eggpie

Several of the classic car forums think its blended by comma. Ive been using it for about a year in an SR3, and its been the best thing I've tried for the price. In fact, if its back on sale, I'm about due an oil change..

NABO's wider point is that they were wilfully misled by CRT. At the meeting, CRT presented a plan, which NABO approved. Richard and Denise are minuted as agreeing that CRT would perform specific actions. CRT then changed the plan, failed to perform the tasks they agreed to, and did whatever they wanted. There's a real,consistent pattern of behaviour from CRT again here, of saying one thing and doing another, of meaningless consultation with the associations, and NABO should be commended for drawing attention to that behaviour. Even if you think the letter is acceptable, what's the point of misrepresenting it to the associations? Why gain their support for one action, then do something else? Why waste everyone's time? Of course CRT's data collection system is bollocks. That's not contentious. Its been apparent to everyone for years. It matters more now not only because its the basis for CRT's dramatic claims of mass non-movement, but also (more importantly) for enforcement. How much more time and money are they going to waste pursuing people needlessly? How much stress will be caused for people who are cruising correctly, but are unable to prove their movements adequately? CRT's stated strategy is to target the worst offenders, but how can they target those offenders without adequate, robust data of a kind that will hold up in court? Plenty of CCers know that the letter probably won't affect them. And some people will pretend its "only the CMers" that are affected. Yes, some genuine CM'ers (if thats a thing) will probably be caught by this. But due to shoddy data collection and some vaguely worded threats, CRT have also scared a lot of boaters who shouldn't be worried , people who aren't causing any harm, people who might not even know there's a problem until their license is affected. That's what NABO are rightfully concerned about. They gave their support to clear and consistent enforcement. This isnt it.

Is it this one? http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pro-Rider-Wayfarer-Folding-Electric/dp/B00AE6H5ZS Because the big limiting factor in changing the chainset/wheel is going to be that plastic chainguard. That would have to go. (Check there aren't any vicious, sharp looking brackets holding that on that would have to go too..) Chalky's right. 52-3 teeth would be about right. That looks like the Shimano 14-34 freewheel at the back, and there aren't many (any?) alternatives that go below 13, so you'd be looking for the biggest convenient front one. 40/14 is a feeble 56 inches though, so I'm not surprised you're running out of gears. A 52/3ish front (a common road bike size) would bring that into the 70-75 inch range, which is much more useable. as Chalky also says, you'd need a new front crankset. Did you say the electric sensor is mounted to the one you have? Can that be removed? As for length, it really doesn't affect your speed, just the power/leverage to turn the wheel. At this level, its more about being sized to you, and what you feel comfortable with. Most everyday bikes are 170mm (or near to that..)

Easiest/fastest/cheapest (or at least biggest..) is probably www.chainreactioncycles.com , once you've decided what you want. Spa Cycles probably have a chainring to fit, and will probably give you all kinds of helpful yorkshire-type advice too. Definitely seconding your recommendation.. Also, don't forget that increasing the chainring size doesn't mean a wider range. It means all the gears go up, so if you're dependent on the lowest gear to get over something, that will increase too (this may matter less if you have electric assistance..) How much you increase the ring size depends on where you're riding, and how undergeared it is now. 52/16 is around 85-6 inches on a road bike, which is a reasonable top gear for everyday use, and there's no point going too big and having a ratio you don't use. I suspect the eBike is also heavier than your old road bike, which might affect how fast you ride it too. What's the bike? Or at least, how big is the range on the back? That and the wheel size should help you calculate where you want to be. Oh. Also, if you have an internal/hub gear, remember you'll probably need a new (longer) chain too. Maybe also with a derailleur, depending on how long your existing one is.

agreed. My old Norman 23 used to stay pretty warm (as in 45-50C, with snow outside) with the smallest MachineMart Pot belly. With the bed/seating in the bow, and the stove behind that, there was only the outside deck that was more than 10 feet or so from the stove. 2-3kw is plenty powerful for a 23 ft GRP boat, even a badly insulated one..

