bizzard

Another basic test for lack of compression on any 'cylinder-cylinders' is to keep the engine stop pulled out or disconnected so no fuel is delivered and crank the engine over on the starter. The compressions if equal should sound regular like; grur-rur- rur-rur-rur-rur- rur- rur-rur and so on. If any compressions are not good the sound will not be regular but will sound something like grur-rur-wee-rur-rur-rur-wee-rur-rur-rur-wee-rur and so on or different combinations depending on which cylinders compressions are weak as the engine momentarily speeds up as it it passes the weak compression. If the engine spins around faster without much resistance at all like gru-ru-ru-ru-ru-ru-ru or worse still even faster wee-ee-ee-ee-ee-ee-ee-ee-ee and so on, not much compression at all on all cylinders. All done with a good charged up battery. That is usually my first basic check for low compression before delving further. Same for petrol engines with ignition turned off. To add to that, whilst cranking blow by's through either air intake or exhaust may be heard as an irregular shuuk, shuuk, shuuk which indicate inlet or exhaust valves not seating properly, either through worn or burnt out seats or too tight adjustment. Donkeys years ago Brown Brothers the garage equipment company made a kit that checked for compression leaks which comprised of an air hose and adapter to screw into each spark plug hole. You screwed the hose into a cylinder spark plug hole with the other end connected to and air compressor receiver. Turn the engine around until the cylinder to be checked had its piston up with both valves fully shut and turned the air on. If air hissed from the air intake or exhaust pipe the valves were not seating or if excessive air was blasting out of the oil filler, breather or blew the dipstick sky high, pistons or rings in trouble.

Or tomarrow.

If there are, they should be audible. Yes the mastic tube spout plugs will key itself softly into the hole without enlarging it.

Where do these Errant rivet heads hang out, Pop rivet festivals ?

By tying tennis rackets to your feet small holes in the ground will be bridged and you won't even know you've trodden on one. Reccommended for those who wander about glued to an Android tablet telephone thing doin Facebook and not looking where they're going.

I don't think you can get the Umbrella type anymore, the ones like the crews of WW2 Sunderland flying boats used to plug bullet holes in the hull after they'd been shot up. The mushroom type tubeless tyre puncture repair patches are a possibility though.

Round tapered plugs can be made or are made automatically when you forget to cap of the tapered plastic spout on tubes of mastic. Silicon, Marineflex ect and it cures and sets in the spout. This can be gently weedled out ''probed and pushed out from the small end'', and your left with a beautiful universal, rubbery, flexible tapered plug ideal for plugging a variety of sized holes within its capacity. So don't chuck away clogged up mastic tube spouts, save them just in case.

Tha'ts because your batteries were probably well charged to start with. If they were very low on charge it would be struggling in the 12.9, 13.0 v area and eventully rise because it'll only be charging at about a 3rd or half its full capacity because of the low speed even with the engine revving at 1500, 2000 rpm which would be way too high for a comfortable cruising speed.

A favorite place for those boilers to leak is at the water inlet and outlet pipe stubs which can corrode away under the connection fitting.

I'd say definitely there for extra directional stability being a shortish boat without a more conventional tapered swim. Most aircraft have their rudders pivoting on a large fixed tail fin for a similar reason. On some fighter planes the whole tail fin pivots for the rudder for fast reaction maneuvering power at high speed. Retain the fin. A shark would zig-zag and Victory Roll uncontrollably without one. It will also help to kill the oversensitiveness of steering with an outboard motor which can be uncomfortable.

Apart from the hole in the wall we still don't know if there's any solid, immovable structure below where a large diameter pulley will be fitted that will prevent it being fitted. I've known boats which had which prevented their fitting without really serious surgery. Lady Trish has not responded to my suggestion of checking down there and measuring ALL around to make sure there's adequate clearance before going ahead with it.

To fit a large pulley the hole in the wall would need enlarging to about 12'' diameter, which would also mean demolishing part of that wall to the right of the camshaft.

That is the end of the camshaft poking through the wall. The pulley slides onto the camshaft over the key ''The narrow slither of square topped metal you can see on the camshaft end in your pic''. The pulley is then secured by a 5/16'' UNF pinch set or grub screw to stop is sliding back and forth.

As I mentioned earlier, just slacken off each hose clip, pull back the hose enough to measure with a simple caliper or vernier the diameter of the pipes they go onto which will be the inside diameter of the new hoses you need, Ideally hoses with a very slightly less inside diameter than the diameter of the pipe stubs they fit onto. It might be worth getting a new thermostat and gasket too, because that short black hose connecting the manifold heat exchanger to the thermostat housing probably can't be replaced without removing the thermostat housing.

First of all check and double check that there are no roof beams in the way. To get the two flue holes ''ceiling and roof'' perfectly in line with each other pilot drill upwards from inside, straight up through the ceiling and roof as vertically as you can hold the drill with say a 6mm bit. The roof hole is then your centre guide for arbor drill bit of a hole cutter or can be used as the centre using a compass or string and pencil to draw the hole circle. If using a jig saw drill small holes about 1/2'' apart all around the periphery. Running round with a jigsaw without is very risky and you will almost certainly keep running out and probably snap blades, the thicker the steel roof the worse the risk. The pilot hole in the ceiling can again be enlarged simarlily to the roof hole by drawing compass circle and jig sawing. Both holes will then be in line with each other. If cutting the ceilings hole with a large hole cutter do this first of all by using the roof pilot hole as pilot for the arbor drill.

Slacken off the old ones a bit and pull em back a touch so that you can measure with a caliper or vernier the pipe fittings they push on to. Ideally hoses with an I/D size slightly below that of the pipes O/D.

River Stort up 8 thou.

Have you got that Lady Trish?

If the holes in the wall are not big enough to allow the engine to be lifted up enough and back to clear its mounting studs a good and easy wheeze to enlarge the top arc of them is to adopt the burning method. Bend to an almost L shape say the the end of a poker and put it in the fire until red hot and then riddle the end around inside the tops of those holes to knaw out and burn them bigger. The L bit only needs to be as long as the thickness of the bulkhead. A cup of water on standby to dowse any flaming paint. This was my prefered method of boring holes in wood when I was a kid, ''because I had no drill and it was more dramatic and the buzzing noise and smoke attracted an audience'', mainly for the hole in the plank of box carts for the front steering pivot.