Rust in radiators and pipes

[Horsehorn]

Hi,

 

Our radiators and pipes attached to the stove's back boiler have got loose rust stuck in them and I'm not quite sure how to get it out! Early spring last year they were making clanging noises when the stove was on and we were told by a plumber/mr fix it friend that the ancient header tank was rusty and so flakes had made it through the system. Question is, how do you flush the pipes and get it out?? A high pressure hose?

 

Thoughts much appreciated. Winters a-comin...

 

Lucy

[mango]

Hi,

 

Our radiators and pipes attached to the stove's back boiler have got loose rust stuck in them and I'm not quite sure how to get it out! Early spring last year they were making clanging noises when the stove was on and we were told by a plumber/mr fix it friend that the ancient header tank was rusty and so flakes had made it through the system. Question is, how do you flush the pipes and get it out?? A high pressure hose?

 

Thoughts much appreciated. Winters a-comin...

 

Lucy

When you have cleaned out the system I suggest you add a corrosion inhibitor. Fernox MB1 should do the job and will prevent future corrosion.

[bigste]

A boat's radiator system is much like a car radiator. Water gets pumped around the system and reheated. You wouldn't put neat water in the car and the boat is the same. Apart from an additive being an antifreeze it is also a rust inhibitor. Without the additive you'll get all sorts of problems eventually. Leaks, blockages, pump damage etc. Make sure you mix up enough additive before filling the system and give it a good flush first.

[Burgiesburnin]

Before flushing out the system, ensure that you know where the bleeding points are and that the screw or tap that controls the bleeding point isn't also rusted. If it is, it could easily malfunction leaving you without the ability to bleed the system.

[b0atman]

Use pre mixed antifreeze this protects the system with regards corrosion and protects the system from freezing.

Connect a pipe to take water out of boat and to suitable point for disposal not in the canal then flush through in reverse direction probably closing radiators first depending on plumbing.

[Horsehorn]

Thanks, very helpful. Do you think a normal hose pressure (connected to a tap) would be enough to flush the system through, or would a greater pressure be required?

 

Thanks

[lynalldisocvery]

Ive been using std glycol anti freeze mix 50/50 in my house central heating for the lat 20 years, copied my father in law who has been doing the same for over 40 years.

[b0atman]

Cropredy marina the water pressure would certainly do it .

Water tank 20 mins from empty to full BW services at marple 2 hours.

Monitor what comes out and lowish pressure may be enough.

good luck and hope it all works for you

[smileypete]

Bit more info on the system would be helpful. Is it pumped, thermosyphon, 15mm pipes, 28mm pipes, what sort of pump?

 

Also a bit of history, is the boat new to you, has it worked OK for you before or not?

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

[Horsehorn]

Hi Pete,

 

Mixture of 28mm copper and plastic pipes. There is a pump that pushes the water heated from the stove boiler along. This will be our fourth winter on the boat and had no problems hnt about half way through last winter, and have lazily left it sitting there over the summer months.

 

Does that help? Thanks!

[smileypete]

Surprised it's blocked, wonder if it could be an airlock in the pump, the outlet needs to point upward to help it to 'self bleed' air out. Also it may have some debris stuck in the impeller, worth a look there.

 

Bit hard to be specific without seeing the layout, but the name of the game is to flush as much debris out through the drain point etc, might be worth a try with plain water first, if that doesn't work try the chemicals later. Best to use a hose from a mains standpipe with good pressure.

 

Could flush water through from the expansion tank feed pipe, the pump connections, even take the bleed vent plugs out the rads if need be. Best fully open each rad in turn to maximise flow, can also give the rads a little tapping with a mallet to help shift stuff.

 

Will need to be careful to plug the header tank to stop it overflowing when flushing through from other points. Once all is done could try flushing from one pump connection out to the other to check the pump flow path is free.

 

Probably help to have a hozelock to threaded (BSP) adapter, plus a 1/2" BSP male to male coupler. A compression coupler with the nuts removed can be used as one. Help to have a few old towels to catch drips, if the threaded connections leak too much try a few turns of PTFE tape but don't let it get into the system as it may end up in the pump.

 

Once it seems OK maybe run with plain water to check before refilling with antifreeze. At least the weather isn't tooo cold at the moment

 

ETA: Sorry for the long monologue, but good luck with it!

 

cheers, Pete.

~smpt~

Edited October 9, 2014 by smileypete

[blackrose]

Thanks, very helpful. Do you think a normal hose pressure (connected to a tap) would be enough to flush the system through, or would a greater pressure be required?

 

Thanks

It will get some of the rust and other black crud out, but you'll never get it completely clean. As long as its not blocked that's fine.

 

I used to use noise/corrosion inhibitor in my system but now I just use the red antifreeze which is meant to keep it corrosion free for at least 5 years.