arcsyst

I had problems with clutch slip with ATF and experimented with various oils finally settling on Comma gear oil EP80W-90 GL-4 which gave the best performance and lowest noise (straight engine oil worked but made the gearbox noisy). Two years and 1000 hours later it's still fine.

Cable losses would far outweigh any gain achieved by locating the antennas for and aft.

Sure.

As I said in my earlier post, provided you have an external antenna of some kind congestion is likely to be the limiting factor these days. The OPs advice was good at the time but cell coverage is much better now.

I doubt you get 5G 'almost everywhere'

My experience fwiw using a draytek LTE 3/4G router on the three network. I threw my TV aerial away and I stream TV on an unlimited data contact currently £21/m. I rarely have so little bandwidth that I can't stream HDTV. HOWEVER, bandwidth can be limited by congestion on the cell mast that you're connected to, confirmed by Draytek tech support. I can often get greater bandwidth by forcing the router to (the less congested) 3G network. Currently in the middle of Banbury with 'excellent' signal strength and less than 1Mbps bandwidth, my first failure in two months!

All clear now

The navigation is current closed due to a substancial fallen tree across the navigation under Milby bridge just north of Milby lock.

The navigation is current closed due to a substancial fallen tree across the navigation under Milby bridge just north of Milby lock.

I used protectacote cream, does stain a bit though.

Not sure if this is similar to anything already suggested but I've just replaced all the windows on my nb and sealed them with butyl glazing tape, easy to use and looks very like what was originally used by the boat builder. Re silicon, for reasons best known to them they also ran a bead of silicon around the window edge, this has subsequent caused rusting after 6 years under the silicon possibly due to trapped acetic acid during the cure.

Thanks for the quick response, I actually did that last time and it did help. However I feel I'm putting more and more effort in for less and less pumping!

I realise this thread is a bit old but does anyone know if you can get replacement plunger seals for the seaflo pump? Mines reluctant to pump after 5 years ☹️

There seems to be some conflicting information/confusion of terms. Firstly a lead acid battery will self limit its charge to something close the amount of charge used, e.g. if you've used 80Ah then after a short while the charge current will be 80A or thereabouts. Secondly the reason most batteries die is sulphation which is due to inadequate charging, so better to 'abuse' your batteries with high charge rate than leave them not fully charged. Thirdly alternators weren't designed to charge massive banks of domestic batteries, they were designed for cars to replace the tiny amount of charge used to start an engine and then provide power to run everything electrical thereafter, without help it will struggle to fully charge a well used domestic bank in a reasonable time. That's where the A to B device helps by boosting the 13.8v (more likely 12.5 under load) to around 14.5 to charge the batteries in a shorter time. When calculating max charge a rough rule of thumb is thus: Alternator rated current x 0.8 If using an A to B giving a 20% voltage boost including losses. x 0.7 Unless you have seriously large cables joining all this up x 0.95 for cable losses Putting all that together you have a max available current of about 55% of the rated alternator output, subtract your electrical load from this and there what's left to charge the batteries. As regards diagnosing your particular problem I recommend investing in a cheap DC clamp ammeter for about £30 that you will use time and time again and is the best way to find this and similar faults. Measuring Ah in and Ah out is a really good way of assessing battery state as a lead acid battery is close to 100% efficient if you measure this way unless overcharged, it is not 100% efficient if you measure Wh in/out.

I am currently on the Lancaster heading for the Llangollen and would be happy to demo for you if you're in the area.

A bit late to post but mine does exactly the same, can be sat lightly loaded so cool but when you turn off the last device the fans kick in for about 5 minutes. My unit is 5 years old and identical to the OP's Edit: mine doesn't beep though.

Have you looked at the website dedicated to this project? http://boatmon.theitboat.co.uk

Hi, Thanks for your interest. Early versions of BoatMON did indeed have SMS but in reality most people have email enabled smart devices so it was deemed irrelevant as email is a far more flexible medium not restricted to mobile phones. GPS is a work in progress at the moment and i am hoping to release something later in the year. The software has evolved over the last two years largely based on feedback from users' wish lists and my own experiences, if there is some killer feature you want suggest it, if it has merit then it will be included in future updates that you can download. Brian.

Thanks Paul, the only mark-up language I've used before is ironically called Markdown. Does your version of BBCode support most HTML tags translated to square brackets then?

Glad to amuse. Markup languages are not universal and I don't know which markup language is used here.

Thank you all, my marshmallow tablet doesn't seem to display the font dialogue, is there a howto anywhere for the mark-up language?

Transformer losses are basically two fold, hysteresis losses which constant and I2R* losses which are load dependant. I am trying to get a definitive answer for the transformer that I cited but 0.5% hysteresis losses is a reasonable 'guess' for the no-load loss, Obviously the other losses square with load rising to about 3% at full load (so 0.75% at 50% load [1.75KVA]). Based on the 0.5% and 15p/KWh that equates to an annual cost of £23/annum for the no load losses and somewhat less for the I2R losses as you probably only average a few hundred watts of load, so maybe £30-35 all in. * I2R = I squared R (as the forum doesn't seem to support superscripted characters) Update: Manufacturers state no load hysteresis loss as 0.6% on the transformer I cited.

I'd like to see the evidence for that statement. That equates to 75VA which would produce significant heating. And 98.5% of statistics are made up.

Either way it will trip. Yes with a GI one would expect an instantaneous trip.

I would expect that electricity supplies outdoor in the presence of water would have an RCCD. Which would protect your scenario. I didn't intend to be facetious, i was implying that you connect your IT the same as you would anything else. Whatever scenario you choose there are drawbacks, the intention is to minimise risk and maximise benefit. I appreciate no one solution is a universal panacea you choose your own solution based on an informed decision.