Tony Brooks

Get some adhesive heat shrink so you can cut back more of the outer sheath and the sleeve it with the heat shrink. If that leaves the cable too thin just add another layer of heat shrink.

I think the boat shed still in existence might have been Boat Showrooms of London. They were/are now in the backwater off Mill Lane and were probably the small boatyard you talk of. Actually I thin that has been another victim of apartment building.

I can't remember the name of the boat house showed as opposite Skindles. Bushnells yard was the other side of the little bridge over the back water with Andrews the other side closer to the existing boat house. The red car is more or less where the Bushnells car park started.

I can confirm RS2021 is correct. Sold to Rank Leisure who also had Richardsons of Stalham under their wing who became the operators. I may well have been the engineering foreman when you hired Fantasy 4. I think Bert Bushnell bought them out of the Wildes Broads fleet after one season changed the Rolls Royce RB40 petrol engines for BMC 2.2 diesels. They had very small fuel tanks compared with our other cruisers. I liked those boats apart form the fact they were wooden so suffered caulking leaks and the hand sof hire boaters and leaks form the cabin side to deck joints after a spell of long hot weather. When Richardsons took over they immediately tried to impose a pay cut on the staff (I was working for the MOD by then) who promptly walked out for other jobs. Richardsons then flew Broads staff down for each turn round. The fleet did not last long though. I understand the deal was for money plus a property in Portugal on a golf course. Bert only had three daughters and none seemed to show an interest in taking the firm on. He got out at the right time, within a very few years cheap flights to the sun left boating holidays only for the enthusiast so booking plummeted. Hence now there only being about three larger Thames hire fleets now.

If the TV comes with a cigarette lighter plug there is a very good chance the plug contains a fuse but even if not there is no reason not to use the socket apart form they tend to be crap quality and can easily cause the plug to overheat, soften, and distort.

It is an increasing trend as far as ID is concerned with certain councils refusing to pay the council with the most convenient tip for residents refusing to pay the council running the tip. For example West Berkshire verse the Reading, Wokingham, Bracknell consortium and there is something similar going on just west of Basingstoke. I am sure these are not the only ones with council finances being way they are. The R3 tip (Reading, Wokingham, and Bracknell) is only about 100 yards from Fobney lock (K&A) but displays notices that pedestrians are not allowed AND they expect you to make an online booking giving your full address and provide specified separate ID when you turn up. The barrier is controlled by someone who checks you comply. However Uckfield tip (Maresfield) is exactly as you say, not checks and I am sure you could walk in. There seems to me to be an unceasing tendency for councils to encourage fly tipping by making access to their tips difficult.

One would hope so but if the OP is CCing it may not be that easy. More and more they expect you to provide some form of prof of address in their area. If the OP does not have a car then they may not even be allowed into the centre.

I think Churchill Bridge is on the part that is semi-tidal on spring tides and I know that it is not very high so watch the tides.

You may have to, cross that bridge when you come to it. Technically I suppose you really should drain the calorifier circuit a swell, but if you stick to a 33.3% mixture I am sure you won't need to drain it. Even if it does drain they will often self bleed but if not it is either a case of breaking a joint at the highest point in the circuit to let the air out or getting a friend to help you with a watering can of premixed antifreeze and water. Set the engine revving say 1200 to 1500 rpm. Take off the calorifier return hone on the engine smartly placing your thumb over the engine side of the connection, and while friend tops up the header tank you wait for a slug of air to come out of the hose, then put the hose back on while the engine is still revving. I would say that given a decent fit-out there is better than a 50-50 chance you won't have to bleed it. When it is drained you could take the opportunity to fit a bleed at the highest point.

Yes, now we just need someone who really knows the area to give an answer. One problem I foresee is that a so called wide beam narrow boat (anything up to abut 13ft beam) probably has less freeboard than a barge from Essex so the fact one of those fits may not help you. A few years ago I met some chaps physically measuring the bridges to make sure their barge would fit. I fear that you may have to do this yourself.

Unless this is a heat exchanger cooled engine impossible to answer. The skin tank could have a vast range of capacities. There is probably an engine block drain tap/plug but to fully drain the system you ma have to take the bottom skin tank connection off. I suspect your best bet capacity wise is to either measure what comes out or refill, including venting the skin tank, pint of antifreeze to two pints water. The when bled etc give it a good long run to mix the liquids. Just count the number of pints and note for next time.

I think we also need to know the bream and width of the wheelhouse because an arched bridge will allow a greater air draft for a narrow boat than a wide beam. However I can't answer the question.

Agreed, I suspect we may be discussing a builder's plate with the RCD plate and number else where. If things are as Alan says I simply can't see Colecraft getting it wrong.

I think you might well be correct in that it was a phenomenon that had misfire attached to it rather than give more of a description.

Pleased it is sorted but I can't see how any of them could cause an occasional misfire. The glow plug may have caused a chuffing sound and worse cold starting and the loose cable may well have caused the idle to alter. I can't see how a missing thermostat would cause any easily noticeable problems apart from a low running temperature and a very long warm up.

The more jointing compound you put on the greater the chance for it to squeeze out and get somewhere it should not be. For a lift pump that danger is not that great but don't layer it on close to the centre. I think I might try silicon and put a bead towards the outside of the gasket and let it start to go off before fitting.

1. i would just lightly grease both sides of the new gasket but I doubt Hylomar will do any harm until you try to get it off again. 2. It may but I fear the lift pump mounting flange may be bowed, potentially from overtightening onto a thick gasket. Try Hylomar and hope. SNAP with Tracy.

The two forward gears thing probably means that you could get the box in either a 2:1 or 3:1 reduction ratio (2.09 or 2.82). Before we can enter your data into a prop calculator we need to know the actual ratio. If its a mechanical box put it in gear, mark the engine crankshaft pulley and the shaft coupling, and the turn the engine manually counting the turns needed to bring the mark on the coupling back to the start. Just seen its a hydraulic box so no good.

What is the reduction ratio in the gearbox? It is that and the engine power that makes the most difference to prop size. If the prop is too small (that could be in either pitch or diameter) then the engine revs like fury but you don't go very fast. Similar applies if the ahead clutch in the gearbox is slipping but in that case less water shoots out behind the boat. If the prop is too large it prevents the engine revving as high as it could so again the boat only goes slowly but at lower revs. So what are the revs that give your engine maximum torque and what revs does it reach. What is the rated engine power and gearbox ratio?

Personally I would T it into the highest point in the system so it vents air more easily. Have you tried to use one at 22mm and was successful every time? I can do 15mm with one but find 22mm ande above difficult and often kink the pipe and get the spring stuck.

Yes, pipe fittings, because I know that without a pipe bender it needs skill to bend 22 mm pipe through 90 degrees, let alone 28mm. Ideally you would make the bends yourself so you cam make them even larger than fittings allow but for most it is simply not practical.

I was talking about solder, push fit or compression fittings, whichever you will find easier. The important thing is an elbow so almost a right angle but a bend, while still turning the pipe run through 90 degrees is longer and deeper so it is a much gentler 90 degrees that causes less restriction to flow.