chilligibbon Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Hi, I have just ordered some Polyvine pre tinted medium oak scumble oil, with intention of doing a bit of practice before attempting to re-grain my hatches and doors. Can anyone offer any tips on technique and what is most suitable to use as a base coat? Thanks Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ray T Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 (edited) The above may be useful. For base coat I have used Ratcliffe's No 2 chrome buff http://www.decoratingdirect.co.uk/viewprod/r/RATOS/ NB I just "play" at scumbling I'm sure Messrs Moore, Speight and Edgar will have a more professional point of view. Also: http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=13047&hl=scumbling If you enter "Scumble" in the search box there are lots of threads. Edited July 7, 2014 by Ray T Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chop! Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 (edited) You need some chrome buff linky which is a yellowish undercoat first, then paint over your oak or whatever colour scumble, you can use an old stiff bristled brush and then, if you have no specialist tools, some scrunched-up tin foil or some cellophane twisted here and there to produce a knot effect (remember to swoop the brush around the knot to replicate the way the grain curves around the knot normally) I am no expert, I did use scumble to reproduce a burr walnut effect on my bubblecar's dash about 20 years ago. A few weeks ago I used some old scumble, that I found in Christina, to restore the very shabby lid of an old Captain's chest we're using in Freyja. Before (looking down through the side hatch) :- And after :- I hope this helps you and that you successfully sort your doors out, look forward to seeing the finished project Edited July 7, 2014 by Chop! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Schweizer Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 (edited) I have never used the official Ratcliffe's scumble base coat. Many years ago, Ron Hough told me that the boat dock painters used a light canary yellow colour, and that any decent domestic spirit based matt paint would be OK, and that is what I use. It produces a far more lively colour than the Ratcliffe's base coat. Edited July 7, 2014 by David Schweizer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave moore Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Hi. I use a chrome yellow undercoat with light oak scumble oil, well thinned from the tin. I've always thought that the chrome buff was a bit insipid. When varnished, my graining gives the impression that the oil lamp is lit, before it is. Polyvine I've used before, though not recently. I'm graining out a back cabin later this week at Norton Canes, if you are local you are welcome to visit and see what happens. Cheers Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
David Mack Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 A while back there was a lot of worry about the scumble changing from oil-based to water-based. But that issue has gone very quiet since. How are people getting on with the new stuff? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dave moore Posted July 7, 2014 Report Share Posted July 7, 2014 Hi David Have yet to use the water based stuff, other painters give varied responses, some positive, but more negative. The Polyvine oil based scumble is the only option for a none water based product. It needs tinting with the appropriate colourant, again supplied by Polyvine. To the OP..... Advice..... Thin the scumble oil to an almost watery consistency, a little goes a long way. Push it about into corners, then brush it out in the direction you want the grain to go. Use graining combs to add woodiness, but beware over using the knotting rubbers flagged up earlier. They can produce interesting results,,but most tyros tend to produce knotty timber that no self respecting joiner would use. The late Chris Lloyd called the effect...." Rifle targets holding hands" ...just what you need to avoid! Happy to help further Dave Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chilligibbon Posted July 8, 2014 Author Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 hi, Thanks for all the advice, think I got plenty to work with, hoping to have my first attempt this weekend. Struggling to find a supplier of ratcliffe's base coat - any one know of any suppliers? Thanks Chris Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
andywatson Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 (edited) If you can't get Ratcliffe's base coat get an undercoat mixed to NCIS code 05 30 G90Y, which is pretty close, at any decent paint depot. Alternatively you can use Crown Macpherson's B9811N Halo. I've used Polyvine mid oak recently to do a planked roof which the "customer" was very pleased with. It was easy enough to work with although I still prefer the Ratcliffes oil based which I am used to. I have a stash of it. -Don't overdo it with the rocker (top item in Ray T's post). -Practice and learn from your mistakes on a test piece or pieces first. -When you are doing "oak" have a play with putting in some shakes with a bit of cork or rubber. When you get confident you can have some good fun graining. Edited July 8, 2014 by andywatson Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Phil Speight Posted July 8, 2014 Report Share Posted July 8, 2014 Here`s a tip. Buy a knotting rubber. Play with it to your hearts content on a practice board. Throw it away. Please ! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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