Sarah-H

Hi Tracy, Yes I have purchased the antifreeze etc and a radiator filling kit so as you suggested I will fill most of the system this way and then pressurise the last part. I was all set to be up early tomorrow and get stuck in but turned my webasto on this morning only to get a high voltage error! :o( I have had a look through here and google for similar but can only find issues relating to low voltage. I have a multimeter I purchased when I purchased the boat and checked at the batteries and they were 13.2V but my webasto error was showing 16.5V so I think the conversion is going to have to go on hold in case I need to remove the webasto for repair. (No point spending out on antifreeze etc only to have to drain it down if the webasto has to be removed shortly!) - If I do end up removing it I think I will add a couple of ball valve/taps just before the webasto unit for future servicing! Oh well, 2 steps forward, one step backwards!! :o( Thank you again for all your help. I do at least now feel confident making the required changes if I can get the webasto fixed. Sarah.

I agree but unfortunately it's mainly the labour involved in removing and rebuilding the cupboards that surround the towel rads. (Think of abuilt in fridge housing) The pipework for the rads is underneath/behind these and they need to be removed to do the work. I did wonder why he couldn't just use the pipework that is on show for the existing rads to extend out to the new rads but he said it's too short to connect new pipework to and as I really like the custom one's I'm happy to switch to pressurised system and save all the grief and expense! Many thanks Sarah

Yes this is partially the case. Unfortunately the previous owner fitted 2 towel rads that are approx 8ft in height!! and there is absolutely nowhere in the boat that a header tank can go (not above this height anyway) so the towel rads were only ever hot at the bottom. I know I could remove these rads and fit standard towel rads but they were custom made (height and width) and no standard rad will fit either the space they occupy or the pipework supplying them so this means also replacing the piework, which means dismantling cupboards etc to access the pipework. After speaking with a couple of different engineers at a a local marina bar they both said they always fit pressurised now and almost never fit using the header tank method as it is the Webasto preferred method and they have less call outs for air inclusion into the system. Another couple of boaters said they are constantly topping up header tanks which for one was a PITA due its location inside/top a cupboard. (Apparently they had an engineer come out and check for leaks and confirmed that there were no leaks in the system and was likely just evaporation) Why would the header tank keep evaporating so much out of curiosity? So for me the switch to pressurised is far simpler and cheaper than removing the 2 custom towel rads and half of the 2 bathrooms furniture. (One marine engineer quoted me approximately £1200-£1500 to swap out the towel rads whereas the pressurised kit cost approx £30. Mant thanks again for all your help! Sarah.

Hi Tracy, Thank you so much for your help. I can definitely follow that so will be tackling it this weekend! Many thanks again! Sarah

Hi Tracy, Thanks so much for your reply. I think I should be able to manage that but just one quick question if I may. What is the 'male 1/2"Bsp adaptor to 15mm' you referred to used for? Is this to connect the filling loop to the male connection? (If so, can I just use a piece of copper pipe between the 2 as they are both compression?) Also, does it matter if the manifold is inserted into either the flow or return of the webasto? Many thanks Sarah.

Hi Everyone, I am hoping to convert my webasto system which is currently utilising a header tank to a pressurised system. I have purchased some bits that were recommended on another thread (Which I now cannot find!) Expansion Tank Evolve Expansion Vessel Kit Auto Air Vent - Bottle Vent I am just a little confused on adding the Expansion Vessel Kit into the system. (especially the Gold 4 way manifold) Does anyone have any guidance on what connects to what on the above image? or does anyone have any images of a pressurised system so I can try and follow it? My webasto seems to be a typical set up - 'Flow' from Webasto to Radiators and then 'Return' via a Header tank and a calorifier back into the webasto using 22mm speedfit pipe. Many thanks Sarah.

Hi Tony, No, a BIG thank you from me for your support and advice! I was feeling very stressed out this morning when yet another engineer failed to arrive and I couldn't find anyone with a similar issue online but with the advice you and others offered here I felt comfortable enough to get my hands dirty and see if I could find the problem. I'm fairly new to boating as you can tell but loving it and even happier to be able to fix some of the problems I've encountered myself so I'm sure you will see me again on here and who knows, maybe one day I can be offering some advice to others! All the best (for now..) Sarah xxx

Hi nicknorman, It was the very least I could do after you all helped me out more than you could know! Thanks again for all of your advice and support! Sarah xxx

Hi everyone, Sorry for the delayed response but I left work early as I panicked over possibly having left the immersion on! Thank you to everyone for their advice and suggestions and I'm pleased to say the problem is now resolved. As advised I managed to get into the engine bay, undid the mounting bolts and tipped the calorifier towards me enough to see on the mixer a few embossed letters indicating which spigot was H-hot, C-cold and M-mixer and it became apparent that the previous owner had indeed connected the hot water pipes to the PRV connection and the cold pipes to the mixer feed! (Having looked at the above image/instructions I can see why he did this and can only assume the calorifier was in situ when he plumbed it and didnt see the lettering on the mixer. Quick trip to local plumbers merchant for some speedfit parts and reconnected everything to where it should be and I now have hot water to the taps and PRV plumbed to the bilge. For a non techie I'm so pleased I could fix it without the expense and hassle of an engineer! (Especially as the last 3 that I booked to look at it failed to turn up!) Anyway, thank you all so much for your help and advice it has been very much appreciated! Sarah. Xxx Ps: the installation instructions i found earlier on the surecal website for this calorifier are not the instructions for this calorifier so anyone fitting these please beware!

Yes, Im getting worried now! last thing I need is an expensive calorifier replacement or a scalding hot explosion! Looking at the 1st image above (Just the actual calorifier) where would you say the hot water outler should be connected? The left spigot(?) or the one directly behind the mixer valve (Sounding more an more likely!) Thank you so much for your help so far!!

after reading nicknormans post above, I'm now not sure. It certainly seemed to be according to the image instructions supplied with the calorifer and included in my boat file but as this image clearly relates to a different calorifier the hot water pipe may have been fitted to the PRV outlet by the previous owner and not the tap by the mixer valve. I'm not at the boat at present but will get a pic as soon as I am back home. Thank you.

After having looked at the instructions supplied with the calorifier again I can see this might be the case as the image supplied does not quite match up with the calorifier supplied. If that was the case however, wouldn't water come out of the intended how water outlet? Thanks Sarah

Oops sorry that was a typo. If i twist the red PRV knob as per the 1st picture above water comes out of the hot taps but stops as soon as I release it. Hi, No, I get no water at all out of hot tap unless I 'open/twist and hold' the PRV red knob on the calorifier. Thanks Sarah

Hi, I have recently purchased a boat and after moving on have discovered that there is no hot water coming out of the hot tap. The water does get hot just doesnt come out of the hot taps. (Cold tap has water ok) The boat is fitted with a brand new surecal 55ltr vertical calorifier with a drain valve at the bottom and the PRV and Mixer tap at the top. (Fitted by the previous owner but never comissioned) The cold water feed from the pump (at the front of the boat) feeds the taps and shower before reaching the calorifier in the engine bay. It then feeds into the bottom of the calorifier and also has a T-piece off the bottom of the feed that feeds into the mixer valve at the top. I did notice that if I turn the red cap on the TRV to the open position water comes rushing out of the hot tap but stops as soon as I release/close it. Does anyone have any ideas on what the issue might be as I dont want to keep the PRV permanently open just to get hot water. My install appears to mirror the connection instructions from surecal except on my calorifier the PRV is also on the top brass part with the mixer valve. (The bottom appears to just be a water feed inlet and a drain valve) Many thanks in advance. Sarah My Calorifer: Surecal Instructions: