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Steve56

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Everything posted by Steve56

  1. Can't you swap the pipes on the engine rather than the calorifier.
  2. That's exactly what should happen. The hot water comes from the thermostat housing, then returns to the pump
  3. Normally a good reliable engine as long as it has been looked after. The only one thing that was a bit of a problem on some of the early engines is that they had twin alternators, but both were operated from a single belt. One belt would come from the crankshaft then around the water pump and then also both alternators. In my experience this was never very successful and would wear the belt quite quickly. The later models had two belts for the twin alternators.
  4. Its the cover at the forward end of the engine. You will see the crankshaft pulley coming from the centre of it. This pulley will need to be removed first. It is held on with a left hand thread bolt.
  5. As I have said previously, that's the way it comes out. But unfortunately you need to remove the timing end cover and remove the internal lever and springs, then it is clear to come out vertically from the top.
  6. The loose bolt would make no difference to the water getting in. All that bolt does is hold the speed control lever in position. The spindle is held into the sleeve by the internal bolt.
  7. That explains things a little more. I really think you'll be very lucky to get it moving successfully. It will probably need the parts replacing.
  8. Looking back at the photos as Tracy D'arth says the engine does look particularly rusty. I also see that it is a heat exchanger cooled engine. Is it used in salt water conditions by any chance.
  9. It is an unusual problem that I've never seen happen before. The only thing I can think of is that the o-ring, item 18 in the diagram has failed and allowed water to enter between the spindle and bush. Thats only a guess, but I can see no other reason.
  10. If you look at the diagram I posted earlier in the post it looks as if spindle 58 has seized in bush 53. You may be lucky and free it off with soaking in WD40, bur I have my doubts. To be able to remove this spindle you would need to remove the timing end cover from the engine, and then remove items 19,20 & 54 from the underside of the spindle, then it should come out. Although if seized you will have a bit of a fight with it. Also when the end cover is removed you'll probably be working blind asI suspect you won't be too far from a bulkhead. I would respectfully suggest tat unless you are sure of what you are doing find an engineer to sort things out.
  11. A spring pin would be the best as long as the holes haven't worn to different sizes.
  12. The pipe is the pump bypass. The water flows from the left hand side and then back into the thermostat housing on the right. This allows water circulation within the block before the thermostat opens. So the left hand side is the feed to the calorifier.
  13. Sorry to disagree but the flow out of the engine is the left hand side, and return to the left ( thermostat housing )
  14. If the engine has been running for some time with the centre bolt loose the maybe the pin sheared off.
  15. Here is the diagram of how it fits together. I would think that anything you could find that is a reasonable fit into the hole would work. Hopefully if you can stop any movement then the centre bolt will not work loose.
  16. Yes I would have thought that would be fine. The only problem I can see is that the holes in the lever appear worn. There should be 3 distinct holes, but I looks as though 2 of them have broken through. I will have a look. But probably be tomorrow now.
  17. I checked this in my technical bulletins. They list all the mods for all the models. Its what Lister R&D department used to issue to us service engineers among others.
  18. As a follow on if its any help, I have just checked through the technical bulletins and the pin part no is 027-10103
  19. You are quite right and that lever should have a locating pin fitted. I think it is a case of which parts manual you are using. The lever you have there is a later modification so if your manual is from an earlier date it won't be shown.
  20. Thats the one. If you look carefully at the photo you can just see the other pipe. If you look you can just see the two 90 degree elbows, which are flow and return.
  21. Beta and Nanni both fit the caloririer in different ways. On the Nanni engine they just seem to cut the water pump bypass hose and use this as the flow and return to the calorifier. On the Beta they would normally take the hot water from the rear of the cylinder head and the return would tee into the engine return from the skin tank. This take off from the rear of the head would have a restrictor fitted so as not to still ensure good engine circulation.
  22. Possibly a small amount of air entering the fuel system. Or maybe a little stiffness on the fuel pump rack.
  23. Steve56

    SR2 Leak Off

    I think you are right . It does sound to me as if the marks are correct. I think they should just be left alone.
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