alistair1537

Lol - your answer (non-answer) is as bad as the posts without enough information...

It matters if you are trying to dump some pressure but not hot water - so the sensible fitting position should be at the lower end of the system away from your precious hot water?

We considered Argy-Bargy, but settled on Barge Inn...

I have the same engine - so I'd like to understand the issue. Is it that the original design was ECU controlled and now that it has been adapted to Marine, it no longer has the ECU and a timer bodge has been worked in to provide a engine stop? And further, it was the 555 chip that could have failed resulting in the coil burning out? Cheers Alistair

Thanks Guys - another skin fitting seems sensible - Thanks for the insights.

Hi All, Advise me please, My bathroom sink and shower connections - can they be on a common outflow? I don't want to run the gulper when I am using the sink. I don't want the sink or the shower backing up into the corresponding...I was thinking of joining the sink waste to the waste of the shower - after the gulper, via a Y fitting, but my concern now is that the gulper could potentially pump up to the sink? Any thoughts - or, do I fit separate through hull fittings? Cheers Alistair

Cheers - that looks the business! Just don't be tempted to tighten it back up with that!!

Or, why did you replace the pump at all? What was the old pump's failings? Maybe it's that, and a new pump is amplifying a problem better?

The reason I asked is, I had an old immersion tank the other day, that was built into a cupboard - limited access - to further complicate things the tank was turning whenever I applied force to the spanner - eventually I had it out - a co-worker hugged the tank to prevent it from turning - a long bar - 400mm x 16mm - larger hole drilled through the socket and repeated hammer blows...free'd it off millimetre by millimetre...worst one I've ever come across. So an impact wrench sounds like a solution should I run into a similar job.

Nice one! Any pics of the modified box spanner? For future reference?

Hi all - trying to sort a shower pan during lock down - It got me to thinking - I have space for a bath - so any thoughts on a bath with a shower? Yes no? How much would a bath get used? Cheers Alistair

Hi All Well, thanks for all the advice - I put some vaseline on all the terminals and glued a protective plastic cap over the entire terminal. I put the whole lot back together and using the Aux. post it seems to be okay. I haven't used the bow thruster in anger yet, so I'll be sure to let you know if it fails or blows a fuse - at some imperative point in the future. Thank you again Alistair

Hi All I want to get advice on the aux. terminal of my battery - it is one of two fitted for my bow thruster. The story so far - I have been the owner from new of my barge - around 6 months - fitting out. Recently I decided to open the battery box housing the bow thruster batteries. Not opened before, so due for an inspection and clean. I noticed some build up of the dreaded green "moss" around the positive terminal and removed the battery for a proper clean...that's when I noticed the cracked terminal clamp...then the eroded terminal... I think the cracked clamp was arcing and eroded the terminal...the terminal is now leaking, causing the green moss to "escape"... My idea to resolve this is to move the cables over to the available aux. post - the thread size is the same for nuts. Repair the leaking terminal with either silicone or epoxy and leave be. Question: Can the Aux. post take the current draw? Probably around 600A? If yes, then, is there a better sealant for the damaged battery post? Cheers Alistair

Don't change the oil - how many hours do you reckon the engine would go before getting the right filter?

Well, I don't, but based on what Man 'o Kent has observed and his experience I'd be surprised if he was wrong - easy to test if it's ferrous though, use a magnet? If it is cast iron, you'd still be in for similar repair - but it could be done. As far as the welded fitting is concerned - that is doable, if it does turn out to be cast iron - you could braze the entire lot together? If it is aluminium - no chance...dissimilar metals. I had another look at the pics - there appears to be rust spots where the paint has chipped? So maybe it is cast iron? If so, braze it.

I think you'd have to remove it - it needs to be absolutely clean - free of any oil dirt etc. for a decent weld - also, as it is Aluminium, it would require a AC TIG welder and I don't whether you'd find anyone arsed enough to drag such a machine to your boat... If you contacted a weld shop and sent the part and the fitting to them - even by post, I'm fairly sure you'd get it done - there must be loads of welders looking for business right now?

I agree with Man 'o Kent - that is not repairable, bar welding...good idea to insert the correct size fitting to maintain the thread - A decent TIG welder can sort it.

As long as you had the presence of mind to yank the shorting wires away...some folks would get a fright and let go of the wire, leaving it to start welding...

Thanks again chaps for the concern - yes I have heard of the RCD regulations - I'm pretty sure I can read and follow them. I will be building compliant to RCD regulations. I don't do things half hearted. Cheer up - we got to the moon and back. We can build a boat... Cheers Alistair

Hi All I have just received a bunch of documents from Alan regarding the boating standards - so I can do a bit of research - thanks for all your help and advice... I'm a bit of an old bloke - but I should be able to muddle through...how hard could this be? lol...

Hi Tony and Mike - I see now, so, I was planning to install myself, and have my mate, who is RGI certified - but not for boats, give it a look over to see whether it is compliant? I took the view of someone who posted above, that it must be done by a registered for boats installer - my bad. My experience is extensive in plumbing and electrical work - not much in gas but I do know how to make a gas line up - I just need to be helped with what is code or not? Be assured that I will follow the code. I am good mates with a local boat surveyor here in ROI, but with the current shutdown I can't invite him over for a look at what is being done? Would it be ok if I posted pics as I go? Cheers Alistair

Thanks for the comments and advice, I have Alan sending me some documents to help as well - So from what I have managed to get so far is that - The installation of the gas lines must be done by someone certified in LPG for boats - the entire line should be able to be inspected without any tools required - it must be of the right material for boats. It must be separated from the electrical trunking. On the electrical side - Long runs are needed for bow mounted devices - The reason I chose cable tray - actually basket - over trunking is the clipping ease it provides - to my mind having a long cable lying in trunking during a bump or two, may move it enough to disconnect and short? Learn learn learn...

Hi All I am fitting out at present and need some tips or advice regarding what I am doing or planning. I have started running cable tray under the gunnel to hold electrical 230V cables. My lighting will be from overhead drop-off panel - recessed and uplights - so that cabling will run in a central panel through the length of the boat - water pipes at floor level, but what about my gas line - I have a 6m line of 15mm copper to tee to a gas cooker/oven and then forward to a hot water heater near the shower. This I am going to run around 600mm high - clipped to the battens. All this to be battened out by horizontal battens to provide clearance and support.

Hi Bob, Thanks for the insight on widebeams - size wise it's marginally smaller than our vintage Guinness barges so locks and such were designed around that size so we shipped it from Liverpool on a truck via the ferry - - I imagine the same process to get to France, although I haven't done any serious research regarding the regulations on such an adventure - I'll do that when we tire of Ireland.

Hi Everyone. I'm new to this forum - I bought a barge ex Liverpool and shipped it over to Ireland - a widebeam sailaway. I understand there is a bit of bias against widebeam boats, but our locks can fit them so I thought, Why not? I like the extra room. Anyway, I'm in the process of fitting out so I may require pointers before making a serious hash of things. I plan to retire and live aboard - perhaps travel to France or Germany for a season or two? Cheers Alistair