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  1. billybobbooth


    will be new one. so no need to worry about contamination. I have no idea on how effective they will be but has to be better than a single 600mm strait pipe with small fins off it. as the genral answer seams to be that an good thick well built oil cooler will at least flow the water threw it and have some form of cooling / heating think I'll just bite the bullet and try one. I can always install a few pc fans near them to blow a bit of air round them but it's fairly cool under the floor.
  2. billybobbooth


    there are 2 im looking at 1 looks like a small intercooler almost like a race car rad (not the normal thinner oil cooler) the other is a snake type pipe with fins across it.
  3. billybobbooth


    quick question my current under floor heating rad as broken, my fault I stood on it when I fell off the prop trying to get to the sturn gland to change the grease pipe. it's only a 15mm bar with fins off it. it got very hot but didn't really do what I was hoping. I'm looking at replacing with a bigger rad but the only rads that fit in the gap are long oil coolers these have a 1/2 bsp fitting so are the same fittings as the rest of the system. it's only a low flow no pressure system with a manual flow control valve in. anyways these oil coolers will flow enough liquid and as water is thinner than oil the Water will go threw them with no problems but my question is would an oil cooler work? i dont have the space to put in a normal rad but oil coolers are alot smaller so would fit in the gap.
  4. billybobbooth

    oil pressure and flow gpm

    please bare in mind this was done with old oil reason I would rather throw away a £5-£10 filter in testing as i need to remove they system again fully fitting in place once happy there are no leaks or problems ill replace filter, clean sump and gearbox and replace oil. + I don't want new oil sitting in engine over winter as this is when it gets a coldest but b wettest in the engine room so gets more water mix than in summer.
  5. billybobbooth

    oil pressure and flow gpm

    well I fitted my new bit of kit, took a while to get lined up but got it on in the end pumped oil round, fired up well 2nd attempt 1st was a pitafull attempt. and intresting ive got between 3-4.5bar of back pressure on the system 3 at idle and 4.5 on higher rpm this was same after 5-10 mins of running so oil didn't get warm this is also with a 7 micron filter as i want to get rid of as many bits as pos before I do my oil change ill then run another 7 micron for a few months on my run up to the port and then will go to a 10 or 25 micron filter. intresting though is on idle even after 10 mins my oil pressure gauge for the engine was still around 20 ish psi and on higher rpm was around 35-40psi and not bouncing so my old oil filter was clearly too big a causing problems. my only fear is the back pressure at the filter as the change filter pressure is 1.5 bar and I'm at 3-4.5 but hopefully this is just down to filter micron choice. but all in all my main oil pressure is up and far more stable...
  6. billybobbooth

    BCN Gauging Plates

    think was Bee who did mine sorry the wife's ones (were here birthday prezzys after all) good quality and still look good!
  7. billybobbooth

    oil pressure and flow gpm

    my current set up has oil pump - filter - relief / bypass valve (excess pressure goes back to sump) the filter is currently a paper filter in a old purolator canister. I'm looking into changing this to a spin on filter with no built in valve but the the housing to have a valve it. it will also have a back pressure warning so if the filter gets too blocked it will indicate a filter change required as it will be a 7 micron filter not a typical 10 or 25 micron. I would rather change the filter regually than not + it gets grease in the oil due to some of the lubricating points. my problem is a I don't know what my oil pump can put out gpm or lpm. I also don't know what pressure the pump can handle if the relief / bypass after the filter fails this would cause there to be atleast 80+ psi in the line yes meaning 0 for the oil is being bypassed back into the sump. what I don't want to happen if this fails is for the filter to crush or give up and leak and then 0 oil gets to the engine I would rather all oil got to engine at higher psi than none. so I wanna put in a filter and housing and pipes that can deal with this but not have to spend £££ on a 1500 bar system as it will never get that high. most people don't worry but at £18k for a new replacement engine of same type or close to that to put in an appropriate engine I would rather be over engineered that cause catastrophic damage. the worst over oil pressure will do is cause oil leaks or pos wear a bearing more due to the rampage not score and destroy everything. I have a 0 compression leaver so a runaway is easy to solve by killing compression unlike some engines that only lower it.
  8. billybobbooth

