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  1. I'll happily say hello but I won't hear you coming over my national, its not exactly quiet
  2. Welcome to the world of wooden and tco boats
  3. Sorry I've not checked forum for ages got too depressed at not being able to get to boat in 4 months. I did speak to Al.
  4. Best way to remove air lock is to Have input to engine about 2 inches up from bottom of tank (stops you picking up any partials in the tank) Have you return to the tank (from engine) at the top of the tank. have a pipe off the tank and run up and above engine with a small open tank or just a breather on the top of the pipe. Rn and nationals can't run a pressure system so as long as the small fill pipe is above engine you can't get water to escape. If you have 2 tanks e.g one each side or something sim have a join pipe at top and bottom of the tanks
  5. Decompression leavers are recommended even if you have electrical start as you can a turn engine over without starting on starter and prime oil but also on shut down you can flick Decompression so engine dosnt hit tdc and bounce the engine back
  6. I have a video of it and how it works but can't upload ill put on YouTube and add link
  7. The decompression system is very easy to put back into place and only takes a few bits to do so, I have spares of this as my original was semi shot so I fully rebuilt mine at first lock down, it's a very simple system, effectively a bar with a oval screwed to it and a lever as long as you have the stock rocker arms its very simple.
  8. Still have hand start only on my national! Never had electric fitted, I'm still in the process of fitting electric start but so it can be removed and not effecting the engine looks from original, all bolt on stuff. Yes comment about the tick at lower rpm would drive you mad, as you can't hear other noises over it. If you have ever been with say a lister jp2 or hr or ha or hb as they shut down with hand start at low rpm on a national it sound like this but constant. I've got my rpm set so it's just above this point occasionally in drive you can hear it but not very
  9. I don't see the point of overplate apart from being potentially cheaper but can still be a risk to interior in which case cut and weld is the far better option
  10. Severners were fully welded, the bow looks right, no pice of the sturn so unable to tell if they cut the middle or the sturn, can tell its old as the plates are all bent between the knees. traditionaly they had the cabins the otherwise round had engine at back and beds / cabin in front. Seam a tad high priced although I remember a josher (beginning with s) with full conversion being for sale at over 100k think was 120k. And Chiswick a few years ago was at 80+k when advertised
  11. Peacock has the same sort of chain but black iron. I'm trying to see if a local guy will copy a photo of the chain, I but I would say that was a fmc supplied chimney and chain as its the same as on Peacock and both the upper loop and lower loops are the same as the pics
  12. I have a jig to do this its a steel jig with leather inserts to protect the brass, all parts a fully sanded then polished before bending, then once everything is shaped and then republished. It also allows me not to have to hammer (press) marks and keeps all bends constant flow (no odd flat spots on the bends) I have jigs for the d link and jigs for cutting and for the 2 parts of the link. Everything is hand made, but the jigs help to get everything all the same i know you do get verified parts but I find people these days expect every mm of items to be the same. I did
  13. Thanks I've got 2mm, you have one off the odd backwards ones, i could never work out why some have the middle this way or the flat bit on the other way. I'll stick with 2mm then and see how I get on. Your looked a little narrow too bit like mine was some have a really wide center. Thanks dave
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