frangar

I would only use heldtitei if you didn't need to get it apart without a fight.....it's done a good job on the transfer case cover plate on my landie but I know it's going to be a bitch to remove....not sure I would use it on anything I wanted to get apart without using a hammer and pry bar!. I have some rocol sealant which seems better if you need to seal two good surfaces...it's white and non hardening...will put the name up when I find the tin! I used it to seal the oil pipes on my JP oil tank and it seems to have worked well. Cheers Gareth

I would suggest cork gasket material....you will need a punch kit for the stud holes....makes life a lot easier! Don't use any instant gasket goo on the side doors...you want to get them on and off with some ease. You can get the cork...Google is ur friend....just make sure the sheet is big enough...keep the middle bit...you will find other gaskets that need making! I would also think about taking the oil strainer out of the sump....it's a bit of a fiddle and you will need a 3/4" - 7/8" whit open ended spanner....you will need the crank in the right position and then it's a slow "flat at a time" job....but it means you can clean the strainer and the sump fully. I take it you don't have a separate oil tank btw? Oh and it's quite normal not to have an air filter! Cheers Gareth

Personally I remove the rocker covers then top up to just below the push rod tubes with SAE 20, you also need to put some onto the cups on the end of the push rods where they meet the rockers. I usually do this once a week when we are boating. Normal multipurpose grease is fine in the cups….I have grease nipples on mine and give these a couple of squirts at the same time as topping the oil up. If you do it when the rocker covers are off you can check if the grease is going down the rocker shafts. I would also invest in a good set of Whitworth combination spanners…you may also need some AF spanners if the fixings have been replaced at some point……Whit sockets are worth it too!….oh and when doing oil changes especially the first couple i would take the large side door off and give the sump a good mop out…..you may need to be prepared to replace the gasket on the door tho…and you will have to make one!….all part of the fun of vintage engines….I also take my oil strainer out of the sump and clean it but once you get the side door off you can see what you have….do you have a separate oil filter? Cheers Gareth

Do you have a copy of the engine manual.... If not do a search on here as there was a link to a downloadable copy. There are some old threads about daily maintenance too. Basically keep the top end oiled and greased. Oil changes are roughly 450 hrs for the dry sump version but I'm guessing yours is a converted stationary one so is possibly less. Use something like Morris golden film sae 20 or 30. Try to use the compression changeover valves regularly...I always start on high comp then run on low but others only run on low on rivers etc. Feel free to ask other questions! I love my JP! Cheers Gareth

For what it's worth after a wander up to foxton today the only poles which have the blue 14 day tiles are the ones in the "7 day" area.....there aren't any on the poles in the "2 day" area.....this is on the harboro arm...not sure about up on the summit level. There were a couple of boats moored in both the above areas....however just outside were all the same boats that were there about 3 weeks ago but of course they were continuously cruising so must have used gps to make sure after moving they moored back pointing the same way in exactly the same place in exactly the same order.....strange that! Cheers Gareth

Well if you feel happy on a lilo going through a tunnel while a steel narrowboat with an inexperienced crew is cannoning off the walls then please don't complain when you get killed!....I really would have thought it was common sense but there again that's not always in use on here let alone the cut. Cheers Gareth

As Tony has said the pilot is on all the time, this does seem to keep the boiler up to temperature tho without the main burner cutting in when the circulation pump is off. So I'm not sure if turning the boiler completely off if you use it a couple of times a day would save much gas....I set the boiler dial to about 4 1/2 which seems to be plenty. If you use the 3010 then you need to make sure you have a stainless steel calorifier as using a copper one can lead to internal corrosion within the Alde 3010...the 2928 can use either. Cheers Gareth

Alde's are also very low on electricity consumption compared to diesel heating systems which means you don't need to run your engine to keep batteries topped up. They also don't need expensive parts like air motors replaced regularly. You need to look at the overall cost of ownership before condemning them! I wouldn't use mine as a sole form of heating but to supplement the solid fuel stove and for providing hot water I reckon they take some beating. Cheers Gareth

Well we used 8mm cable for all the water pumps in our new builds!.....what size cable do you think is used now Keith? Cheers Gareth

If the gasket has been blowing for a bit then that won't cure it....and if it's a proper marine JP you will have to take the expansion box & exhaust manifold off to get the rear cylinder rocker shaft out to check the nuts round the push rod tubes....by the time that's all off and out it's not much more work to get the heads off. Cheers Gareth

If you want it to stop then I'm afraid your correct!...heads off....skimmed..new gaskets and perhaps some wellseal jointing compound. Might also be worth checking the liners are raised from the block the correct amount. Don't forget to check the bump clearances when putting it back together.....you may need shims as well as head gaskets. Done this on my JP2... Feel free to ask more questions! Cheers Gareth

Wet vac on the lowest point. You may need to use your imagination to join the vac to the pipe work...... Cheers Gareth

Thats one of the reasons I hated school....!! I have often been told i was "born old".....something of which I'm quite proud! Cheers Gareth

Don't mind dogs (or cats!) in a pub...food or not...children however should be banned outright...and I don't mean just in pubs!! Cheers Gareth

I'm sitting on my hands.....there are some v tempting toys there..... Cheers Gareth

Seconded.....hope you can pass on that we are thinking of her. She is a remarkable lady. Cheers Gareth

SAE20 is what lister recommend for JP's in a temperate climate.....other (lesser!!) engines may require other grades. Older engines such as the JP don't have oil filters like modern engines so a low detergent oil lets any debris fall into the sump so they can be cleaned out at the next oil change. Just because oil is the same viscosity doesn't mean it will be suitable. Cheers Gareth

Seconded for golden film SAE 20. Available direct from Morris's. I get mine from my local agricultural wholesaler cheaper than buying direct though! Cheers Gareth

We have a machine mart stainless bodied one that I haven't killed yet! Seems to work well. If you register for the email club then you get "vat off" days a few times a year which is a handy saving Cheers Gareth

I have had a bottle which leaked well round the valve stem itself... Was fine when the valve was shut but as soon as it was opened it hissed out. Was swapped without argument tho. I now always squirt a bit of LDF about when changing bottles just to be safe. Cheers Gareth

I think you are!....perhaps I could have phrased it better.....what I meant to say was that we could read both sides of how things are now and make our own minds up Yes I did read it.Well I didnt think it was any worse than what has been said/implied about other companies on here....and to my mind its good to have criticism....I didnt see anything that wasnt possibly true....In all arguments things can be subjective....its best to be able to make your own mind up. Cheers Gareth