Eberspacher noise / water pump not turning off

[steviebravo]

My Eberspacher heater makes a whistling noise. Any ideas for a fix please?

 

My water pump will not stop after turning off a tap or shower. If left on it drains the water tank. I need to turn it off completely at the control box now. Any ideas to fix this? Thanks ?

[WotEver]

Water pump - I'd have said pressure switch, but you say it keeps going until it's emptied the tank. This means you must have a leak and (probably) an extremely wet bilge.

 

Tony

[Martin Megson]

Re the water pump have you checked that the pressure relief valve on the calorifier isn't sticking open?

[WotEver]

The water has to be going somewhere...

[steviebravo]

Than you very much for your responses.

 

My neighbour did notice that water was expelled from the engine byway outlet - so that's where it went!

 

I've tried turning the pressure relief valve. It only turns anticlockwise. I didn't try to force it clockwise. It clicked but this has resolved the problem.

[Bobbybass]

My Eberspacher made a loud whistling noise for a while..just before the fan failed.

 

I pondered it for ages...then the whistle became a 'whirr''...then the 'whirr'...became silent !!

 

They do tend to whistle...some louder than others.

My neighbours said it sounded like a Jumbo jet taking off...

[NMEA]

My Eberspacher heater makes a whistling noise. Any ideas for a fix please?

 

You use the word "makes" rather than "has started to make" so is this a new to you boat or is the noise a recent development. They do make a bit of a noise (faults apart) whistling can as has been said be indicative of a failing air motor, the combustion air inlet is always a good place to look, check the duct and silencer are still connected and if one has not been fitted then fit one, along with the pump ticking, air induction noise is one of the most frequent annoyances but both can be easily cured with a little DIY work.

Edited March 4, 2016 by NMEA

[steviebravo]

I have tried resetting the PRV. The arrows on it indicate turning anti-clockwise, which I have done, but this has still not stopped the water going out of the outlet when the water pressure switch is on. Is there a method to reset the PRV?

 

The Eberspacher whistling has done so since I bought the boat a year ago. There is a silencer fitted. Where and what does the combustion air inlet look like please?

[NMEA]

Where and what does the combustion air inlet look like please?

Drop me a PM with the exact model and an email address and I will send you a PDF manual so you can easily identify all the parts.

[BruceinSanity]

I have tried resetting the PRV. The arrows on it indicate turning anti-clockwise, which I have done, but this has still not stopped the water going out of the outlet when the water pressure switch is on. Is there a method to reset the PRV?

Sounds like the PRV is stuffed, but worth checking what pressure the pump is cutting out at. If you have an accumulator, there's a Schrader valve, like a tyre valve, on top. Open a tap until the pump cuts in, close tap and wait for pump to stop. Use a pressure gauge to measure the pressure in the accumulator, quickly, before too much leaks out the PRV.

 

If it's higher than the PRV rating, you need to replace the pump pressure switch with an add on one. If it's below the PRV rating, replace the PRV.

[Tony Brooks]

I have tried resetting the PRV. The arrows on it indicate turning anti-clockwise, which I have done, but this has still not stopped the water going out of the outlet when the water pressure switch is on. Is there a method to reset the PRV?

 

snip

 

 

No, the twisting action just jumps the valve up and down so the flow form the pump stands a chance of dislodging any scale from the washer and seat. As Bruce says it sounds like the valve needs replacing but first check the pressure (as he described) the pump is cutting out at. If its higher than the PRV setting that may be marked on the cap it indicates the pump's pressure switch has a fault or needs adjusting. Otherwise a new PRV BUT NO HIGHER RATED THAN THE PRESENT ONE. Fitting a higher rated one may split the calorifier.

 

 

 

[steviebravo]

Thank you very much for your advice gents. I will replace the PRV.

[steviebravo]

BTW the PRV is not leaking. If it's faulty would it leak please?

[steviebravo]

Just another thing. Apart from the inconvenience of having to turn the water pressure on/off when I want to use a tap, are there any dangerous implications of the PRV not working for the moment til I get it replaced please?

[BruceinSanity]

Just another thing. Apart from the inconvenience of having to turn the water pressure on/off when I want to use a tap, are there any dangerous implications of the PRV not working for the moment til I get it replaced please?

If it was not working at all, yes, because excess pressure might split the calorifier as Tony says. But the suspicion is that it's working all too readily and dumping water when it shouldn't, hence the pump running all the time.

[steviebravo]

Phew, thanks!

[Tony Brooks]

If the PRV has a hose connected to it the "leak" when it opens could be anywhere. Into the rear bilge, through the hull or when I bought my boat into the gas tank. If you have found where the end of such a hose is and it is not leaking when the pump keeps running or if there is no hose and the PRV outlet is not leaking then the problem is elsewhere and if it drains the tank it must be a leak.

 

In other cases (not this one) where the pump turns off but very soon turns itself back on again with no taps open then once you are sure the PRV is not leaking and there are no plumbing leaks the cause is probably one or more valves failed in the water pump so pressure can leak back into the water tank.