is done at the sub-station.

When I stripped out our fire, there was a steel sheet, plywood and polystyrene behind. No sign of the metal or wood being afftected, but the polysyrene had melted! I took of the steel and wood, put rockwool in and used aquaboard with the tiles straight on top.

Silly idea, have you pulled off a heater plug connection? Most 1.5's have the filter mounted on the back of the engine block and with the injector pump low down, tend to be fairly self bleeding (only a flat battery!). I turn the fuel back on, crack a return pipe connection on the last injector and use the lift pump to fill the system back up. If there are any bad seals/leaks you usually find them when the lift pump pressure builds up? That just leaves air in the injector pump which if your lucky hasn't got in! The bleed nipple on the body should take care of any, but if you have tried to run it, some may have got into the injector pipes?

As the type of injector pump and filters etc. tend to vary, you may not be able to get the precise pipe for your engine. See if you can find a pipe factors near you, they generally make up any type of hydralic, fuel or brake pipe you need. You will have to take the old pipe off completely even if it is in two halves, so they can put all the correct twists and fittings on it!

I think the key here is reccomended! As has been said, anodes sacrifice themselves to protect the hull, but can only cover maybe 20'? Provided you have space to fit them (e.g. V hull design). Provided you haven't got an epoxy anti corrosion paint. Provided you moor up next to metal piling etc. Then why not?

If yours doesn't have any sort of friction adjustment (they changed from big knobs underneath - to allen keys - to apparently nothing), have a look at the throtle connection on the engine and see if you can relax the return spring at all?

If your only taking off the thermostat housing, whatever the level is above that to your header tank, usually only a pint or two! You shouldn't have to disconnect any raw water, but will be self priming anyway!

Usually you paint the water tank to stop the water being dicoloured. True some of the bitumen paints will go a yellowy brown if left with water standing after being applied, buty normally its not strong enough to see a colour, just tatse bad! Trick is to make sure the paint is fully cured, then flush out about 3 times, leaving it longer and longer each time.

It will take around 25 minutes at idle and no load, quicker in summer than winter or under load. A lot will depend on the type of heat exchanger and whether you have a calorifier! Normal running temperature is between 70-90 C!

Would think the important sealing job was to get the collar sealed to the roof. If thats wrong you will have to take everything out to get to it! Plus the location of the hole might be important too - angle and bends in the flue?

I always thought it was a strange sort of description A proper fuel polishing system sucks the diesel out of your tank filters and separates all the water and pumps it back in very turbulently. It can take up to an hour for a typical boat tank, as it goes through the whole contents a couple of times removing all detritas and water in the tank. There is no point doing it useless you also change all the inline filters too!

This adjusts the cut out pressure of the pump, it may also affect the cut in pressure a little! Screwing it in should increase the pressure at which it stops pumping, screwing out lowering it! You can get pressure gauge things designed for combi boilers, which will fit onto a tap connector type fitting, these can be useful for checking pressures etc, if you have somewhere to fit them?

Are we talking about the copper end of the calorifier and the main cylinder or where a solder joint is made on the pipework? The PRV could stick if it furs up without operating. The knob allows you to rotate the PRV off its base to release water and ensure the PRV can release pressure. It could either leak because it is not seated properly or furrer up. It could stick becuase it is blocked. If the main tank is leaking then it will probably have to be replaced. The PRV may be ok, but may be too high for a new calorifier? Check that you know where the cold water inlet, hot water outlet is, which is the top and bottom connection to the coil. Has it got a non return valve (should be on the cold inlet)? Does it have an expansion vessel (should be on the hot outlet side - but could also be on the inside of the non return valve)? When fitting a new tank you mave have to change the pressure setting on any expansion vessel too!

An excellent job of going astern

It all depends on how full the tank has been kept. Provided the tank has been kept full, there will not have been much chance for condensation, however the diesel itself could well have deteriorated? How about siphoning off about a gallon from the bottom into a clear vessel and see what it looks like!

Painted the gate once with wet look gloss, it was still tacky 3 weeks later!

If you have a tyre pressure gauge! Turn of the pump and let the pressure drop by running off the water (this will check the accumulator is building up pressure). Measure the pressure in the accumulator with the tyre gauge (should be around 10-15psi). Close the taps and turn the pump back on (tyre pressure reading should be somewhere 30-50psi). Assuming this all checks out, you may need to take out the pump and check the head for debris (could be flakes of paint in the valves etc.), good idea to check the inline filter at the same time (as you will have to turn the water off)!

Probably cannot raise the temperature of things in contact with the water, but basically the trick is drying it. Nice warm day (could be a long wait) and possibly a dehumidifier?

I wipe the dipstick on them and every opportunity (like adjusting them) wash or treat them with whatever is to hand (parafin/turps etc.). Be careful with bleach and or anything that could help rot the core (eg carpet)! Canal water isn't much different to rainwater, if you let it dry it leaves stuff behind, so wipe it off. You can tell if the paint is ready for something different when the water stops running off or forming globules and simply wets the surface. Scrapes will rust up to a point then stop once a film is formed, so provided they are above or below the waterline, it doesn't really matter, they will not get much worse by the time your out for blacking. Problem is those that keep getting wet and dry on the waterline, thye will continue to rust, so treat them with something as soon as possible and keep an eye on them!