Looking for a lh150 gearbox

[gdjenkinsm]

Anyone knows where or who can have a lh150 gearbox for sale in working order!??

My one is dead and i give up trying to make it go. The cone is gone and i prefer to replace the gearbox and give my one to anyone happy to fix it! Not have enough time for that.

Thanks lot

Regards

[RLWP]

Contact me via my website: www.primrose-engineering.co.uk

 

Richard

Edited March 6, 2014 by RLWP

[mayalld]

Anyone knows where or who can have a lh150 gearbox for sale in working order!??

My one is dead and i give up trying to make it go. The cone is gone and i prefer to replace the gearbox and give my one to anyone happy to fix it! Not have enough time for that.

Thanks lot

Regards

Replacing the cone can be done in an afternoon by an amateur

[gdjenkinsm]

Hi, thanks for the help. If the cone needs replacing is not there a big posibility that a few more parts will also need replacing?? I see if i can find a second hand one if not im not gonna have another choice than opening it and replacing what ever needs.. Thanks

[bizzard]

Hi, thanks for the help. If the cone needs replacing is not there a big posibility that a few more parts will also need replacing?? I see if i can find a second hand one if not im not gonna have another choice than opening it and replacing what ever needs.. Thanks

I would be wise to renew the astern brake band which also has a friction lining plus gaskets and seals at the same time.

[Barry]

Hi, thanks for the help. If the cone needs replacing is not there a big posibility that a few more parts will also need replacing?? I see if i can find a second hand one if not im not gonna have another choice than opening it and replacing what ever needs.. Thanks

 

Did you contact Richard at Primrose Engineering?

 

If you didn't he's not a shyster scamming for business. He comes highly recommended and has helped a lot of forum members with their gearboxes

[RLWP]

You can find out more about the hydraulic box here: http://www.canalworld.net/forums/index.php?showtopic=51130&hl=lh150

 

I would be replacing the cone and the reduction box output shaft seals as a minimum. Check the reverse band while you are in there, the bearings and the seal between the main and reduction box

 

Most important - take a lot of care putting the box back onto the adapter. The big risk is getting the oil pump gear out of mesh with the drive gear. If you do, it will rotate about a quarter of a turn, then shear off the pump spindle.

 

Richard

[gdjenkinsm]

No I haven't contact him yet but I got in the web side and took the phone number so I will give him a call as soon as possible. A few month ago when I fitted the engine in the boat i replaced all the bearings and two seals in the reduction box because where totally gone.. Thats way I imagine if I take it all apart I will have a few more things than only the cone to replace.. Also i got the work shop manual for it if in case i need to strip it apart with some advices checks and tests I' ve done on it with no good resold.. Well thanks again I will keep inform of how im getting along with it!!

[RLWP]

If you've done the reduction box, that should cover most of your troubles. In the main box it will be the cone and/or the reverse band.

 

Richard

[mayalld]

Hi, thanks for the help. If the cone needs replacing is not there a big posibility that a few more parts will also need replacing?? I see if i can find a second hand one if not im not gonna have another choice than opening it and replacing what ever needs.. Thanks

Possibly the brake band.

 

The circlip that holds the cone on the shaft should be replaced and you will want a new paper gasket to mate it to the bell housing adaptor plus blue hylomar.

 

The only tricky parts are;

 

1) as already mentioned, not getting the oil pump in mesh when replacing the box.

2) fracturing the sump dip tube on the oil pump when removing or replacing the oil pump.

 

Do you have the lister manual?

[gdjenkinsm]

sorry I only came here to ask for help... well finally i token the gearbox a part.. but I cant take out the reverse shaft the one thas got the interclutch cone assembly etc..

dose it came off all together?? or I need to take the 4 circlips of and dismantle from the back takeing the short pinions etc???

i removed all the reduction box even the back cover but still cant manage to dismantle the reverse shaft...

also the oil pump doesnt whant to came off.. but because sims like is so delicate left it there having extra care.

 

any advise would be very apreciate thanks a hell of a lot again!!

gerard

[RLWP]

Oil pump. Take the central nut off, pull off the gear, cut the wire locking, take out the two screws from the pipe, undo the union at the top, take off the pipe, remove the two bolts, take out the pump

 

Clutch pack. Remove the nut on the output shaft, pull the pinion and bearing inner. Take out the woodruff key. On the sides of the box remove the blanking nuts and pull out the pivot pins. At the front, undo and remove the bolts on the reverse brake band, pull out the bottom pin ( take the split pin out first), fiddle the reverse band out. The whole clutch pack should then come out.

