Odana Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Wow - lots of hard work. Very impressive. Is that roofing felt? If so... it turns to a soggy damp-trapping layer where you can never get it fully dry should you ever ever have condensation or a leak. I curse the person who laid it in our bilges and built over it - we have permanently damp steel and a musty smell and something that feels like a damp jacket on the baseplate. God knows what is happening to the steel. The recommendation from some others was plastic strips under the ballast to allow air flow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukdiggerboy Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 im not planning on the bilge getting even a bit damp its torch on felt 4mm thick welded to the floor pan new ballast ready to go in as needed the old stuff was smelly and damp and covered in oil????? we are spending a lot of time ensuring there is to be no ingress of water ? well as best we can and to think i was just going to give it a tidy up lol!!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Odana Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 Ah, the 'just' word - the emptier of many pockets! Nobody ever intends their bilge to get wet. Nature often fights back tho. Condensation (the main cause), a burst pipe, a leaky pump, a careless guest who doesn't understand shower pumps.... On the plus side, it does take a long time to rust a baseplate, and none of my boats have ever sunk from soggy bilges. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukdiggerboy Posted September 2, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 i started up the bow and said well just do this but to do this we need to do that before you knew it im stood on the deck and said sod it its all coming out lol i have since discovered it has a new 6mm baseplate so happy days the only thing i can find against it is the GRP roof but i think we have that in hand aswell going to reseat it next job? oh and the air cooled lister? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sabcat Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 I wouldn't put felt down on the floor myself. Personally I'd get it painted and put your ballast down (not sure what you're going to use, engineering brick seconds are a good option though) rested on old cambelts so they're off the floor and there's air flow down there. oh and the air cooled lister? Some people love air cooled Listers, some people think they're bloody awful. Personally I bloody love em. Which one you got? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Southern Star Posted September 2, 2014 Report Share Posted September 2, 2014 I've got to say, I'm loving this thread, watching the work progressing, and I love the before and after photos of the Fizzie! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukdiggerboy Posted September 3, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 3, 2014 three cylinder lister i quite like it me self as it goes i have had many a dumper with them in as for the roofing felf it is melted to the floorpan and is solid tar for flat roofs, not slaters felt which would go soggy in no time,there is no way for the water to get between the felt and the metal for it to rust , i am going to use block paving bricks for ballast as i have them and they are as dense as the crazy paving rubish we removed and ill be able to pack it tighter?. Gary Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bod Posted September 4, 2014 Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 Just make sure there is an air gap under the slabs. Helps keep everything dry down there, and should the worst happen and water does get in, then there is a way for it to be got out. Another good reason for an air gap, fridges work much better if cool air from this area is blown up, over the fins at the back of the fridge. Bod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zig Zag Posted September 4, 2014 Report Share Posted September 4, 2014 Looking great Keep updating please, can't wait to see it done! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukdiggerboy Posted September 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 thanks bod i have some strips of thin upvc capping somewhere that will do nicely, trying to work out how to sort the low level venting ?and the next job is the engine room clean out and paint the bilges, also the bow section ready for a new water tank the worst bit is going to be taking the grp roof off and resetting but we have ideas for that ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bod Posted September 5, 2014 Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 thanks bod i have some strips of thin upvc capping somewhere that will do nicely, trying to work out how to sort the low level venting ?and the next job is the engine room clean out and paint the bilges, also the bow section ready for a new water tank the worst bit is going to be taking the grp roof off and resetting but we have ideas for that ! Taking the roof off, ever thought of replacing it with a steel one? Would solve all the GRP faults in one go, but the cost will be higher, in the short term, against that, the boat might have better value, certainly easier to sell later on. Low level venting, put vents in the floor where they won't be seen, cupboard bases, etc. Bod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukdiggerboy Posted September 5, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 5, 2014 yep i thought about it then found out how much along with the rest i got to do !!!!!! i do like the look of it as is notplanning on selling her but she will be the buisseness when shes done get that its just how to do it so the engine smells dont come back into the cabin ? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bod Posted September 6, 2014 Report Share Posted September 6, 2014 The engine bilge must be totally separate, with a solid steel bulkhead, no oil or smell can get into the cabin bilge. Bod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukdiggerboy Posted September 7, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 7, 2014 been cleaning all day still not as clean as id like Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukdiggerboy Posted September 10, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 10, 2014 the blocks awaiting to go in and the vactan being applied to the engine bilges Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukdiggerboy Posted September 12, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 12, 2014 first coat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
waterwitch Posted September 13, 2014 Report Share Posted September 13, 2014 Looking good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukdiggerboy Posted September 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 so a bit of an update on this week end we decided to split the roof in order to re seal and clean the gunwales properly it took a bit of time to get the front up but once in a rhythm we managed the other two aswell cleaned and vatan applied the joints are bolted together but have two rubber gaskets which makes for three joints for water to leak through ? we will be reattaching next sat any one have any suggestions to what silicone we use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukdiggerboy Posted September 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 a couple with the rear bulk head removed this will be replaced with steel good clear up needed ? aswell Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
craftycarper Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 a couple with the rear bulk head removed this will be replaced with steel good clear up needed ? aswell . FairPlay to you that's a proper job you are doing there Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
b0atman Posted September 21, 2014 Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 love that your priorities are right first equipment in kettle and tea making bits . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukdiggerboy Posted September 21, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 21, 2014 most inportant lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukdiggerboy Posted September 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2014 (edited) so we have been at it again this weekend time to get the top back on! after loads of rubbing down ,we have decided to put a 2mm strip of cork on the upstand between the fibreglass and steel then a length of 60 x 5mm flat bar to hold it all together. Hopefully will get rid of the nasty ripples that it had before from the bolts in the fibreglass. The joints where mahoooosive, when taken apart there was 2 strips of rubber creating a large gap giving 3 joints to leak? heres some pics see what you think?? Edited September 28, 2014 by ukdiggerboy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phill Posted September 28, 2014 Report Share Posted September 28, 2014 (edited) Read first write second Edited September 28, 2014 by phill Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ukdiggerboy Posted September 28, 2014 Author Report Share Posted September 28, 2014 Read first write second Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Featured Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now