    oil pressure and flow gpm

    my oil pressure is about 35 but i use to have very poor oil pressure due to ever gap blocked, by mistake once I didn't realise the oil relief valve was in the original filter and when took this off it was over 80psi but I'm more worried about the if the valve fails the paper filters will give up and get into the oil ways so I'm going onto spin on filter but wasn't sure what these pumps can put out oil flow wise. I know the pressure comes from the bearings but didn't know what these pumps can handle as im planning on getting a filter with safety valve fitted.
  9. billybobbooth

    oil pressure and flow gpm

    does anyone have any idea what psi before pump relieve valve a national or rn 2 cylinder runs at? I know its over or around 80-100psi also anyone know how much oil the pump flows roughly? in gpm? the sump holds 10-15L so 2.2 - 3.2 gallons. I'm guessing around 0.5-1gpm maybe?
  10. billybobbooth

    Correct oil filter

    I'm now too looking at doing my filter and after 2 years of not being able to find the correct filter I have found a lorry filter screw head that will fit my purolator setup my question is do any of you guys know if your filters have a bypass valve in them and if so what rating? think the one I looked at had a 1 bar or a 2.3 bar bypass. my filter is going in before they oil pump pressure relief valve as its still got the stock side filter with control valve. or am I correct in thinking that I need a hydrolic filter or high pressure rather than a normal type given the pump is putting about 90+ psi I pressure threw the current filter as its before the stock remote oil relief valve?
  11. billybobbooth

    Disecting a narrowboat

    I would like too add the part of cutting a good butty up in the middle to then add a new length of middle and bow or sturn so you get 2 60-70 foot boats is the bit i dont agree with. when you could have cut the back off the butty build a good looking or copy of a old motor counter or even used parts of the butty back to build the swim for the counter to sit on if the steel is that useabe to make 1 boat and using near to no extra steel to have created a compleatly new boat using the converted butty as measurments. I do understand that if it's a really poor example that sometimes is the middle that can only be saved. but cutting a good butty up into 2 motors just so you can sell each boat as ex working boats is just a waist of a good ex working boat and clearly shows there is no intrest in the history saving, but just money making at play. I know I look at boats differently to others in that I wouldn't remove wood and put steel in its place be it a cabin or bottoms but i also realise why people do and I'm not against development of construction methods or materials. i also would rather stick to a riveted repairs for steel thats far too gone rather than cut it out and weld say a new side in unless the boat was welded from new. my views are very sim to a joey, if convertion is the only way to save it ok but it's they way it's done squire is a good example that the hull even for the counter and swim used as much of the original boat as pos by bending the sides to make the swim and even part of the counter and wasn't just cut and a compleatly new sturn built. or again wasn't 1 boar but cut up to make 2 boats. This is why my personal boat wanting list gets smaller and smaller this is why if I have to choose a boat for an award its always based on weather the owner has tried to keep a boat as close to original construction as pos or within its history.
  12. billybobbooth

    Disecting a narrowboat

    I noticed a few have said about converting buttys to motors but this isn't any diffrent to what alot of old carries use to do, there are a number of motors about that use to be buttys from a by gone working era. it was also done from motor to butty due to lack of engines that then got converted back to motors. I semi see an issue with cutting a boat up to make 2 boats but i don't have an issue turning a boat from 1 form to another. also alot of Tugs were made from full length boats with either the middle or a bow or a back cut off. so these that don't fully agree should boats like England, Enterprise, Dane (TCO), Severn (TCO), Holland ect ect all be returned to how the came out or is this not a part of there history and now in a form that they survive and still loved?
  13. billybobbooth

    just intrested to know (semi diesel paraffin blowlamp)

    jag has a problem that she dosnt need a blow lamp. I thought spay was gas. minnow not seen in her for long time but was gas was just intrested as i know alot are now gas. I always found gas took longer and didn't burn as hot
  14. kinda intrested to know how many engines still use a paraffin blowlamp to start there engines? i know lots of semis are about but most use gas now, at one point there must have been 100s of them about i can only think of 4 dane (clayton) peacock (fmc) beech (fmc) engine now at the cafe 20hp with gearbox at the port
  15. billybobbooth

    K2 on ebay

    why was this not a k1!!

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