 

Removing the circlips at the front will do nothing, the shafts for the reverse pinions go out the back when the cone clutch is removed

 

Richard

Edited March 16, 2014 by RLWP

[gdjenkinsm]

thanks rechard!!

 

the reverse break band I remove it easely also the pivot pins from the sides have been remove and frome the reduction box side is all empty but the cluck pack doesnt whant to come out... I heated with a gun and spray cold liquid in to the shaft but still dosnt came out.. can I bangit with a wood hamer?? it may be stuck with the bearing??

 

great the oil pump ill do this tomorrow morning but in the manual book I got says it comes all together just caking the to bolts off...

 

thanks alot again!!!

 

gerard

[RLWP]

Take the pump off to protect the pump spindle. With the reverse band out, the pivot pins removed and everything off the back of the shaft, yes you can drift the shaft out of the bearing

 

Richard

[gdjenkinsm]

Richard! Thanks lot for the advise!! I have dismantled it perfectly tomorrow morning im going to get the new parts so i can assemble it fastest i can, ill keep you inform

Only one more advise! Definitely the inner cluch cone needs replacing but do you think is a good idea to take with me the clutch and break band springs to check they are allright or they will be ok?

 

Thanks again

Gerard

[RLWP]

The springs are generally OK.

 

When you put it back together, you'll find you can't get the woodruff key back into the shaft at the back of the box. Take the screw out of the forward gear piston cover (triangular thing with three bolts on the back of the box. Take one of the cover screws and screw it into the middle of the cover until the piston is pushed all the way in. You should then be able to push the shaft back far enough to get the woodruff key in. Leave the bolt in until you have the nut back on the shaft

 

When you fit the gearbox, leave the reduction box off. You need to be VERY, VERY, FUSSY about getting the oil pump gears engaged. If you use the decompression levers on the engine, you can use the nut on the gearbox output shaft to turn the engine over, listening to hear if the pump gear is engaged. You should be able to push the gearbox up to the adapter without having to pull it up with the bolts

 

Get it wrong and the pump shaft shears off, and you don't get neutral or reverse

 

Richard

[gdjenkinsm]

Nice one !! Sure i will treat it like girlfriend is it a good idea to where the gearbox screws go get longer ones so I have a easier way to assemble it all together?? How can i check that the oil pump piñon is engage properly?? If i put the finger in the oil hole on the top of the box i may fill the air pushing if turning the engine by hand ??

Thanks again

 

Gerard

[RLWP]

Engaging the gear is tricky, but not impossible. You won't need long bolts, the gearbox will be hanging on the input shaft (bolted to the flywheel). If you get the gear nearly engaged an turn the engine over by hand, you'll hear the gears rubbing together. When you get it right, you wont

 

Be fussy and persistent and you'll be fine. Just don't be tempted to pull it all together with bolts before you are more or less confident the gear is engaged. As I said, you should be able to push the gearbox into place on the adapter

 

Richard

[gdjenkinsm]

Thanks a lot!! You gays are great!! Lucky to fine this forum i let you know how im getting along

 

Regards

Gerard

[gdjenkinsm]

Good morning richard, My gearbox is back in the boat and works fantastically !! Im so happy you guy cant know .

I fitted a new clatch cone and a brake band. Well thanks again I'm going to get ready I'm going crusing !!

[Grace and Favour]

Brilliant!

 

It's threads such as this that exemplify one of the values of CWDF

 

 

Thanks to everyone that helped the OP

[mayalld]

Good morning richard, My gearbox is back in the boat and works fantastically !! Im so happy you guy cant know .

I fitted a new clatch cone and a brake band. Well thanks again I'm going to get ready I'm going crusing !!

 

Nothing like the feeling of having fixed something when you thought it was beyond your capabilities.

[gdjenkinsm]

hi everyone !! im back for some new questions i have been cruising all day yesterday and I found out the thottle is now working fine... so I change my clothes and open the back deck cober and the toolbox again..

I disconect the speed control cable. by hand i turn the lever and look like didn't whant to rev properly.. after adjusting it a bit now it looks ok but the problem is that sudently jumps of again.. any one know how does the speed control works??

sound like is got a spring but also i was thinking inside must be some kind of pinon n??

 

anyone has experiece something like this before??

 

thanks again

gerard