You would not be the first person to suggest that idea to Thomas..

Slightly off topic, but I've been thinking about this: As that's okay for a Semi Trad, what happens if you were to put a fixed roof over the top? That would effectively be a trad stern with a gas locker in the engine room. I'm guessing that's not allowed (especially with the wooden locker lid not being gas tight). Would it be different if the locker was fully sealed and welded (and vented as above), with doors to the outside?

So how is the situation with the EOG mooring different to a yard with a crane? The act says (i)the Board are satisfied that a mooring or other place where the vessel can reasonably be kept and may lawfully be left will be available for the vessel, whether on an inland waterway or elsewhere; If the yard & crane constitute that "other place [..]elsewhere", then someone can have that same relationship with a yard? A field that is available, but I dont pay for now, while having an arrangement to pay for when I need it, just as I'd have an arrangement to hire the crane to get me there when I need to? Surely that place could easily be entirely outside CRTs control/monitoring and still be legitimate? So anyone CCing in a 23 foot cruiser who has access to a driveway and trailer could justifiably claim to have a "mooring or other place", and thus is not CCing ? Given that CRT can't (don't usually) do anything about the amount of time spent at that home mooring, how often would someone have to be lifted out to satisfy the Board? How often would I have to put my hypothetical Norman 23 in my own hypothetical driveway (arguably both "lawful" and "reasonable") to not be considered a CCer? Surely my own house couldn't be considered a ghost mooring?

Exactly. And you're guaranteed to learn something, even if that does turn out to be "Never buy a narrowboat because some people on the internet told you to". Whatever happens, its a great story for the grandchildren (not necessarily yours). Oh. As for the planning? I think I can pretty much guarantee that life on the cut will never work out quite how you planned it. But its a great way to live, and if you're ever around west london, you're welcome to drop in here and meet the locals.

You do know the only way to know for sure is to do it? Seriously, if you've been thinking about it for 20 years, stop thinking. Buy the boat (if not this one, then keep looking. Other boats are available..) If it doesn't work out, or you hate it you can always sell it again, or even buy another boat that suits you better?That's not a mistake, or a failure, or a weakness. It's part of self discovery, of finding out what you want and how you want to live. There isn't a price on that. Yes. There will be "what have I done?" moments. And "I hate this" and "Why has all my money gone to the chandlery and Toolstation?" and "why am I sticking my arm in a freeing canal cutting bits of abandoned sofa off my prop when all I really want is a nice cup of tea and maybe some cake?", and a million other things. Starcoaster has a better list than anyone of things nobody tells you: http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=44221&page=1 Plenty of people try boats, and decide its not for them. Every one of those things on that list has probably put someone off at some point. Maybe one of them will make some of us quit at some point in the future. Maybe we all will. Maybe CRT will stop letting us put boats on them there canals because theyre dangerous or unsightly or get in the way of cyclists. Who knows what the future holds? But thats not what you're really asking. We can't tell you why you'd hate it any more than we can tell you why you'd love it, because we all make our own priorities and wants and needs. Some of us have widebeams or dishwashers or pumpouts, and others of us hate every one of those things we've mostly got our own, fiercely held, opinions about every one of those things. We can't tell you what you're going to find works for you (although that won't stop a fair few people trying..) The only way to find out is to do it for yourself. Stop thinking about it. Buy a boat. If you decide you hate it, sell it and start thinking about what else you'd like to do and go do that instead. Then buy another boat.

I think it depends which LEC model you have. Some of the older ones may be gas guzzlers, but I have a newer LEC one that uses a lot less power (it's essentially the same as the Shoreline models, using LEC cabinets and a 12V Danfoss compressor). It might be worth checking which one you have before you go shopping, given the surveyor's high opinion of it. I think you're still using more power than you're creating though Fix that before you replace the batteries, or you'll end up doing the same thing to the new ones.

