davey b

Google is your friend... just try forklift or truck batteries. Your issue might be the size and shape you want but these are possible options (they are simply the first image linked by google, not a recommendation): http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/LUCAS-LP625-Type-625-12V-200ah-HEAVY-DUTY-Battery-Truck-Lorry-Boat/160897022875?_trksid=p2054897.c100204.m3164&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20140407115239%26meid%3Dd27347abcc274d4dba5e3e26c9f97fd5%26pid%3D100204%26prg%3D20140407115239%26rk%3D11%26rkt%3D30%26sd%3D251621396523

Many years ago when inyl lettering was new we had a van come back in new livery with 'Enviromental Services' emblazoned down the side. It took the new paint off changing it. Apocryphal may be:.. Scouser to the Staff Sergeant in the newly painted Liverpool Detachment, 521 EOD Company, 11 Ordnance Battalion RAOC van at the lights near Daisbrook Barracks: "You guys in Bomb Disposal must be the cream of the crop..." Brad: " We like to think so" Scouser: "It must take real brains to safely deal with all those bombs..." Brad: "We train hard and pick the best..." Scouser: "So you'd say you were one of the brighter squaddies?" Brad: "I like to think so..." Scouser: "Well if you're top of the tree, finest, brightest and best the Army has, why does your van say 'Bomb Dipsosal' on it?" Brad got out to check and it did! Fortunately on magnetic strips so off they came!

Thanks Athy!!! It is at Her Majesty's pleasure but on a more positive note! Quick replies as always, thank you... The idea of selling it is a close second though to make it saleable may require too much work/money in the time I have. I would definitely rather keep it. My plan is exactly as you suggest Magnetman, a marina not paying London and commute prices but whether in or out of the water is a fair consideration (other good ideas too...). Getting someone to look after it either living or close by to visit has insurance implications but not insurmountable. I'll give Debdale and Willowbridge a call but Debdale is still 1600 a year... any others?

Evening, I'm possibly looking at a need to store my boat long term whilst I'm working away. A quick look at Debdale Wharf's website gives a good idea of prices and facilities that may be appropriate but I was wondering if anyone has any alternative locations or experiences that I could draw upon. I think it would be best lifted out, but I'm willing to take opinions. It'll be for over 2 years so too long to sit in Apsley Lock at 4 grand+ a year without any use or visits! The boat is a fairly heavy 70 foot tug style trad if it makes any difference and I'm expecting to have to drain it and change my batteries... All costs to add! Thanks...

The CRT confusion is caused by the member of the crew wearing a CRT RSPB flourescent jacket. He's just come through Copper Mill Lock and seems a pleasant enough chap though he is battling a boat that's in appalling mechanical condition. The list of issues he's had was not a short one. I mentioned the comments on here and he said he was following notices on the locks to leave the sluices open, though whem I pointed out this was on the southern flights he did look a little abashed. His idle speed is the problem in the passing boats speed. Single manning and not moving at night from today so some of you can tie up better for tomorrow!

It's definitely chipboard. OSB is a totally different material as you suggest but also comes in different grades.

Where did you get that info Neil? I have not seen those ventilation figures before.

BR, It was the prev owner who fitted it used with chipboard. To be fair, he did use the 25mm outdoor building grade stuff (with the green preservative soak) and he area lifted shows no concerns at all. He also had some other odd ideas... Other than using ply as an alternative for the chipboard, any suggestions? Kev, thanks, I'm looking at ways to distribute the warm air down but have noticed a significant 'sink' effect of colder air towards the base and there is a convective draft noticeable - probably what has kept the bilge so dry! I was considering underfloor heating as part of this and would definitely want some insulation beneath that.

Interesting comment about the inside of the base plate, I've just lifted the floor in the bathroom (rear-most before the engine room) and apart from a small patch by the shower waste there was no rust at all; the primer used to paint the interior of the boat has held up well in 12 years. If the floor hadn't been painted I wonder if it would have faired as well. When it was out for blacking we decided against due to access though it seemed clean enough. (I'd bought the paint as well...)

That's true Alan, the air temp may be as low as -10 or worse but as long as the water under the surface sheet of ice then it will be above freezing point. How did the damp issues get sorted after your leak?

