bizzard

That's the same as mine that failed after forty years. An old design that most boats used years ago. I still have one to switch in another cabin battery if needed.

Even a 6w bulb will get quite hot, secure it away from anything flammable like woodwork. Possibly not but an alternator that's been in use for sometime probably will excite with a lot of revs.

There are two types of bulb and holder. The ordinary car type single pole using the holders body to complete the circuit so if installing into a metal switchboard might cause problems. Ideally a twin pole holder and bulb which will be isolated in a metal switchboard, these are available at auto electrical and commercial motor factors for use on GRP, wooden bodied things or like GRP bodied cars ect which don't have metal bodies or wings to complete the circuit.

You would but the switching contacts are confined in a small space so I suppose the contact wipe can heat up and warp over time and so still make contact when turned off. My switch that failed was an ancient small Lucas type with the small black knob, can't grumble it was about 40 years old. I've never had any trouble with the type you've ordered as long as you don't load it to exceed it's rating. I bought the same type as the one you've ordered from the big stores called ''Range'' for about £6, works lovely.

It does happen from time to time. In fact, my own services isolator switch did this a couple of years ago. I discovered it when I was about to do a lighting alteration

The older Surflow Aquaking pumps with the square pressure switch attached on the back seem much more reliable than the later streamlined type with the switch built in flush.

I had a Japanese alternator on my engine for about 12 years, which was very good, although I had to rev a bit to excite it. However, that alternator packed in a few weeks ago. I had a good reconditioned uprated old Lucas ACR ( Mini type) alternator in stock so fitted that. I had to rev the engine considerably to excite it, so I changed the warning light bulb and holder which was one of those tiny Pea bulbs of about 2w for a larger 6w vehicle side light bulb and holder. It now excites immediately, almost before I've let go the start key. This is with a split charge relay. The engine is a Liste

White stuff ? A chimney hat will prevent pigeons using your chimney as a lavatory.

Ordinary bristle flue brushes only really shift loose soot from the flue pipe. To shift the caked on slag I lash a wire brush to a stick and give it a good hard scrub,up down and all around. I think you'll be surprised at how much slag, some curved that breaks away. Do it cold. You can get steel bristle flue brushes.

I said a bigger bulb about 49 posts ago, or was it on the other thread of Chubby's.

but I was only just sayin. Indignant of Stortford. Sent from my state of the art, cutting edge, pecker beak fly by wire-less device.

Don't fly off the handle.

I certainly wouldn't fork out a forking big sum for ''second hand'' forking fork lift batteries, fork that!!

Sounds like the pumps pressure switch not working. You can remove pump and dismantle the switch. It might just be the little diaphram or hole clogged up with muck. Or renew the switch.

Clad the outside of it with steel sheet.

Are the two wires on the circ pump on their correct terminals. The pump will run in reverse if their wrong.

Could that relay once have been a relay for the starter motor solenoid, (very common) to protect a not man enough key or start switch button, and been bypassed. If so it would need reinstating in case the start key-button burns out.

And Jumping around cross legged with an overflowing bog.