jonathanA

I'm surprised it's taken them this long ... usually 2 weeks of no rain is enough.... Is Barrowford still on reduced capacity? We got so fed up of the will they /won't they close Wigan to skipton that we upped sticks and moved off. I see the canal businesses are doing the same which does not bode well for the future...

Sorry Ronaldo this may have been the case in the past, but is simply not the case with modern blade fuses, which are rated to carry the rated current continuously. Check the data sheets....

I've used left over candle wax from the smelly candles SWMBO burns all over the place mixed with sawdust/chainsaw chippings. You do need quite a lot of wax to bind the wood chippings. They do make great firelighters. The fluff from tumble dryers mixed with candlevwax is also a great firelighter.

With what you have i'd say that's as good as you can get. In terms of the switch I'd say it depends on where you want it physically, close to your panel or close to the fridge. You will struggle to get 10mm cable onto one of those switches...

To be fair I'd forgotten most suppliers start at 30A for midi or strip fuses. Remember the fuse is to protect the cable so 30A on 10mm2 will be fine anyway. Bit in my bold. No you want a fuse at the battery or busbar end to protect the cable. You could splice to a smaller cable at the fridge end and put a 15a fuse to protect the fridge as well i suppose. Might be worth trying it from your existing panel with 10mm2 to the fridge and see if it works. The startup current is high but only for a very short time, the running current Is much lower. I think more in the 4 or 5 amp region. Seem to think at lot of the 12v fridge compressors are about 45 watt. Someone will correct me if I'm talking bollox.

I've seen worse, much worse.. 😀 Looks like it could be 10mm2 to the bus bars. I think the issue (for me) would be the fuses are likely to be glass fuses and I think they could overheat. Cant remember what the rating of those switches is, possibly 15A so OK just... I think I'd agree with Alan and suggest bypassing the panel. Personally I would not use a blade type fuse and would go for a "midi" fuse be much easier to connect your 6 or 10mm2 cables to that. If you do use your existing panel then use one of the switches at the bottom closest to the incoming cable. You won't get a 10mm2 cable into any spade connector so would need to splice a short length of 6mm2 onto it to connect to the switch blade terminal.

And when your moving the stove don't lift using the top plate as that tends to break the lugs off... DAMHIK... I had a back plate with a broken lug and similar damage to the flue hole. I found a new one for about 90 quid via t'interweb Much better then a new stove at the price they are....

Let's hope it was a one off and the perpetrators don't return....

We've Been going for about 15 years, (cept for covid) originally buying a 3 day ticket and staying locally, but after the first year or two just Saturday day visit. Agree its great when looking for a new boat, but less and less other boating stuff to actually buy or even look at. We're giving it a miss this year.....

The victron may have a equalisation charge option. (Basically ups the voltage for a bit) worth trying that if you can find it in the victron app Otherwise I would cycle the charger a few times by powering it off or switching the charge function on/off

Thanks for the explanation Manxcat. It was just a bit hard to visualise 😀. I'm sure your to do list is long and probably still getting longer....

Personally I would put it in some plastic mini trunking for neatness. Bit hard to understand where it is from the pic? What's the other side of the gland ? If it's going to be covered up or behind something I'd say its fine.

I've got a swivel chair and a torch.... just need a 12 bore....

120 vs 110 Ah will make no discernible difference and won't require any change to your alternator, assuming it's coping with your 110 ones. Personally I just buy on price, you should be able to find some no name chinky cheap batts in the 100 to 120 Ah range for around 85 quid delivered on ebay. You can of course buy more nunax or other ones and look after them and they may last longer. You pays your money.... ETA Tony makes a good point about securing them, you should also check the terminal layout and physical dimensions of the new ones, to make sure your existing leads will reach and they will fit in your battery box or wherever they are.

I'll happily send a few moles from my garden to help the little blighter out.....

Yes. None that I've ever seen. I guess you could note that the Boat safety scheme only has advisories against mains AC checks and you can be fairly sure if boaters were being electrocuted they would not be hesitating to extend their remit. Which rather suggests its not a big issue. Last time I checked ISTR the IET/BS regs required annual inspections of marinas (and caravan parks). Of course some smaller marinas/operators may be unaware or ignoring these requirements.

Well they don't need to, it's very simple to test a GI with status indicators using a 9v battery across the GI. One Led lights with battery in each direction - all good Certainly safeshore are clear in their instructions and even supply a 9v battery connector.... can't comment on other brands. So I'd say it's more likely that 99% of boaters with a safeshore GI know how to test theirs. I will repeat we are talking overcurrent faults - the ones with a big blue flash in 99% instances not simple RCD earth trips due to water in the connector or other earth leakage faults to echo your comments 99% of boaters will be familiar with those they are bound to have had a bollard RCD trip somewhere sometime....

THE important point about GIs is that following any OVERCURRENT event then it's imperative they are checked to ensure the diodes are OK. To my point its very easy and quick to check on GIs with status indicators.

I have a safe shore Gi with indicators. I would recommend safeshore as they are UK based and you can speak to them. ( I found them very helpful). They do one that fits in the lead in a similar manner. I'm slightly suspicious of the one in the OP as it doesn't look very substantial. Whatever one you buy make sure it has status indicators as 1. this makes it easy to see if there is a fault 2. Makes it easy to test the GI from time to time. 3. They have a higher conduction voltage usually and this gives a greater degree of protection from galvanic currents. They are not difficult to fit onboard, but if you are not confident with mains wiring then the in line ones are a good option.

Hmm... as someone who pm'd the original op with some information and I'm sure like a lot of folks wanted to genuinely help, I find this some what disappointing and wonder if the recent poster is the op at all....? its not that hard to recover access to an account on here. Sadly this sort of thing may impact future calls for help with people reluctant to get involved...

Bloody hell 220 dollars for a just a bit too late light........ as I call ours. When it works... They are prone to err "sticking" and cleaning them is not nice....

Well since there is no mention of this, it's not a problem.... although I can check my anodes if the water is clear enough....

I've just renewed with gjw and there is absolutely nothing about anodes,age, surveys.. its a very short and clear policy doc. The only thing mine says is something about the insured or a competent person being on board when underway....

Most of the ones I've seen have been fitted in the bulkhead usually under a step If you think about it, the purpose of extinguishers on canal boats is to allow you to escape not "fight" the fire. If your rcd inspector thinks deck mounted are the way to go, I think I'd be parting company with him, but I guess if he's OK about other stuff it might be better the devil you know.....