Tony Brooks

There are loads, which is why I suggested he Google for a local one. That is what I would do.

The "I don't look after them" bit makes me think that more flooded lead acids with lead calcium plates would do you well. Either sealed or with cell caps. Modern wet batteries seem to have extra liquid capacity than older designs so that, with the reduced gassing lead calcium is likely to give, means there will be very little, if any, maintenance to do. Just remember that you can wreck an expensive lead acid battery almost as easily as a cheap one, but the more expensive ones will have more cyclic life. However, on batteries that are not looked after very well then sulphation is likely to kill them before they run out of cyclic life. I used Advanced Battery Supplies for the ones I bought., but there are other online companies. Why.online - because they are likely to have a higher turnover of stock, so he batteries have less chance to sulphate while waiting for a customer.

Especially if the OP can find something like a darning mushroom or cabbage presser that has a convex face that they can weigh and put in the perspex over the former. Personally, I would cut an oversized disc and then trim to size once cooled.

Does it absolutely have to be convex? If not then you could probably cut your own from thin perspex. It might even be possible to make a jig up so you can soften the perspex in an oven and the draw the centre down into the ring using a vacuum and let it cool and harden. If you clamped the perspex between two disks, one with a base, you may be able to force the perspex upwards with air pressure. Just thoughts, but making the rings may take a bit of effort. There are also companies that offer gauge repairs, have a Google to see if there is a local one.

Difficult without the current, because the higher the charging current, the lower the voltage the alternator will produce. However, assuming may be 20 amps or less I would assume the alternator has a failed diode on one of the generating coils. Most large towns have an autoelectrical specialist who can test it for you and probably repair it. Let's have a rough location so someone local can suggests a company.

Nowadays probably not. At one time certain refineries produced red with no FAME in it for agriculture and such like that stored fuel in equipment from one year to the next, so boatyards could get FAME free red as long as their local refinery provided it. nowadays it seems this has topped so there should only be a minimal, if nay, difference between white and red diesel. Red central heating oil may be a bit different, possibly having a lower cetane rating and thus making diesel knock worse. True, but I suspect that has largely worked its way out of the system. The pumps most prone would be the DPAs and similar (BMC1.5s etc.) whereas the true vintage engines have very few seals in their pumps and in many cases a leak from their seals won't get into the sump.

That is exactly what one should expect. A full insulating hull coating and no electrical circuit can be made between anode>hull>water>anode, so no erosion can take place. What this also highlights that if an otherwise fully coated hull suffers a local break in the coating then all the electrical activity is likely to be concentrated in that one area unless there is an anode close enough to protect it.

Not sure what you think may be impacted, but as far as the BSS and examiners who stick to the rules then doing as suggested with the panels would have no impact. As far as keeping the ventilation is concerned, again as long as there is greater than (say) 12mm gap between the top of any vent aperture and the underside of the panel then I can't see ventilation being impacted an rain ingress as suffered by many mushroom vents should be stopped.

And just who is making the most pointless noise about replies mentioning the RCD/RCR in this topic? Who had the chance to answer the question posed by another member about how the RCD/RCR works, but chose not to answer? I think if someone had the time to waste going through this and similar threads where the accusation has been made would see that there is just one or two persons who divert them into arguments about the RCD/RCR and then moans about it and throws insults and unproven accusations against one or two people, rather than sticking to the point. I note that it was I, not the protester, who pointed out that this particular boat did not need to comply with the RCD/RCR, but still they went on when they could have let it rest. To be honest, it looks very like someone with a bee in their bonnet making personal attacks upon Alan and myself, which are getting very near to breaking the rules.

Just because you can't see, or more likely refuse to see, the relevance does not mean me comment it is not relevant. It is the likes of you that then go on and on trying to persuade the questioner that your view is correct, even though you seem incapable of evidencing it. Typical bully boy when you can't get your own way - telling people to stop posting for a couple of weeks.