I think this has been discussed before but a quick search did not reveal a thread... I have a plan to reduce the heat soak from the base plate, which, as I have to take up the floor to rearrange the ballast, I thought I would do by laying Cellotex or Kingspan type stuff in the void below the floor. I have a 75mm void beneath the floor which is made up of 25mm chipboard sheet topped with 1/2" hardwood. My concerns are that filling that void will restrict any air/water flow in the event of water entering the bilge (however it may) and then go stale because it can't dry. As the gap will be completely filled by the insulation I don't believe condensation will be a issue. Any advice or opinion? Is it even worth it? As an aside I have a steel keelson which I was surprised to see on a modern 70' boat, maybe because of the length? Ta Dave

Old carpet... cheap, easy, obtainable and eco friendly if it's wool. Use a small bit for one car or treat the whole area if you have enough.

I think people are missing the point about this programme. It is about design and inspiration, not about marine engineering. Boats always take more money than one expects, people will always make mistakes with their purchase of a first boat to some extent and this couple appear to have a nice boat in the end. George is a bit disingenuous with his 'do all this for so little' attitude but he is not a practical bloke - he is a dreamer/designer. I would like to see more of his mate Will as he actually seems to have an idea of what he is doing...

I thought the article quite balanced (especially for The Guardian); the points raised are the usual ones and both/all sides have fair set of arguments for and against their position. CRT came out of it more positively than the councillor, that is certain. I don't have any answers but (despite my usual anti-bin digging scrounger types attitude) I actually believe there are some problems that need solving to which the canals provide some answers whilst respecting (some) of the local views. But there are issues where no-one is making any friends which will only result in restrictions for all - which is the worst option possible (collective punishment by the officer classes has always been a favourite of mine!). A campaign of awareness by CRT may be of use but some will see it as a waste of resources that could be spent on maintenance, etc, but it's a balance of needing spent money to avert a future spend that is forced upon them against spending already programmed. As I said, I have few answers...

Have a look at folding (as in fold up rather than collapsible) sinks as used in ships and sleepers of the past. Google images of Folding Sinks shows similar options to sink in a drawer... there is even a fold down toilet under sink unit pictured.

Welcome in, Julie. No hard and fast answer to your question as it will depend on the span/area of the cover, the bracing, the depth of the support runners, etc The absolute minimum is going to be 3.5mm (1/8in) with a framed edge and bracing but that will flex and resonate unless very well made. Going for anything more than 6mm (1/4in) braced, etc, will start getting heavy. Aluminium is not very happy being constantly flexed either. Thin metal manhole covers are the sort of design to look at (fabricated not cast) but are usually steel.

Understood; my point was rather more towards that being a problem (or not) on most designs. My integral design has a filler pipe and vent pipe too. The tank on mine is only 24 inches deep up from the base plate and the filler is on the deck. I'm not convinced it would make a difference whether I have a liner or not.

Yes, Dan; 5 litres - there is always the car in its 21st year! Blackrose, surely that would depend on the design of the filler and vent rather than the design of tank. I appreciate the volume being difficult to freeze completely is used to good effect in all these tanks but my suggestion of the flexible liner was more aimed at the lower maintenance of the interior than thermal separation. Changing the shape and size may fall into the 'far too difficult' tray

I started a job I've been putting off for ages today - cleaning out the water tank. I lifted the access plate expecting the worst (I've not been in there in 3 years of ownership...) but was surprised to find a good solid coat of blacking and nothing really of note. This is, of course, after ordering £70 worth of Vactan to do the job! So a measure of Milton will do for now. As I expected, the tank goes almost all the way to the nose and is full width and half height giving a capacity of (very) approximately 400 gallons. I was very surprised to find it about half full still. I haven't filled up since May and clearly not using it much, it has lasted too well. I will be moving aboard at some point so the point of this ramble is this: Is 400 gals a sensible size tank or can I realistically recover some storage space. My idea was a new bulkhead and a flexible liner tank of about 200 gals. Incidentally, that amount of water weighs nearly 2 tons so has a significant effect on ballast and handling as it is right at the nose. It has no baffles either so the slosh effect may be reduceable too

Red diesel and gasoil are similar at 32-35sec viscosity. Kerosene/paraffin is 28sec viscosity. It is only the taxation that varies as to whether it is heating oil. If you find it on pump (as suggested at Ludgershall) it will be Tractor Vaporising Oil and taxed for propulsion but basically kero. We used to have two grades of - A & B. The A was for use in Tilley lamps and tent heaters as was lower or less toxic in emmissions; the B was for cookers and gene use. The A was downgraded to B after a set period or when instructed by the Pet Ops, and I thought it was to do with water content... I was told 1000 litres min delivery so bought a burner capable of 32/35sec oil but will still burn 28. It has a fuel heater to assist the vaporisation.

If your expansion chamber is from 1979, I'd definitely change it! Mine was only 10 years old when I took it out and I was horrified by the appearance of the water that came out.