We fitted one to a boat that has a plank rack at the stern too (and a couple of roof boxes in front of that) but by putting the panel in front of the centre ropes there was space for a single 240w panel. I'd go with the front if that's where the panels work best for you. There are plenty of handy cable size calculators out there. Here's one: http://www.solar-wind.co.uk/cable-sizing-DC-cables.html You'll have to estimate how many metres it is to Ying Tong Yang though..

Thats where mine are. My 240w panels are 1m wide, and mounted lengthways on storage boxes, but that still leaves plenty of space to walk down either side when I have to. I have one at the front too, but with big enough cable voltage drop isn't a huge problem. The cables on my semi trad are similar to PaulC, I think. Proper cable gland into the cabin, straight into the MPPT controller in my electrical cupboard. EDIT: Thats a nice cable gland. Much prettier than mine.

^this. Parts for the A127 type are easily available. Although I paid <£50 for an unbranded replacement that's still running perfectly, and then rebuilt the original as a spare. Do you know what's wrong with yours?

Blizzard, you're absolutely right. (not about the fish though..) Painted canvas can be watertight. Its been that way all winter, because I did all those repairs last autumn. Which is why I'm so puzzled by the dripping now its stopped raining. I do like the idea of a mini convection ecosystem inside the cabin. It does look more like water from somewhere condensing inside the roof and trickling backwards. I might remove a few panels and see if I can trace it. (As for water in the bilge, I got onto my neighbour's boat yesterday and almost disappeared down the open bilge inspection hatch in the cabin. There must have been a few inches of water in there, almost up to the floor. I asked the owner, and she said "Oh, that's nothing. Its much deeper than that in the engine bay.")

I have a persistent drip from my ceiling. However, it didn't leak all winter, and has only really become obvious in the last week or two. This is puzzling because it really hasn't rained at all in that time. Its a wooden cabin, with the roof covered in the usual heavily painted canvas. The edges have also been sealed in resin to increase waterproofing. The wooden cabin is constructed over a steel channel frame. The water seems to be coming down the inside of the interior T&G cladding, and dripping down from the end of a section at the back. It also only seems to happen in the daytime. As it seems unlikely to be rain, and there isn't any water pipe up there, should I just assume its condensation? Or the winter damp finally drying out now its warm? Is there anything I can do to stop it?

That'll be why the side plates have bent then..

Amazing! Thanks Richard (and everyone else). Looks like another trip to Uxbridge then..

Well spotted! Technically, they're not cracks, but gaps between the plates where they've distorted. I know simply filling them isn't a great long-term solution I'm actually planning on replacing the stove with a back boiler/radiator system, but that's a whole other thread.. I was hoping I could make this stove last another winter (or until I get round to it) though. Hmm. I might give Northern Fabrications a call. Maybe they've got something that might fit..

I decided it's time to clean out the stove ready for winter. When I opened it, I discovered the grate inside is cracked (okay, its split in two..). I suspect this means I should buy a new one. However, I have no idea what kind of stove it is. Does anyone recognise this? Yes. I know the floor needs cleaning.. Alternatively, what else can I use as a grate? Someone suggested cast iron drain covers?

True. And that's definitely a better board. As I said, other boards are available But then I'd bet the OP's 10v PSU isn't exactly 10v either, so I doubt a DAB/ipod dock is that precise, and it might just run fine on the <9v you'd get from ageing duracells.. Anyway, now its summer, the solar panels mean that nominal 12v is rarely less than 12.6-7v..

Exactly. Why build your own? Ready made Dc-DC converters are pretty cheap. This is under £2 (plus postage) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LM2596-DC-DC-Step-Down-Adjustable-Power-Supply-Module-Buck-/140994896639?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item20d3f362ff Other suppliers/boards are available ( search ebay for lm2596 , for example) Plug your 12v in one end, attach the plug from your existing adapter to the other end (watching for which side is +ve), and adjust until you get 10v out. My DAB is running off one of those right now.