I still don't think that you are grasping how some posters here operate and that fact that the regulations seem to me to be badly drafted so it gives room for interpretation. In many areas the current interpretation is informed by case law, but in the case of the RCR/RCD there is very little of it, especially for canal boats. I have been personally informed by email from a boater that an unnamed broker demanded a post construction certificate. We have had at least one similar case posted on here, and Alan has (I think) posted the advice the BMF give their members, so two of us are reasonably happy the brokers are refusing to handle boats without the relevant RCR/RCD certification. The usual suspects always dispute this and demand names, but totally refuse to provide any evidence to the contrary. The closest we get is statements like "hundreds of boats have been sold since covid" which is probably true and I am sure some of them were handled by brokers who did not require any paperwork, but that in no way means there will be no consequences later if a purchaser or someone altering their post 1998 boat ignores what looks like the law.

But others refuse to leave it there and contest what is said without a shred of actual evidence to back their opinion up. From my point of view, it seems you allow me (and Alan) to give one warning, yet you leave other free to dispute it as much as they like. People accuse Alan of block cut and pastes, but what he cuts and pastes is directly relevant to the questions asked. It is others who go on to spin such threads out by disputing what has been presented in black and white, usually from reputable sources. This is why I would be interested in how you would précis the RCD/RCR, especially in light of the latest updates, and to see how it is received.

That is all very well and good, but as those facts are disputed every time, how will it help. I would be interested to see how you will define the law and the potential consequences of ignoring it -------------------------------- and then lets see how people react.

I can't find the stuff LadyG lists on the current and upcoming list of offers, so maybe they are left over from last week. As I can't check, be aware that the clamps meter may well only be an AC clamp meter, so not good for boats 12V DC for amps. OK for volts and ohms, though.

I don't think that would work, because like it or not the RCD/RCR is the law and it is not very well drafted, giving opportunity for alternative interpretations. Then we have members who seem to believe it is of no consequence and can be ignored. That is fair enough when it is them doing the ignoring on their own behalf, but when they try to tell others, often inexperienced and new boaters, they can ignore the law with impunity I think it is the duty of those who may know a little more that doing so may (not will) have some ramifications later one. Many in that set also seem very keen to demand what they see as acceptable proof of any advice given that contradicts their beliefs, yet seem incapable of providing any evidence that the advice they object to is incorrect.

Thinking about it, that might just be that the bilges had not been cleaned for a long time, and they had been shut up with all the cupboard and cabin doors shut. We used to clean the cruiser bilges every year on the hire fleet. They were much easier than narrowboats because virtually all the floor would lift out in large sections.

Yes, that is what they are designed for - say about a 35Ah start battery only, whereas a boat has typically 3, 4 or more 110Ah domestic batteries connected in parallel, so each battery's self discharge is multiplied by the number in the bank. Personally, I am doubtful if, with the way boats see to be used today, 200 watts of solar would allow several days tied up without engine running, but that depends on the boater's electrical needs.

1. Cost to builder, but seems a good idea if it does not restrict air flow, but we never had a problem with mozies, daddy long legs yes, but not little mozies. An electric fly swat deals with DDLLs. 2. If you have space then fine, but a decent composter will be drawing air over the deposit 24/7, so half an hour of damp air should not matter and it should eject smells to outside the boat. You can always fit a roof mounted fan to purge the air in the compartment. 3. Cost to builders, and it has always been done the cheap way on canal boats. Yachts and cruisers are likely to have large removable floor areas, but it is more work because the bulkheads have to be fitted before the floor. Easier to fit the bulkheads onto a fixed floor. 4. I agree conduits, preferably with clip on tops are ideal, but as far as upgrades go (popcorn) you need to be cognisant of the RC/RCD of post 1998 boats. I agree the maintenance point. 6. Cost to builder and thus the final cost to customer. When I fitted cabin panne lining they were fairly easily removable without any damage, but some had exposed screws in cup washers whilst others had fairly wide trim strips to cover joints AND the screw heads That is not what many boaters think they want, especially if it adds a few thousand to the price.

and that includes the radius of the corners, they do vary.

Maybe they would keep up with the self discharge on a car battery, possibly with a little bit extra. I can't see it ding much actual charging on a boat battery bank.