RobinJ

You say you have checked all the wiring? Just make sure you know where the earth/ground/hull connection is! Mastervolt often fit an internal earth on the shunt, if you have a hull connection on the battery side, this could confuse it? Shunts have such a small resistance they are unlikely to change much, however it is worth removing the shunt and checking the bolts, making sure they are as clean as possible (this would affect the reading of large loads rather than small ones?).

Water or steam from the header tank could be a sign of overheating? If the header tank was filled to the top when cold, as the coolant heats up it will expand, so could expel hot coolant out of the header tanks, but usually quite cool! If there was a blown head gasket, the combustion gases can force hot watery steam out of the header tank, if you remove the top, you should see bubbles and whispy steam with a particular smell! Some systems can overheat and expel hot steamy water from the header tank as a result of heavy load and/or blockage or poor coolant circulation, but usually takes time to happen (hours)! Expansion will depend upon the capacity of the coolant circuit including skin tank, calorifier or radiators etc.

Is this a header tank? Have you got some sort of bleed valve? A header tank will have either an open top or a pressure cap, and water should only be in it up to the minimum mark when cold. A bleed valve on a skin tank, radiator or calorifier feed etc. would be open to let air out, but normally shut!

You have to remember that as soon as the EV starts to fill with water the pressure on the air side increases to conteract it, so you end up with a balance as the water expands!

(Spanner in works!) If the PRV pressure is 3 bar (about 45psi), EV should be precharged to around 1 bar (15psi), this will allow the maximum expansion of water (for 5l EV, about 1.7l). Ideally you should then adjust your pump cutout, to about the same value to prevent the EV charging more. When the system is set up and working, you can then measure the pressures with the water hot and calculate how much spare you have to increase the pump pressure by. The normal way would be to work out the size of EV based on the initial pump pressure and calorifier volume and PRV release pressure before you buy it!.

Think more likely its getting hots and is leaking due to expansion, of course over-filling won't help. OP doesn't say how far they are going or how often it leaks?

Glad you found the problem! I thought the manual stated they should be faced level? Are you sure it doesn't refer to insertion depth?

If its the one I'm thinking of, you can set the timing chain up on the cam and crank, but have to lock the injector pump drive up too, before fitting the chain. The compression ratio given of 22 is not true, its the ratio of compressed volume to uncompressed, actual compression will be nearer 10-12. 380psi is probably the expected pressure, but above 250 it should still run, probably low because of lack of oil?

I still think its the timing! We put a new chain on a 1.8 and were convinced the timing was right, but eventually ruled everything else out (turned out the marks were in the wrong place!) It coughed and ran very badly for a few seconds, giving out clouds of white smoke, reset the timing ran fantastic!

On the ITT one, if you shut the grill door, it cuts out! Only way to reset is to remove the oven unit, take of the back cover and press the little red button, then put it all back! I assume they use a thermal cutout, but it works!

Most systems have a filter in the lift pump and a separate filter or water separator. Certainly the ones I have seem don't have another in the fuel pump. Does it start alright and then surge or is it idling badly and then picking up? Have you checked that all the injectors are tights etc. when its cold, it could be there is a leak and then is closing when it gets warm!

If this is the common cylinder with a bayonet cap at one end, the paper element should seal at each side and provided there is no 'bits' on the seal and it doesn't leak, should not be a problem. Could it be that air is getting in somewhere else, or does this only happen the once after changing the filter?

A few things. When you fill up, do you fill to the lower mark? Excess pressure may cause the coolant to blow the weakest point (and that may be the head gasket)! You imply you have a calorifier (or heating circuit), this could also hold an air lock. This can be a problem if the engine is not truely level and/or the coolant circuits have kinks and bends in them. Problem you have with 2 thermostats is, it will have to get up to full temeprature to let all the air past each one! Other option would be to do a compression test to see if one cylinder has lost some! Cracked head or cylinder normally show up with exhaust steam or milky oil very quickly, but at this time of year maybe not as easy to see.

Not ideal, no chance for the batteries to rest, you will need to check the water regularly and their life will probably be reduced. You need a good charger, ideally one that can monitor too, rather than simply a timer. If it puts in fast charge when the're flat, gentle charge when the're not so flat and shunts down when it needs to it will be better. Cannot reccomend a battery, since that will depend on load, cycle depth, space etc.

Alternator will develop full power at about 4000 rpm, so at high revs would expect to show resonable charge. Sine wave inverter will draw a lot of power, but system should be able to handle 100A! Ah! Sine wave inverter will generate a lot of RFI, so maybe suppression is needed. Where is the inverter connected (direct to battery)? Does the alternator go direct to starter, direct to battery? Where does the feed to instruments come from/where are they in relation to inverter? Putting suppression capacitors on the instrument feeds will help them, but alternator may be more problematic!

You will have to have it done by someone who is gas safe registered. However, many BSS examiners have a gas safe certificate, so although it may cost you, it might be cheaper if you can find someone to do both at the same time?

Possibly dodgy isolator ?

This indicates that the alternator is under full load. You don't say what size the alternator is? You don't say whta size the inverter is? You don't say what size your battery bank is? You don't say how fast the engine was running? Many newer alternators have a two stage controller fitted, whioh charges at maximum power and then limits the voltage to ~14.4V. This will depend on speed of engine, battery size and condition.

Section 8 currently does not require solid fuel stoves to be fitted with specific types of flue, merely they work and do not cause a fire hazard etc. However, due to recent fires involving solid fuel stoves, this could change?

Generally alternator regulators die from too much voltage or too much heat! Aside from any issues with the Sterling, always make sure there is plenty of airflow and very little resistance.

It occurs to me that both myself and Gibbo are right, just not necessarily for the same reason In a normal situation. you would either have a standard fused ring main or a lighting circuit designed to feed a fixed number of items, standard cable and standard load. Here we can assume that the cable is matched to the MCB, since it has worked up to now, but in a marine/automotive environment, fuses are in place not just to protect the cable, but the rest of the system, including fire (and I have seen it fail).

You are correct, the MCB should be rated at the maximum load, so if you have 10 12W bulbs, then minimum of 10A etc. If they all draw the same current its easier! It is advisable to leave a margin, especially if your using motors etc., just for surge, but you want to limit the current that flows during failure to as little as possible!

Spec is a spec and cannot be obselete, it can be superceded!

15/40 API CD!

It appears that most of the incidents of 'diesel bug' are caused by fungi, rather than bacteria, although there are a host of both which fall into this category. So I would assume that UV light would be unlikely to kill it outright, but may have some effect on its growth - think mushrooms!