Eberspacher 5 DW

[Bobbybass]

Hi all..

Just acquired a  5kw Eberspacher that is the water heating type. Rigged it in my workshop...and was very happy with how it ran. I have the main heater with just a 3 way connection...positive.....negative (25amp fuse) and a switch  (3 amp fuse)

It has a short exhaust...with silencer...

Operating the switch..it goes through the proper start up...water pump....fuel pump.. ignition ..and then run. I guess I could arrange a passive thermostat in the switch circuit if I wished...

 

Can anyone tell me what I need to marinise this ?

Obviously a skin exhaust outlet...and loose my makeshift rubber fuel pipes and replace with copper.

I will lag the exhaust with proper lagging.

 

Do I need any special exhaust arrangements…?...

 

Can I just mount it on a suitable board......skin outlet point...copper fuel pipe...and that is it..?...or will I need any other items to pass the BSS ?

 

Thanks.

[Trento]

Just to add.

Take the input air from outside the boat via a skin fitting, don't take air direct from the engine bay.

 

[Bobbybass]

12 minutes ago, Trento said:

Just to add.

Take the input air from outside the boat via a skin fitting, don't take air direct from the engine bay.

 

Sounds good...thanks...will do

[Alan de Enfield]

32 minutes ago, Bobbybass said:

Can anyone tell me what I need to marinise this ?

Obviously a skin exhaust outlet...and loose my makeshift rubber fuel pipes and replace with copper.

I will lag the exhaust with proper lagging.

 

Do I need any special exhaust arrangements…?...

The standard (non-marine) exhaust is not 'gas-tight' as in a 'normal' automotive application the exhaust gases drop straight down below the vehicle - the same exhaust in a 'sealed' boat shell will mean the exhaust gases (and all the nasties in them) collect in your boat hull.

 

1) Not only do you need an exhaust skin fitting, but your DO need a gas tight exhaust system.

 

2) Non-marine Eberspachers are set up to work on different voltage parameters to 'marine' eberspachers - it may need the 'electronics' reprogramming.

[Bobbybass]

6 minutes ago, Alan de Enfield said:

 I havde runThe standard (non-marine) exhaust is not 'gas-tight' as in a 'normal' automotive application the exhaust gases drop straight down below the vehicle - the same exhaust in a 'sealed' boat shell will mean the exhaust gases (and all the nasties in them) collect in your boat hull.

 

1) Not only do you need an exhaust skin fitting, but your DO need a gas tight exhaust system.

 

2) Non-marine Eberspachers are set up to work on different voltage parameters to 'marine' eberspachers - it may need the 'electronics' reprogramming.

Thanks for that. I will look into the exhaust .

 

I have stripped the electronics and reduced it to a 3 wire connection.... negative.....permanent positive and a single switch....to positive via a 3 amp fuse. I have run it down and up quite a few times and it cycles quite nicely without a programmer. It goes through the correct fire up sequence ( water pump for a while...fuel pump...then ignition)... and shut down... cycling until its cool.

 

I tried it on my sit on lawnmower battery...seems quite happy . :0) 

 

Thanks for your advice...I'll look into the correct sealed exhaust... I wondered if that was the situation.

[Alan de Enfield]

3 hours ago, Bobbybass said:

I have stripped the electronics and reduced it to a 3 wire connection.... negative.....permanent positive and a single switch....to positive via a 3 amp fuse.

From memory its something to do with the voltage that it cuts out at - something like 10v for an automotive one and 11.5v for a marine version.

[WotEver]

11 hours ago, Alan de Enfield said:

From memory its something to do with the voltage that it cuts out at - something like 10v for an automotive one and 11.5v for a marine version.

So you’ll be okay as long as you use fat cables with good secure connections and never suffer flat batteries